J Tree in May


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Ice climber
Bzn, mt
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 1, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
Were passing through S Ca first week of May and plan to side track to J tree.
First 60 M or 70 M rope?

and second

Any routs of choice that are in the maybe 5.7-5.8 range for the first day. Your talking to a climber that has minimal crack climbing technique.

we are only going to be there for two days so I want to minimize fumbling about for now. When I make a nother trip this fall I will have much more time for exploring.

Trad climber
Apr 1, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
a 30 metre rope would do for much of the climbing

Ice climber
Bzn, mt
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
humm, I dont currently own any 30meter ropes. So 60 it is.

bolts? cool I wasent expecting that reply. How about trad as well, I will bring a rack.
I guess some quick draws too now.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 1, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
Could be pretty warm, might want to consider Tahquitz rock....it's 3000 ft. higher.

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Apr 1, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
you will probably want to find the shade

Mountain climber
La Mancha
Apr 1, 2013 - 05:30pm PT
When you get there, make a beeline to Belle Campground so you can be close to the action and not waste time traveling. If Belle is full, then try Jumbo Rocks and bring your digeridoo so you can join in the midnight drum circles.

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
Apr 1, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
"you will probably want to find the shade"

Or time your stay around a full moon.

South facing climbs ( Headstone SW Corner, Toe Jam, Mike's Books ) early in the evening. More northerly facing routes ( W.O.T.W.S. ) can be done sometime after midnight.

Take your headlamp if you want, but you won't need it.

Social climber
Apr 1, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
Season is almost done, would be much better to hang out with me in Idyllwild. Rock quality is out of this world, splitters are actually splitters, big mountain air... oh but you gotta hike and lead, so no crowds. hope that's OK :)
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 1, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
If your trad skills (or experience) is minimal, Tahquitz/Suicide is not really the place to where you want to head.

Tahquitz has virtually no "sport" or even "well" bolted routes. It is upwards of 900 feet tall and most routes follow cracks (and the face climbs are mostly mixed bolts and gear).

Suicide has many bolted face climbs, but they are (with very few exceptions) "trad" face climbing...meaning it can be run out between bolts. And, at the grade levels you mentioned, there would not be a lot of bolted routes anyway.

Joshua Tree in the first part of May can be anywhere from nice (70s) to a bit warm (80+s) -- sometimes warmer. You can climb in the shade or sun, so temps can mitigated depending on the weather. There are bolted sport routes at Josh, even in more moderate grades (though not tones of them). And, many routes can be top-roped (gear anchors may be required) if leading trad climbs is not an option.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 1, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
AM until 11 .........afternoons after 5 PM.......it's fabulous...


Ice climber
Bzn, mt
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 10:51am PT
just to claify a missconception. I may have little crack climbing experience but that does not correleate to plugging gear. The graite rocks that Iam use to in MT are more like face climbes with protectable/intermitent cracks. so there is very little jaming at all.

I am aware of the heat and have been looking at annual weather averages on line and I think its doable, Which is why I was looking for rediculus easy routs.

Thanks for the links and information that really helps me figure out my plan of attack.

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