Ideas for Replacing broken cables on RURPS, peckers, pitons

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - May 31, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
I just climbed Zodiac and there were 5 or so fixed rurps/peckers with either broken cables or cables that were about the break.

First off, a rant:
Black Diamond PLEASE STOP USING #2 CABLE. #3 cable is way more durable and stronger. I can't think of a single reason to use #2 cable. So until BD gets the message, anyone out there offering services for replacing #2 cables with #3? Moses?

Back to the topic:
Right now the options seems to be: thin 2mm or 3mm accessory cord or cutting a 1/2 piece of webbing at a very steep angle like below. Ideas?

Cutting half-inch webbing at an angle so that it will thread through a...
Cutting half-inch webbing at an angle so that it will thread through a broken piton
Credit: Chris McNamara
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
May 31, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
take some cable loops and kerneys (sp?) little nut-clamps for cable and wiring.Replace them as needed.. maybe...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Carry cable and swager - repair on lead. [But see below]
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 31, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
I've been tempted to follow your suggestion, Clint, but the salesperson at the hardware store told me that the repair would be rather weak. Then again, in the good old days, we had only one option for RURPs -- 1/2" webbing.

John
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
Ron and Clint, links to the device you are talking about? Used it?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2013 - 02:07pm PT


http://www.mcmaster.com/#nicopress-sleeve-crimpers/=mzrwhd

I have not done such a repair on a climb myself,
but I wished I had something like this when doing the Shield back in the day (same problem with fixed RURPs and bad cables/slings).
I threaded one with the cable from an RP nut.

You would probably want to pre-solder the tip of the cable you are threading, to make sure it doesn't fray and prevent the threading.
Maybe also pre-bend the tip to about 90 degrees, to help with the threading.

Would also want a hemostat (very thin needle nose pliers) to grab the cable on the far side when threading.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hemostats/=mzrykb

Probably more practical to thread with a thin rivet hanger cable on lead, then have the follower do the quality repair with the swager. Although sometimes the thin rivet hanger may not fit.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
May 31, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Maybe make a bunch of swagged loops on a small quick-links then you don't have to haul all that crap and mess with it on a wall?

EDIT Not to say that Clint isn't good with the swagger - he taught me how to fix cams.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
May 31, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
Chris,, kerneys(sp?) are made to very small sizes and they are a nut on a dog eared spine that you can pass two ends of the cable through then tighten down clamping the two ends tightly together . They are sold at most all hardware stores in the electrical dept. Use some bitd. will accomodate larger sizes of cables..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
May 31, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson


heres a "kerney which is incorrect spelling.. ^^^this one is the size ive used on cable loops before.
Matt's

climber
May 31, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
what about a maillon rapide? would that fit through the hole?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
There is another fastener similar to the kerney, the "saddle clip":

http://www.mcmaster.com/#single-saddle-clips/=mzscrl
They are more bulky than a swage, and I believe not as strong. Using 2 would be wise. Not sure how strong they are. Probably stronger than a kerney?
They just avoid the expense/weight of a swaging tool.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 31, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
what about a maillon rapide? would that fit through the hole?
No chance on a RURP, especially when semi-buried in a groove.
(Might be work for a Pecker, though, if the hole fits a tiny quicklink; would have to check the strength of such a tiny item).
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
May 31, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
What Clint said.

What diameter are you calling number one cable and number two cable?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
May 31, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
I re-cable all types of beaks.

1/8th"/#3 on All Tomahawks and BD Peckers. Copper swages.

Bunch of falls logged on my swage work.

Anybody need that done, let me know.



As to handling these issues on route...

I would replace them with #2 Galvanized 7x16, mostly due to the size of the crimping tool needed. You can get a 3/32" crimper that is a user friendly size and would fit on the rack if needed.

http://www.google.com/search?q=nicopress+3/32%22&rlz=1T4ADRA_enUS488US489&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=yBupUYD9H-OrjAKvsIHgAQ&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAQ&biw=1522&bih=643#facrc=_&imgrc=71N_jrsvlEG-sM%3A%3Bk9DSFdfwzeNa1M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.sweeney-special-effects.com%252FPphotos%252F33%252520VC%252520VG%252520Nicopress-wide.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.sweeney-special-effects.com%252Fspecial_effects_catalog.php%253FUS-NICO-VCVG%3B461%3B346

A small, pre cut cable kit, few swages, etc... too easy.




TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
May 31, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Clint's info is good, the Hemostats could become invaluable (at the weight) when trying to thread new wire on the lead.

I am with Mucci all the way on his suggestions.
I would redo with 7 stinks, seven by 19.

Re: Urging BD and other large manufacturers to beef up their cable size.
We all know that any rope, nylon or steel wire, will 'break at the bend' 90% of the time.

As soon as I saw RURPs and nuts fitted from the factory with wire cable and heard the rationale of why...
(because they often become fixed)

I immediately thought: "Well that's lame, they have a great idea but they jumped off the horse mid stream"

The cable should preferable be stainless and for Gahd sakes THIMBLES !
Look at where and why the wire breaks !

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
great stuff!

#2 cable is cable used on #2 copperheads. #3 is cable used on #3 copperheads etc

Mysterious that BD (and all manufacturers) make the cables bigger and stronger as the nuts/stoppers get bigger... but just seemed to overlook that principle when making RURPs and Peckers

I think mucci has the thickness correct above ^^
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
May 31, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
smaller cable is Cheaper....

We always actually use sizes in rigging like 3/32, 1/8, 5/32.

I'd say 1/8 is good but if it's solid placement and if you could thread 5/32 that would be better.

Bringing a tool up there would be a lot of work but a big public service.

Probably the best thing to do is try to remove the old mashed up rurp or whatever...
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 31, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
When RURPs first appeared they were sans cable.

I took mine to Neptunes and swedged them with thick cables.


Then a couple of years later I showed them to Yvon and asked him why he didn't do it.
He said they had thought about it, but then criticized mine for their weight.

A year later they came out with cable loops, but I was immediately dismayed.


Hey, would anybody pay some decent bucks to Karen Kor if I sold some of them?
I have some CMI crack tacks that are also in excellent shape, and a swedger that I can cable them with if the buyer wants.

PM me.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 4, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
TFPU
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