Easiest 5.9 in Yosemite


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Gym climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2013 - 01:39am PT
Yeah, we've talked of hard-for-the-grade routes, but want about the reverse. Easy for the grade.

Here's where you get to boast of walking up things upon which others fight for their lives.

To get things going, I'm going to toss out Marginal. A fantastic and sparsely protected 3-pitch romp up low-angle slab.

I heard that the FA was done in moccasins. No, not the 5.10 type, but the real thing, leather-soled shoes. Cutting edge at the time, now it's a cool way to get your GF believing she's ready for the real grade.

How about it, any others I can use to boost my ego like an inflatable life vest?

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 21, 2013 - 01:41am PT
I always thought the second pitch of Jamcrack Route was pretty easy for 5.9. Certainly, there are some old school slab routes which seem easier in newer, stickier shoes and also some crack climbs which seem to climb easier with cams.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 21, 2013 - 02:12am PT
Hmmm - Bruce is right about the second hand/finger crack pitch of Jamcrack. Nutcracker with the Bridwell start (the finger crack) is also pretty straightforward. Central Pillar is varied but not hard 5.9. Commitment is a great introduction to 5.9.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
May 21, 2013 - 02:19am PT
Marginal? Easy?

This thread is too tough for me.

good luck

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
May 21, 2013 - 02:32am PT
Does it have to be rated 5.9 to contend for the easiest 5.9 in yosemite?
Jon H

Trad climber
Teaneck, NJ
May 21, 2013 - 03:18am PT
I seem to recall leading a 5.9 finger crack on the slabs just a 90 second walk to the right from camp 4. I thought it was a piece of cake. Anyone?

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
May 21, 2013 - 05:50am PT
I concur with the 2nd pitch of Jamcrack. anyone have any comments on the 3rd pitch? I keep saying this but my favorite single pitch is Bridwell Corner on the Rostrum. starts wide and ends with fists. funfun! I wish I still had the pictures.

Trad climber
Washington DC
May 21, 2013 - 07:01am PT
Reed Direct pitch 1
Jamcrack pitch 2

May 21, 2013 - 07:36am PT
the easiest 5.9 in the Valley is probably 5.7 or 5.8 in the guidebook.

San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2013 - 09:46am PT
I agree that Grant's Crack (5.9 at Swan Slabs mentioned above) is fairly easy for the grade. It is also really nice!

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
May 21, 2013 - 09:47am PT
I concur with Grack Marginal, as long as your wearing modern shoes.

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 21, 2013 - 09:57am PT
I've got a better question:

What's the easiest easy route in Yosemite?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 21, 2013 - 10:05am PT

Ahwahnee Sunday Brunch when someone else is paying?


Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 21, 2013 - 10:16am PT
That's not bad at all, Dingus.

But I'm rather partial to the Tenaya Layback.

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
May 21, 2013 - 10:31am PT
I guess no one is going to agree with me if I say La Cosita Right, eh?

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 21, 2013 - 10:48am PT
Marginal in RR Verappes didn't seem too easy, BITD! C4 rubber would make a big difference. Second pitch of Jamcrack is a good candidate.

May 21, 2013 - 10:53am PT
East Buttress Middle Cathedral is pretty smooth sailing. So is Regular Route Fairview, if Tuolumne enters into the scope of the question.

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
May 21, 2013 - 10:53am PT

May 21, 2013 - 10:54am PT
Lena's Lieback?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
May 21, 2013 - 10:58am PT
They were the best of 9s, they were the worst of 9s.


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