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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2013 - 05:20am PT
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Curious,
Anyone here dealt with bolts in very cold climates. Moving to Mongolia and the locals have asked me to help replace some bolts and possibly bolts some new sport routes. Belays at the top of crack routes on formations. I haven't heard of such things, but....
Winter temperatures hover around -30 degrees. While I doubt it, does such a cold temperature cause issues for stainless hardware placed in granite?
Expansion bolts most likely:
Glue In possibly:
Cheers and thanks ahead of time.
Eman
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 16, 2013 - 06:02am PT
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I don't know about bolts but I'm glad you made it to Mongolia - with the dogs I hope.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 16, 2013 - 06:31am PT
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no issues here in the northeaster USA with SS wedge bolts, 5 piece and glue in bolts as long the rock is good.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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May 16, 2013 - 06:55am PT
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The temperature at which a metal changes from being ductile to brittle is called the Ductile Brittle Transition Temperature. For austenitic stainless steels like 304 or 316 there is effectively no DBTT and they become stronger, for 2205 it is around -50°C which may not concern the average sport climber:-)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 16, 2013 - 09:31am PT
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It gets that cold in Vedauwoo, the bolts are mostly still there.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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May 16, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
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No probs with the SS bolts. I would read the fine print on the glue/epoxy and see what the low end temp is for it to set properly.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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May 16, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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No problem here in SW Montana (similar to Mongolia, I've heard) with cold temps and bolt/hanger issues--and we hit -20f at least once a year, every year...
Low humidity helps, I reckon
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2013 - 01:20am PT
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@Jan
Both my wife and I are excited to be headed there. Having lived in some warm, make that hot, weather for so long, the below 0 weather is both welcomed and ....
Yes, the dogs are coming too. I've been exchanging emails with some Canadian friends on how to best winterize them too. They were born and raised in Indonesia.
On the dog front, I've also started to return funds that were donated when I originally asked for help to move back to America. Should have everything returned before the end of August.
For those who commented on bolts and cold weather, thanks. Just haven't dealt with some cold temps before. Local climbers are already asking if I'll be able to bring a drill to get some new sport routes up. China, Okinawa, Indonesia, now Mongolia. I really need to move somewhere with a more developed climbing scene next time.
The rock is Granite I'm told. I'd like to concentrate on the cracks, but I definitely won't pass-up faces that would make great sport routes. Looks pretty fantastic from the photos I've seen.
@Jan, I was offered a job on Okinawa, Camp Foster, two weeks after I signed my contract with Mongolia. Almost considered breaking the Mongolia deal.
I post some trip-reports when I get there.
Eman
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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May 19, 2013 - 08:12am PT
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I'd be more concerned about different rates of thermal expansion than material changes. Steel and rock have very similar rates of expansion, this is why reinforced concrete doesn't tear itself apart with temperature changes. Also why enameled steel and iron cooking pots don't. Adhesives have a very different thermal expansion rate than rock or steel. While the adhesive seems to generally be elastic enough to accommodate this, I am not aware of any good test data or research regarding large temperature changes. Each manufacturer probably uses different adhesives too.
I'd stick with ss expansion bolts and not worry about it.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 19, 2013 - 08:18am PT
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I think Mongolia is a better choice when you have the chance. Okinawa and the Americans here aren't going anywhere. Moving Futenma is ten years behind schedule and no deal yet in sight.
My dogs are going to have the same problem of adjustment moving from Oki back to Colorado - as will I.
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Guangzhou
Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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Jan,
Okinawa has a lot of variety and a much less extreme winter temperature. As as school teacher, I wouldn't be around during summer, except a couple week in August. Of course, the water is always great on "The Rock."
When I lived on Island, I climbed year-round.
Not sure if I've asked you before. Do you know the Hoffmans. Betty and???
Eman
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