Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 27, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
In an attempt to escape some of the Indian Creek madness and also to check out a new area, I've been eyeing the Mav Buttress out off Potash Road. My girlfriend is skeptical about the quality of the 5.10's listed on mtn. project and I'm looking for beta to sure up my stance that they're going to be great!
I guess I'm asking if anyone has any info on the sub 5.11 routes in the area of Longs Canyon, esp. the Maverick Buttress. Single pitch, multi pitch, towers; all beta is welcome. Also, we're hoping to camp nearby and would love any beta on that, as well!!
Thanks in advance and happy climbing!
The Maverick Buttress has some good 10s on it, worth the drive and very short approach. That stuff is in one of Bjornstad's guides, don't remember which off hand. We used to camp in there all the time but I think its considered offlimits by BLM nowadays. Had to do an ugly midnight crash in the tamarisk further out Potash past the mine last time I tried a bivy out there. Might be able to bivy above Maverick, but haven't tried.
There's other good routes in that there Long Canyon and its neighbor, Day Canyon. There's a Datsun and a Saab in there, some other moderates. Not lots of folks, generally. Beware that Program Director is big hands and lots thereof.
the blm closed the canyon to camping about ten years ago, sheep...
maveric's os ok, half a step down from standard indian creek but still good. offwidth city and reptillian wall are better. i did a three pitch rim route in that side canyon near the mouth many years ago, quite good but much harder than 5.10.
Hot Toddy and Tequila Sunrise are great 5.10's, but, if you have small hands they might feel a lot harder- mostly #3-#4. Gunsmoke is 11a but worth the trip all by itself. Texas Two Step is 5.10 but the top is quite physical (wide). Round Up is 11a but mostly .10 with some short well protected crux sections.
It's also a beautiful location, definitely worth a visit.
Also as you first enter the canyon, the cliff up to your left has some really good 5.10's (listed in one of the select books (Knapp's, I think). Some of the "Unnamed" or "Unknown" are spectacular hand cracks.
The Shipyard is also good but the 5.10's there are burly- Electronic Battleship is listed as "hands" but it's sustained baggy #4's. To its right is another 5.10 that is 5.11 for big handed folks (red camalots!).
Sweet! I had a feeling a lot of the 5.10's would be wide-ish, so maybe we'll get after the "thin hands" 5.11's instead.
Friend, those pics are awesome. Are those climbs fairly easy to find and access? They look incredible, especially the Day Valley shot.
I was recently up there as well and looking at those walls. Like a whole other IC with somewhat harder hikes and no people. Although all the wide stuff doesn't sound too fun for my red camalot hands, I hope to hit this area up at least once.
Also, any good beta on the Jug Handle route? I would really like to do that but wondered if it had some spicy run-out and/or poor rock quality not actually noted in the guidebook.... (don't ask me why I think this, I just do).....
Mark Westman's beta sounds about like I remember. I'd say it's well worth a visit and yes the routes are easy to find.
The Day Canyon shot I posted is the Brush Painted Datsun, classic hand crack. The hike in there is 30-40 minutes but really beautiful.
Have fun, wish I was headed there too!