Jack of Diamonds History Early Repeats- Who and When?


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 6, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
I am trying to find out who did the first few repeats of the Jack of Diamonds route on Longs Peak and if they took photos.

I need some image support to discuss this route as Layton and Royal were moving so fast and light that they didn't carry a camera.

Contact information for the second and third ascent party would be greatly appreciated to help the Diamond Reflections Kor memorial to be as complete as possible historically.

More on that gathering here....

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 11:41am PT
Info bump...
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 7, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
Actually they did carry a camera, and they took a few photos,
very few. Royal gave me one. It's in black and white, of Layton,
near the top. I'd have to dig around for it, but it's here somewhere.
It probably needs a good scan. I might possibly have used it
in Spirit of the Age, can't right now recall....

Not that it's real important, but I was the leader of their
support party, at age 16, haha. Paul Mayrose, Bob Bradley, and others
were there, though Layton and Royal needed no support party (except
as a national park technicality). I watched the entire one-day ascent.
It was a marvelous display of competence by perhaps the best team
in the country at the time. This was before nuts and Friends, so everything
was a piton, taking much longer. With today's modern gear they might
well have made the route in three or four hours....

This was 1963, although in the original Beyond the Vertical Royal's write-up has it as '64, a small error.

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
May 7, 2013 - 08:21pm PT
What was the quote from Robbins (don't have my book with me)

"and believe me, it was I who was trying to keep up" on the descent back to the hut?

I also have found the story of their route fascinating and would like to know more. As usual, Mr Ament fills in historical information very nicely.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 7, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
There's a photo on p.121 of Spirit of the Age of "Kor leading on the Diamond".
It doesn't say whether it is D1 or Jack of Diamonds.
It's much nicer quality than the D1 photos in Climb!, though.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2013 - 10:07am PT
Pat-Thanks for the clarification on the camera. I hope that I can find some of the FA photos but am trying to get some image support from the second or third ascent teams. No repeat as of 1971.

A route description from the 1971 Walter Fricke guide.

I wonder of that route description ever surfaced again...

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
May 8, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
According to Ray Jardine's climbing log, he and Jimmy Dunn did the second ascent around Aug. of 1972 (his 6th route on the Diamond). Pretty cool log to read.....


Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
May 9, 2013 - 01:05am PT
That description from the guide doesn't sound entirely accurate....

May 9, 2013 - 07:28am PT
I've heard of tales, perhaps Jeff Bevan & Chip Salon did an early ascent.
Chip long gone & maybe Jeff is on ST. Talk to Covington, Culp or Komito.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Same set of questions about the Enos Mills Wall SA.

Anyone know the folks that repeated this one early?
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