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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2013 - 01:39am PT
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Yeah, we've talked of hard-for-the-grade routes, but want about the reverse. Easy for the grade.
Here's where you get to boast of walking up things upon which others fight for their lives.
To get things going, I'm going to toss out Marginal. A fantastic and sparsely protected 3-pitch romp up low-angle slab.
I heard that the FA was done in moccasins. No, not the 5.10 type, but the real thing, leather-soled shoes. Cutting edge at the time, now it's a cool way to get your GF believing she's ready for the real grade.
How about it, any others I can use to boost my ego like an inflatable life vest?
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 21, 2013 - 01:41am PT
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I always thought the second pitch of Jamcrack Route was pretty easy for 5.9. Certainly, there are some old school slab routes which seem easier in newer, stickier shoes and also some crack climbs which seem to climb easier with cams.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 21, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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Hmmm - Bruce is right about the second hand/finger crack pitch of Jamcrack. Nutcracker with the Bridwell start (the finger crack) is also pretty straightforward. Central Pillar is varied but not hard 5.9. Commitment is a great introduction to 5.9.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 21, 2013 - 02:19am PT
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Marginal? Easy?
This thread is too tough for me.
good luck
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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May 21, 2013 - 02:32am PT
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Does it have to be rated 5.9 to contend for the easiest 5.9 in yosemite?
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Jon H
Trad climber
Teaneck, NJ
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May 21, 2013 - 03:18am PT
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I seem to recall leading a 5.9 finger crack on the slabs just a 90 second walk to the right from camp 4. I thought it was a piece of cake. Anyone?
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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May 21, 2013 - 05:50am PT
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I concur with the 2nd pitch of Jamcrack. anyone have any comments on the 3rd pitch? I keep saying this but my favorite single pitch is Bridwell Corner on the Rostrum. starts wide and ends with fists. funfun! I wish I still had the pictures.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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May 21, 2013 - 07:01am PT
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Reed Direct pitch 1
Jamcrack pitch 2
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nopantsben
climber
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May 21, 2013 - 07:36am PT
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the easiest 5.9 in the Valley is probably 5.7 or 5.8 in the guidebook.
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Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 21, 2013 - 09:46am PT
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I agree that Grant's Crack (5.9 at Swan Slabs mentioned above) is fairly easy for the grade. It is also really nice!
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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May 21, 2013 - 09:47am PT
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I concur with Grack Marginal, as long as your wearing modern shoes.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 21, 2013 - 10:48am PT
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Marginal in RR Verappes didn't seem too easy, BITD! C4 rubber would make a big difference. Second pitch of Jamcrack is a good candidate.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 21, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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East Buttress Middle Cathedral is pretty smooth sailing. So is Regular Route Fairview, if Tuolumne enters into the scope of the question.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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May 21, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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Commitment
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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May 21, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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After 6
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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May 21, 2013 - 11:18am PT
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Grant's crack, no question.
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Barbarian
climber
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May 21, 2013 - 11:30am PT
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I'll go with Commitment as well. It was my first 5.9, and certainly the easiest I've ever done in the Valley.
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brat
climber
El Portal
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May 21, 2013 - 11:54am PT
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I thought Super Slide was pretty easy for Valley 5.9.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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May 21, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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Anything rated 5.9 in a Supertopo Guide....
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 21, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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In my book, Commitment, definitely.
The Jamcrack may seem mellower to some because it's not very steep or burly, unlike your average Valley crack, but I remember it requiring some footwork and technique on par for an honest 5.9. What I don't get is how some folks feel the first pitch is harder than 5.7.
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