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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 31, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
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Carry cable and swager - repair on lead. [But see below]
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 31, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
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I've been tempted to follow your suggestion, Clint, but the salesperson at the hardware store told me that the repair would be rather weak. Then again, in the good old days, we had only one option for RURPs -- 1/2" webbing.
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 31, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#nicopress-sleeve-crimpers/=mzrwhd
I have not done such a repair on a climb myself,
but I wished I had something like this when doing the Shield back in the day (same problem with fixed RURPs and bad cables/slings).
I threaded one with the cable from an RP nut.
You would probably want to pre-solder the tip of the cable you are threading, to make sure it doesn't fray and prevent the threading.
Maybe also pre-bend the tip to about 90 degrees, to help with the threading.
Would also want a hemostat (very thin needle nose pliers) to grab the cable on the far side when threading.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hemostats/=mzrykb
Probably more practical to thread with a thin rivet hanger cable on lead, then have the follower do the quality repair with the swager. Although sometimes the thin rivet hanger may not fit.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 31, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
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Maybe make a bunch of swagged loops on a small quick-links then you don't have to haul all that crap and mess with it on a wall?
EDIT Not to say that Clint isn't good with the swagger - he taught me how to fix cams.
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Matt's
climber
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May 31, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
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what about a maillon rapide? would that fit through the hole?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 31, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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There is another fastener similar to the kerney, the "saddle clip":
http://www.mcmaster.com/#single-saddle-clips/=mzscrl
They are more bulky than a swage, and I believe not as strong. Using 2 would be wise. Not sure how strong they are. Probably stronger than a kerney?
They just avoid the expense/weight of a swaging tool.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 31, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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what about a maillon rapide? would that fit through the hole? No chance on a RURP, especially when semi-buried in a groove.
(Might be work for a Pecker, though, if the hole fits a tiny quicklink; would have to check the strength of such a tiny item).
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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May 31, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
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Clint's info is good, the Hemostats could become invaluable (at the weight) when trying to thread new wire on the lead.
I am with Mucci all the way on his suggestions.
I would redo with 7 stinks, seven by 19.
Re: Urging BD and other large manufacturers to beef up their cable size.
We all know that any rope, nylon or steel wire, will 'break at the bend' 90% of the time.
As soon as I saw RURPs and nuts fitted from the factory with wire cable and heard the rationale of why...
(because they often become fixed)
I immediately thought: "Well that's lame, they have a great idea but they jumped off the horse mid stream"
The cable should preferable be stainless and for Gahd sakes THIMBLES !
Look at where and why the wire breaks !
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 31, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
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When RURPs first appeared they were sans cable.
I took mine to Neptunes and swedged them with thick cables.
Then a couple of years later I showed them to Yvon and asked him why he didn't do it.
He said they had thought about it, but then criticized mine for their weight.
A year later they came out with cable loops, but I was immediately dismayed.
Hey, would anybody pay some decent bucks to Karen Kor if I sold some of them?
I have some CMI crack tacks that are also in excellent shape, and a swedger that I can cable them with if the buyer wants.
PM me.
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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
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