rain and sandstone.

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Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2013 - 11:24am PT
After an excellent trip to Utah I made it back to the Fords... we got rained out yesterday, and that go me ta thinkin'. While we were in the Moab area there ws some heavy rain events. I've been told to wait a day or two before resuming climbing activities, especially on the softer sand stone layers, like exists on Potash road. However not everyone heeds the wise advice of prior climbing generation, as groups of Coloradan posted up at the base of the climbs waiting ffor the instant the rain stopped. Now there's been grooves from lowering off these routes for years, not ever gonna heal the scars, but these selfish climbers have to get some no matter the cost.WTF
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 15, 2013 - 11:38am PT
At Stoney Point we have learned that if one climbs soon after the rain, the problems disapear forever.

I take it upon myself, and many others do also, to go and talk with the climbers who are looking to climb on the wet stone. Mostly just a simple demonstration of how soft and crumbly wet sandstone can be is enuf and they understand and go away.

But not always.

Some are just selfish a-holes.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
May 15, 2013 - 11:39am PT
cant ya just spackle on some sand over the scars- a little water and a little debris from the base - kinda like wall texture??;-)
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
And when it wasn't raining the bastards hogged all the routes by exchanging top rope anchors, effectively eliminating any chances of getting in a lead climb. Utah is not a county in Colorado. Bob Camps would'v killed for less!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 15, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
You'd be dead for the gross misspelling of Mr. Kamp's name. Sheesh. :)

Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
*Sorry mouse yur rite. Bob Kamps, I stand corrected thx. But the topic remains relatively undebated. Besides your spelling correction what do you think?
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
May 15, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
Black Corridor, Red Rocks.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
May 15, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
And when it wasn't raining the bastards hogged all the routes by exchanging top rope anchors, effectively eliminating any chances of getting in a lead climb. Utah is not a county in Colorado. Bob Camps would'v killed for less!


Bob was a statesman, if that was going on (swapping TR's around) he would have quietly called them out for their lack of manners.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
May 15, 2013 - 02:02pm PT

Dude, look at me. I've lived near the best damned granite on the whole damned planet most of my hole life, it seems.

My opinion on sandstone, wet or dry, is essentially non-existent. Sorry.

AND I typoed the correction, the competent observer notes, on purpose.

The survey says:

Thee art not a competent observer, therefore. LOL y 'What was the question?'

Having met only Bonnie K and never Bob K (nor even Coach K or Coach V), I have no opinion on Bob's manners. I was just sayin', as they say.
KitKat

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
May 15, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
How do you know it's springtime in Moab?


The license plates turn green...
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
May 15, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
if you want to put up new routes, it is best to climb sandstone immediately after a good rain storm.

when you get to the steep crux, you simply kick in new holds with your foot,

keep the toenail on you big toe as big as it can be without causing pain,

or duct tape a small chisel to the top of your climbing shoe,that way you can lift your leg over your head like a dog taking a whiz, you can kick in hand holds with your foot,

rangers can be a problem so i always pack a 40 S&W under da brim,

tie in before you unload the clip into ranger rick, that way you will not fall if you take one to the gut,

they said that no strings can secure you to the station, so use a big rope, and be careful when the shadows run from themselves,



kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
May 15, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
dan, any photos?
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
May 15, 2013 - 03:20pm PT
Interesting to read:
perhaps a thread drift...

Or perhaps the real gripe here is not climbing on wet sandstone so much as the emergence of a relatively new phenomenon within the south west climbing community, that being: a "predatory climbing group"

I have been hearing (and seeing) more and more examples of "predatory climbing groups".
Why is it (rhetorical question as I fully understand the demographics) that so much griping about egocentric groups of climbers so often come from the front range of CO ?

"as groups of Coloradan posted up at the base of the climbs waiting for the instant the rain stopped."

I recently had an interesting discussion with Alf Randell regarding this. He asked me to go read and better yet, comment on his blog posts. Being a (relatively) old fart the topic is new to me and I am still forming my opinion(s)

A hot topic lately is "Dogs at the crags".
I am beginning to think the true dogs at the crags legally drove there with a valid driver's licence?

I suggest others make the read and if you have you own opinion then express it please.

I suggest scrolling down and reading "What is a predatory climbing group?"
Before going on to read:
"The 'posse' in modern climbing"

http://alfrandell.blogspot.com/

Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
Sorry, I'm not an english major. Sheesh if you have no opimion about the subjekt, sp? why post a reply? I'll attempt to be more statesman-like in the future, but the masses, man the sheer masses! Dan Thx trundlebun...excellent read. Seen and felt it first hand, Wonder how Bob would handle the boulderites if he was still climbing on this plane?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 15, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
Seems rude to climb on wet sandstone. I was on a recent trip & we had to bail on a major objective since it started raining. Major bummer but not as much of a bummer as a classic route with broken crux holds.
Ljohnson

Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
May 15, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
Chim, you really need to brush up on your politics and geography.
The corridor stretches from North to South, marked by Owl rock at the N. end and Supercrack at the S. end with a width of 15 miles.
This corridor is actually, temporally, in Co.
The annexation lasts from Apr 1st-Jun.1st and Sept. 15th-Nov 15th. During that time period the corridor is ruled by Greenies, with the unique caveat that UT police may continue to only enforce drug and alcohol violations in the most corrupt way possible.
In regards to wet stone:
If climbing splitter cracks Greenies are encouraged to climb as much as possible, as soon as possible, after a storm. Splitter cracks do not degrade when wet, except when it mercilessly spits out cams forming "rail tracks."
"Rail tracks" are a small price to pay to see said Co. climber zipper gear all the way to the base after sending way too many 11's in one day.

Face holds are another matter entirely, but not one the Moab area climber need worry about. There will be no face holds in a matter of years, and if Windgate really cared about it's face it would have undergone some sort of tectonic mashing before it surfaced.

Rope scars come from people top-roping off of rap chains, dry or wet.

Did you rap after every climb?

Edit: The Blog link above tried really hard to make it's point, but failed. The behavior it noted is just as common in SLC, Cali and many other places.
Allow me to try: "People from the Front Range of Co. (especially Boulder,) tend to be especially obnoxious at crags for several reasons.
1. They tend to coagulate in large groups with the same mindset.
2. They often have several mis-behaved dogs with them that they coddle and spoil. These animals can do no wrong, if you suggest as much your behavior will be called into question immediately.
3. They dress in expensive, costly, high tech clothing.
4. One (or more) of them always climbs really, really well. This makes one always feel inferior."
Chim-Chim

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 11:45pm PT
Every f'n climb! Even Elephant Man.
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