best top-rope problems at the Gunks? Just my opinion

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donald perry

Trad climber
kearny, NJ
Topic Author's Original Post - May 6, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
This list will change, but here is a start. I have been interested in these, and access them (perferably with a rope that reaches the ground)for rope-solo from the top. Sustained routes is what I would be looking for.

Nears
Fat Stick 5.10
To Be, Or Not To Be 5.11+
To Have or Have Not 5.12, must use a directional.
Bird Brain 5.11+
Road Warrior 5.11+
Transcontinental Nailway 5.10
Chris-Cross and Between the lines 5.11
Sling-Time 5.11+
Infinite Space, very problematic but doable 5.11+

Lost City
Persistence 5.11

Traps
Gill Problem to double clutch 5.11+
Stupid Crack 5.11+
McCarthy Wall climbs, now filled with Falcons 5.10
Never Never Land 5.10
Scary Aria, The lower section can be accessed from Airy Area. 5.11

Skytop someday
Supercrack 5.12
Foops 5.11



divad

Trad climber
wmass
May 6, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
popping off under the roof of Foops could produce some poops....
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 6, 2013 - 10:16pm PT

Why bother top roping. If you're gonna climb,
climb it from the bottom.
donald perry

Trad climber
kearny, NJ
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 12:19am PT
Opps, I ment rope solo, not toprope.

So the answer is, you can't start from the bottom. Or at least I can't.
donald perry

Trad climber
kearny, NJ
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 12:25am PT
"popping off under the roof of Foops could produce some poops.... "

It's possible to use a gri-gri, but you have to keep yanking on it all the way up. No need to sh#t yourself then.

Otherwise, you need a jumar to switch over to a grigri to start over. Maybe someday someone will invent something better that goes both ways.

Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
May 7, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Almost every route on your list will be a hassle to rig for top-rope self belay.
Do like SteveW says and lead 'em.
Have fun and of course,




























































































































YER GONNA DIE!
donald perry

Trad climber
kearny, NJ
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 01:16am PT
We have no choice, this ain't New River.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
May 7, 2013 - 02:21am PT
* make sure fly zipped: check
* shoes laced?: check
* rope reaches the ground: check

For rope soloing, the devil is in the details.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
May 7, 2013 - 07:50am PT
I've always enjoyed jumping on the 'Slightly Roddey' top-rope that is probably setup every decent weekend. If you know the trick, it's a fairly easy roof problem. If not, it's probably a number grade harder (5.11, not 5.10... probably 5.9 if you know the move).

You'll see folks struggling and not make it and the rope is just hanging there. Since it's a one-move-wonder kind of thing, anyone who knows the trick will never set it up.

Being the dickhead that I am, I used to beg onto a free ride and play the novice role like I've never even seen the roof before. Then I'd stumble my way up to the base of the roof and fumble around all while getting tons of beta yelled up from the base. Then fire it and ask if I did it correctly.

I'm lucky their belayers have never dropped me like a sack of dung, which I might have deserved.

EDIT: ...oh this was about good top-rope solo climbs in the Gunks. I'd rather lead than TR-solo.
slevin

Trad climber
NYC, NY
May 7, 2013 - 09:09am PT



Traps
Gill Problem to double clutch 5.11+
Stupid Crack 5.11+
Both of them are about a grade harder in real world. Gill is a V4-V5 problem, be ready for some serious dynamic movement. Oh, and since the cheater foot-rock has dissappeared, it's a V8 to get off the ground. Stupid crack is a fun little route which is not a crack at all. If you gonna try 12s, go for No Solution, you'd have to lead Retribution or Nosedive to get on it.

I've always enjoyed jumping on the 'Slightly Roddey' top-rope that is probably setup every decent weekend. If you know the trick, it's a fairly easy roof problem. If not, it's probably a number grade harder (5.11, not 5.10... probably 5.9 if you know the move).
Is that a little roof thing slightly to the right of the Bellyroll? I led it some years ago, the roof itself was not as scary as a totally unprotected slab below. I ended up creating a "variation" by leading the corner up to the roof and traversing - perfectly G this way.
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