Tollhouse Rock rockfall last week

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Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
I've just received some calls that there has been a large rock fall across the Tollhouse Traverse area that has caused siginificant damage particularly to large trees at the base and had filled the traverse with debris.
I plan to scout it out from the top shortly, however it appears that there is still some loose material that might cut loose. Probably best to stay clear of the western side for a while until things stabilize allowing future rockfall potential to be asessed.

Dwight
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
May 21, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
Crazy! Thanks for the update, please let us know when you check it out. I was thinking of doing some early morning laps later this week, but now now!

I can't think of what would exfoliate above the TT? Maybe part of the dihedral, something up by cap rocks, or some of the chunks by the end of hang em high/free and easy?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 21, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Photos too if you get the chance.


edit: never mind, http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1893156&tn=40

Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 01:31am PT
Photos on tollhouse faceoff 2012...one big mo, fo boulder...yikes. luckily an isolated event...I hope...d.
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 01:34am PT
... and mr. Limp...do you ever clip to anything anyway...watch for loose stuff and be safe...I like you dude...d.
micronut

Trad climber
May 22, 2013 - 11:05am PT
The boulder must have been this one. The meatball in the upper left hand of the frame. Between the top out tree and the big square block to the right. Spooky.

Credit: micronut

Credit: micronut
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 22, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
There definitely appears to be some tomfoolery. That thing doesn't look like it would be sent without help but who knows.

D, I am in to help with clean up. Let me know. I emailed you about bolts I owed you and some betta.

If I can get up there before a clean up I am thinking of posting a sign at the base to warn those that haven't got the news.

Glad no one was hurt!
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
I'll be getting this around and will post the parking area as well thi...
I'll be getting this around and will post the parking area as well this evening
Credit: Flydude
hairyapeman

Trad climber
Fres-yes
May 22, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
I bet some drunk idiots pushed it! Crazy. Will cancel my plans for taking rookies up to do the traverse until the fall I suppose. Keep us informed.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
May 22, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
That's a purty flyer! Thanks for taking the time.

I'd bet on a car jack and drunk guys too...
CKR

climber
May 22, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
Apologies for not posting sooner. We climbed the traverse last week and noticed the rockfall. Aside from what has already been said, the hangers on the traverse appeared to be in good shape.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 23, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
Thanks for the update on the Traverse. If drunks and a car jack were the culprits, as I and others suspect, it won't be the first time drunks have messed with Fresno area climbing. Little Table Mountain used to be accessible to climbers by simply asking the landowners, the Urrutias, for permission. They never refused me.

Unfortunately, the road behind the cliff became a favorite hangout for the scourge of the foothills -- teenage drunks with rifles -- and the Urrutias convinced Madera County to abandon the right of way for the back road, so it is now entirely private, locked, and no one can get there legally any more.

I wish they would still let climbers on the land, and I'm not sure why they won't, but having heard bullets whiz by in the area where I was climbing, and hearing the laughter of the morons doing the shooting, I can understand why the landowners simply opted out of public use of their land. I know if I ever caught the guys shooting near me, my climbing rope and a handy oak tree may have been put to good use.

John
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
May 23, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
first thing I thought was it was a trundle.

maybe rock should have taken out the unneeded retro bolts on the traverse route.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 23, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
What's the story behind all those bolts on the Traverse route, anyway?

Guide bolts?

Put in to reduce Gumby traffic Jams?

Wtf? I wrote a TR about doing that route, a couple months ago. I didn't mouth off about the bolts in that story. As a visitor, I think its poor form to criticize something like those bolts without knowing the back story. Not that I'd be inclined to criticize anyway, I wouldn't.

But I am curious how those bolts got in the rock, and why...

DMT
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
May 23, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
I too have wondered what the story was with those bolts - been there
a while but wtf, right next to a fine crack.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 23, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
Last time I did TT was a simul with a buddy who never climbed it. We were done in like 15 minutes and I didn't really have time to notice the extra bolts while he led. But now that I think back, he didnt use hardly any pro, just quick draws. Silly to place them by a crack.

John, I asked the land owners for permission about 8 yrs ago. The owner simply said they no longer allow climbing. He did say if I wanted to hike around it would be Ok. Not sure about the entire story behind 'No Climbing'. He wouldn't say.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
May 23, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
I've often wondered about those bolts as well. Even though I learned to climb at tollhouse and now live very close I've always felt like DMT, not my place to criticize but always struckme as odd. I don't mind belay bolts but protection bolts next to a crack like that seems out of place for the location as well as the locals. Anyway, im just adding to the discussion those bolts don't haunt me at night and have never had the urge to chop.


-JR
Ol' Skool

Trad climber
Oakhurst, CA
May 24, 2013 - 07:23pm PT
Clearly the work of the BBB

(Beerdrinking Billy Bobs)

The 'tops were great while they lasted. How about Heart of Crack and Oktoberfest Wall?
Flydude

Trad climber
Prather, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2013 - 12:50am PT
So, how about a clean/up and stabilization project.on Saturday June 1. I'm there if you want to joine...d.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
May 27, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Going to try and make it on the 1st. What time are you planning?
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