WIND TREE , an Eagle Lake Butress classic~

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 4, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Rated 5.9, 380' long, Fa Kevin Nelson and Bill Todd in 1974 -This 2.2 pitch route ascends a more direct line Up the south face of the butress than most. The first pitch is a combo of jams holds and liebacks with readily available pro. The second pitch continues up cracks and finishes up a steep exposed but deep hand jams/lieback crack RIGHT to said "wind tree". A RIGHT angle juniper- bent by the winds its entire life growing out of the end crack. Its got to be eighty if a day - eagle lakes prestine "banzai" if you will.. Caution is urged here, as the final jams, they way they are situated, leave one moving suddenly INTO the tree head first, of course. This may very well give side effects such as "sparkleys" or vision that turns to grey, then red,, maybe a ringing in ones ears. Just sayin. Then finish up the summit block cracks and yur on the summie. Descend via the mntrs route. To me there were 5.8 plus moves on both main pitches.

While "Orange sunshine" is also striking The nature of the top pitch make "Wind Tree" a classic too!

Credit: MP.


Wind tree marked in yellow, and you can see the actual Banzai in the pic which is the second belay on the top ridge.. Beautifull route on a beautiful lil crag.! And views!

10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
thanks Ron
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
I've only been up there once, but it's a really fun crag in a beautiful setting.

I'd go back in a heartbeat.

Also, I bet the approach right now is way easier than in the summer.

Go get it!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Yea thanks for posting. Hope this is still up when I get a minnit to check that place out...there are a few supposedly cool multi-pitch climbs in that area..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 07:08pm PT
I nearly died on some approach slabs and the route i took one time on the way there! turned out to be the all time solo onsight of my life ! The butress always seems to have a lazy sort of atmosphere to it. Quiet and peaceful. I only saw other climbers there once.

Indeed there is V,, Sec 20 and Maggies peak-- Stewie "Alpine" Johnson has put up some killer routes on Maggies!
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
Orange Sunshine= left facing corner?
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
Sounds like you passed the talus gully in favor of the slabs. The talus isn't too bad.

10b, yes.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Yup the obvious orange left corner 5.8, another Bill Todd Fa. Id say its equal to wind tree.


And yeah Brandon, we decided since it was spring that the slabs would be a good option.. Find the most blankest steepest salb there and climb up it. Yur on route. Crux is 5.10 + smears on crystal nothings at the top. My shyt stains may still be there.
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Went many times to 90 Foot Wall, never got to the lake. But I will.

Thanks Ron.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
suposedly, i got the first lead of "ice Nine" there bitd Moose! I may have left shyt stains there as well..!
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
the most direct approach to the buttress is straight up the slabs to the ridge. 1 hour from the car to the base.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
sure,, as long as you dont pull an RA and get lost on that one slab. the crux be lengthy and down climbing suddenly seems absurd i tellz ya!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
I really enjoyed the adventurous feel of the place. I didn't bring a guidebook, but was told that it would be obvious from the lake. I looked up from the lake and thought 'all the way up there?' The approach from the lake is faster and easier than it appears. I knew there were cracks up the east ridge, and an orange inside corner, and their ratings. No more.

We didn't see anyone, almost got struck by lightning, and had one of my top five favorite days in the mountains up there. Love that place.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
the youth on eagle lake buttress, eagle route.
the youth on eagle lake buttress, eagle route.
Credit: Stewart Johnson
there are no bolts on this crag, lets keep it that way.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
Indeed Stewie.. No bolts needed anywhere on that crag. It was made for pro. eats it on every route.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 4, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
hey there say, ron.... wow, neat picture of rock and its trail, :)


say, thanks for the neat share, too, whewww, after reading that one part,
GLAD you are still with us...


:)


interesting looking rock, though... i love seeing all the routs DRAWN on them, for us all to glance at fast... :)
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Apr 5, 2013 - 01:00am PT
Good to see your excellent picture of the buttress Ron. I did Wind Tree shortly after Bill and Kevin and the only route i enjoyed more up there was Monkey Business. Orange Sunshine was an ourageous steep jamcrack but unfortunately the business part ended too soon. Has anyone gone all the way down the pinnacle ridge traverse from the buttress top?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Apr 5, 2013 - 09:47am PT
unfortunatly the eagle ridge is only class three but still a nice outing!
(there is a 5.8 short pillar halfway along the ridge with kiwi bolts on top)
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 5, 2013 - 10:23am PT
I'd like to get on Orange Sunshine
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 10:56am PT
Yeah Rick! Monkey Business-- FA Rick Sumner, Bill Todd 1974.. followed that one with B. Nagel - I specifically remember a hella- hard crack going through a roof which was "exciting" to say the least. It seemed quite hard - for the 10A rating.. Bill and You musta been having some kinda fun exploring that lonely place up high in the canyon!
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