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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 22, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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I've been out twice in past 2 weeks.
The area is open much earlier than usual and in prime condition before it gets to warm. Ideal condition is low 80's in Sac, that way sun or shade works. If hotter get there early. Place is almost always devoid of climbers.
Some of the best cracks in the Tahoe area and the Enchanted Pools are less than 1/4 mile away
Essence 11+ amazing. sustained. Full Value. 5 star
Velvet Gloves great 10b/c
Ultraviolet 11b airy and a challenging lead
The Prow 140 foot 10a Super fun
Ahh Nuts 13a 4 star crack Prob seen 2 ascents. Where are the hard men?
The Acrobat. 12a/b 80 feet and overhangs prob 15'!. One of the best sport climbs in Tahoe
Just sayin :)
a
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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May 24, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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piccsssss
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 24, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
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Ah Nuts sure looks compelling...
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 24, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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photos needed...
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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May 25, 2013 - 12:06am PT
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What's the colorful face out right a ways, across a thicket. Pretty fun, but hard.
I don't know names, but if those are all in that same alcove, there are way more routes around L.
Awesome place, especially when it has been cold and the skeeters ain't buggin!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 25, 2013 - 04:25am PT
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Yeah, we need pics! I used to climb there quite a bit, more than 20 years ago, had a great time. I don't know some of those routes, and I'm pretty curious, especially about the very overhanging sport climb. I recall there was a very overhanging alcove, at the time I didn't see and good free line there, maybe that's where it is?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 25, 2013 - 06:56am PT
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Here are some routes I know about.
A 5.8 a ways L of Prow, fun move over roof, then face, short
Ah Nuts is out of view, just L of Prow
B Prow, 5.9
C Fin, 11c (1 move) or 10b A1
D crack, 10c or d (?)
E face, 10b or so (?)
F short face, 12a
G Spanish Flamethrower, 11c
all these routes are certainly worth doing. Look out for mosquitos! Morning shade, late afternoon can be very pleasant as the sun is going down.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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May 25, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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The only really steep thing I saw there was a bolted line right of the main alcove. The steep part was juggy, the hardness came just before the steepness. Felt easy 12 to me, definitely worth doing.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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more pics
to the left of ahh nuts. i'm sure there's prolly more anchors than i found
the main wall, spectrum tower, black wall and fun stuff on the other side of the drainage
close up of the main wall and the spectrum tower
nothing mentioned in any of the guides about this side of that drainage, but i see bolts on the arete
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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thanks clint, but i was sure not nice to the person who said it was going to be a zoo since i posted those pix lol, :-)O yes internet climbers, you got to love them, happy frida/happy climbing mike a.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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people worry about i getting crowded from a post on the internet is crazy. it's in the guidebook. in fact, this is one of the few cases where the supertopo book has more route info than you can find online.
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blr
climber
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Jul 13, 2015 - 11:38am PT
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Awesome area! Some of the cracks are getting pretty mossy and vegetated though... might want to bring a brush and rap in first before leading. Some very stout (and good) face climbs too. Are The Fin and Oil Slick really just 5.11?
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