SW Face Liberty Cap Free by Lucho Rivera and Cedar Wright

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 3, 2013 - 01:13am PT
Just saw this on Cedar's Twitter Feed:

We sent!!!! The liberty project is no longer a project!!! The southwest face of liverty cap is… http://instagram.com/p/aDzDqXA6Lk/

Mtnfly

Trad climber
El Segundo
Jun 3, 2013 - 01:28am PT
Just saw on ESPN
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Jun 3, 2013 - 07:47am PT
Great photo.
climber bob

Social climber
maine
Jun 3, 2013 - 07:56am PT
great job!had been a goal of mine..what about the bolts out of the corner? variation?
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Jun 3, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Congrats Lucho and Ceedy. Well done!!
bpope

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Jun 3, 2013 - 11:51am PT
Luke's been busy up there too: http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/06/scaface-liberty-cap-first-free-attempt/
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jun 3, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
right on!
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Jun 3, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
I have no idea what this means, but like it: "Grade somewhere between 1980s 12c and modern 13a"
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Jun 3, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
^^^Isn't 13a just "athletic 12c"? ;-)


well done on the send!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jun 3, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
I am pretty sure Luke freed his line on that face a few weeks earlier than them (saw his facebook post about it). Even though it doesn't really matter, it is awesome that both of them freed something on that face!
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jun 3, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
As far as I know Lucho and Cedar freed parts of Bad Moon Rising, and the surrounding routes and then linked into the upper few pitches of the Harding route.

Bad Moon Rising Topo by Mucci

Lucho on the Crack Of God. (Cedar Wright Photo)

I freed Scarface with an asterix on the 8th pitch, which went clean on top rope but not yet on lead. I haven't had the time to get back out there to lead that pitch. Every other pitch on Scarface has been redpointed. I was psyched that Scarface went at 5.12, and only two pitches at that grade. I believe Bad Moon Rising is 5.13- with at least two pitches at that grade.

Here is a topo for the free Scarface:


Scarface follows splitter cracks through the huge rock scar on the left side of liberty cap. The start and finish are a little on the dirty side.

More details can be found in bPope's link above.

Enjoy!

 Luke

Edit: corrected per Mucci and Munge. Guess it was just parts of Bad Moon Rising.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 3, 2013 - 06:56pm PT
I think Lucho and Cedar were on a couple lines, not just Bad Moon.

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 4, 2013 - 01:04am PT
Lucho and Cedars route is a unique blend of the best that liberty cap has to offer.

A very proud line that took vision to connect.



Luke, started much earlier in the year on Scarface. Payed for his visits in mileage while the mist trail was closed. His dedication to the route and his personal free attempt has been a proud endeavor. I am psyched he wants to go back and wish him the best.


Cheers to you Luke, Lucho, Cedar and the many others..






Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 4, 2013 - 10:16am PT
Wonder which route? The SW Face (Named) route seems unlikely cause the bathook ladder (filled later with rivets I think) was pretty blank

Congrats!

Karl
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Jun 4, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
I’d love for people to get on this route, but do ask that people do not try to red-point or onsight the 8th pitch. I would still like the chance to do the first lead of that pitch.

Thought this was an odd request. Shouldn't you keep it quiet until you freed it or just say "have at it". Seems strange to say "climb it, but not too well".
TeleRoss

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
Sick send Lucho and Cedar!
And not to nitpick about the claimed ffa of Scarface
...but it seems weird to claim a free ascent when one of the pitches hasn't been led free no?
Seems like Scarface has yet to see a free ascent.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Jun 4, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Chill/TeleRoss.

You are both have good points. I wasn't going to post up about Scarface on Supertopo yet, but some of my friends already did since I spent a good chunk of the winter/spring up on Liberty Cap. I just wanted to fill in details on what happened.

I'm a fan of being out in the open with information, and think that the community at large should in-turn give some lee-way. I fully plan on going back to lead the 8th pitch. That dihedral is super cool and I just have not had the fitness or time to do it. I'm just a weekend warrior.

One point of talking about Scarface is to get more people to go climb it. Sure it hasn't seen a perfect free ascent, but it can be free climbed. It is not only an aid route. From what I hear a good amount of people go to aid climb the SW face route on Liberty Cap. Scarface has the same approach, and easier hauling (since you don't have to deal with the ramp. I would think that many parties could do the route in a day as an 5.10 C2 aid climb. It is a very fun route but you do need a portaledge if you want to spend the night. You could bivy at the top of P3 without a ledge, but that is not very high on the route.

The fact that it took seven years for the second ascent is CRAZY. It is not a hard aid route, especially if you can climb 5.10+ and take a few of the free climbing variations. I doubt it is harder than C2. The rock on the route is very good in the middle. There are a few loose sections, but I would just say this adds to an "alpine" like experience. The hike is super doable, especially since you can filter water from the falls.

I asked for people to not try to go red-point the 8th pitch since I put a bunch of work into cleaning up the route and would like to have some type of credit. I realize some people might not understand this but I don't think it is such a strange thing to ask. In cragging terms think of it as a new cliff. I cleaned and red-pointed 11 out of 12 of the pitches, but haven't sent the last one, so I red tagged it. All the other pitches are fun and "open".

If you want to go burn me off and do the route, I can't stop you or anyone else. I never could, even when I was actively working and cleaning the route. I just figure by putting out more information then I'm more likely to have my wishes respected than staying mum.

 Luke
TeleRoss

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Yeah the free scarface looks like a sweet climb for sure!Kudos on all the hard work you have put in...now hurry up and send so the rest of us can get on it. ;)
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Jun 5, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
bbst
lucho

Trad climber
California
Jun 5, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
As far as I'm concerned Luke free climbed Liberty Cap before Cedar and I. Its a ton of work to establish a new route, at times just as much work to just go and attempt to free climb a route thats only been aided. I give Luke much respect for the hard work he put in on his free route and it would be nothing less of shady and selfish if someone went and free climbed his route before he finishes it. Nice work Luke! You inspired me to get up there!

Now I'm gonna go climb your route near Basket Dome cause it looks sick and its hot as hell in the Valley.
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