Guidebooks That are Fabulous But May Never Have a Reprint


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Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 11, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
They lurk as exposed love letters to patches of the planet the author couldn't help but blurt out about, regardless of the code that a gentleman never tells...

- Baffin Island - climbing, trekking and skiing. Author, Mark Synott.

An island quasi - continent explained to the imagination of anyone for the cost of 26 dollars. The hipster MEC cashier smirked and was equally caught wondering at the idea of Baffin Island. It was where momentarily buying something sparked an interest in someone who had no idea how cool the path less taken could be.

- Black Canyon Rock Climbs - Author, Robbie Williams

This one is an incredible expression of a place and a time that includes route descriptions as a salutation to strangers, while telling about who, where, what and why. It's complete with Philo cartoons!

- The Waddington Guide - alpine climbs in one of the worlds great ranges - Author Don Serl.

The Dick Culbert Coast Range guide from the 60's is rare and brilliant. Don's book focusing on the high and wildly wonderful alpine crest of British Columbian granite is truly a love letter. It's delivered with a cadence best appreciated by listening while trying to keep up with him !

What's the one you can think of ?

Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)

Social climber
Apr 11, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
The Guide to the Mulanje Massif by Frank Eastwood.
Scott McNamara

Tucson, Arizona
Apr 11, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
Steiger's, Climbing Guide to Sabino Canyon and Mount Lemmon Highway.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
Right on !

The exotic JanBird and I found ourselves at Mt. Lemmon with great friends and no guidebook available.

It was a good experience. Being chased by the 5 pm setting Sun and cold Arizona wind that accompanied the settling desert winter gloom was bracingly motivational.

Tucson rocked though. Lots of spirit to tap into for the thick skinned... B.C. locals at home never get to appreciate alligator tail breakfast steaks with their eggs and toast. I liked it !
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 12, 2013 - 12:13am PT
Queen Creek?

Hey, Marty...

A long way from where I started
Apr 12, 2013 - 12:14am PT
I've got a copy of the old "Squeezing the Lemmon" somewhere. Has burn marks on the cover from an incident the previous owner didn't want to talk about.

Apr 12, 2013 - 12:37am PT

Definitely fits the thread title but out of place in the company so far.

Uses ASL for route names

Pietersberg has different name, now.

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Apr 12, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Mt Kenya Rock climbing guide.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 12, 2013 - 12:55am PT
My wife owns this guide to an important rock.
We all like domes, right?
We all like domes, right?
Credit: Reilly

Trad climber
Reno, NV
Apr 24, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
Bellefonte Climbing Guide by Jim Bowers. Funniest and most redneck guidebook ever.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 24, 2013 - 03:57pm PT

How about Piana's guide to the Needles of South Dakota. . .

or the book on Alaskan ice climbing. . .????

Those two are almost priceless, if you can even find one.

Apr 24, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Bellefonte Climbing Guide by Jim Bowers. Funniest and most redneck guidebook ever.

laurel arndt

Trad climber
Apr 24, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
Back Country Rock Climbing in Southern Arizona: Bob Kerry.
Despite all the online beta, still a must have for all the original stuff

portland, or
Apr 24, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
Rock Climbing in Oman - R.a. Mcdonald. Out of print, outdated (based on what you can find online) but sheds light on some huge cliffs in a region of the world many don't necessarily associate with rock climbing.

Then there was this guidebook to the Tres Picos National Park in Brazil. Recent but apparently a small release…took quite a bit of innovation & even more generosity of a Brazilian climber to get my hands on it.

Rock Climbs in the Pyrenees by Derek Walker – only guidebook in English for Riglos in Spain. Funny thing is that it (quietly) uses the British technical system whereas the modern Spanish guidebook uses French sport grades…quite a surprise once on a route :)

Social climber
Apr 24, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 24, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
The internet is going to pose quite a challenge to ALL futre guide books.
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Apr 24, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
The Dome Driver's Manual to Enchanted Rock.

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Apr 24, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
It's been reprinted, so doesn't exactly count, but the Nightclimbers of Cambridge would be very hard to find an original of...

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 24, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
How about Piana's guide to the Needles of South Dakota

That would be:

Touch The Sky  Paul Piana
Touch The Sky Paul Piana
Credit: rgold

Still the definitive resource for the areas in Custer State Park. For later stuff, Mountain Project seems to be the only game in town.

Rushmore is a different story; there is a new and very much in-print guidebook.

Trad climber
Apr 25, 2013 - 05:00am PT
What about the 1984 Urioste guide to "The Red Rocks of Southern Navada"?
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