Several years into 70m rope availability, what say you?


Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 75 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 26, 2013 - 12:53am PT
Now that we are several years into 70m rope availability. Have you found them to be worth the price? Worth the extra schlep? Worth going down to a smaller diameter to reduce the weight enough to make it worth it?

What type of situations do you use your 70m for?

1. long alpine (with small diameter)?
2. Longer sport?
3. 70m standard areas, if there is such a thing?
4. Toproping longer than 100' lines since they are common in your area?

What areas do you use yours in?

Yos, Josh, Gunks, South Dakota, Banff, Peru, Jamaica?

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:07am PT
love mine. linking pitches is the shizzle. the extra weight? meh, 10 extra meters of pulling rope just develops stronger shoulders

some eastside hovel
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:17am PT
70's are already out of vogue.My friends and I are all runnin' 80's.Talk about strong shoulders when coiling...An 80 will do ya! :-)

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:18am PT
Unless you're climbing exclusively at josh or somewhere like that, why would you buy anything else?

And yes Many new routes require them.

Mar 26, 2013 - 01:29am PT
Long alpine (with small diameter) - Sierra

70m can be a little long heading up, but is great for getting down fast. Thinking of switching over to a skinny 40m and doubling it with an even skinnier 40m for raps. Not for climbing real routes, just trying to get up and down crap.

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 01:30am PT
well so far, all the strong climbers have spoken up.

how about the rest of us?

I'll go first. I dislike coiling extra rope. But I'm willing to do it if the cord is good and the weight is offset. The jacked up thing is that to link pitches, my haul line will need to be longer too!

Lucky my rei dividend is big, like me.

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 01:31am PT
Joe, I hear ya. Brutus used to run with skinny half ropes for back country work. Thought about doing that?

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:40am PT

I don't follow fads or flawed logic so I still climb on a 50m and a 60m. What I think is funny is that people are so concerned about weight that they go out and spend big $$$ on a 9.2mm single rope and then buy a 70m or 80m. Oh, yeah, did I say flawed logic.

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 01:44am PT
I hear ya Bruce. I haven't done the math, but I'd be coming down from a 10.5mm to like a 9.sumpin

I think it is a wash, no? So that's why the extra coiling is now weighed against sheer utility like...

linking pitches
toproping at the Creek
toproping at the cookie


The bummer for me would be linking entails more gear since I'm a scardy.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:54am PT
Only rope ill buy. 9.9 70m. Great for linking gear pitches, great for long sport routes.

I use mine in squamish, skaha, yosemite, las vegas (well it wasn't mine but same rope)... It's great for toproping 35m pitches. If i could find an 80m i would buy it.a

For climbs that require a tagline i really like my 8mm half ropes, 70m also or one skinny one fat depending on partners. (If their half rope haters or not)

Indispensable for any 35m skaha pitches.

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:59am PT
Indispensable in a gym ;)

Mountain climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 02:05am PT
I recently pick up a 40 and honestly, it's the best rope I've used...mmmmmm...I have an extra 70 in the closet somewhere, never use it much it's too big and I am really weak...I bet I can cut it into two 35's, nice, a twofer!
Steve Belford

Sport climber
Poway, CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 02:06am PT
I wouldn't buy anything else. I usually go for a 9.8mm. I am on my 5th or 6th 70m rope. The 70m seems to be the standard for the sport climbs around Bishop. I was in JT last week with a 70 and I did not even sweat the extra rope. I never have been screwed by having too long a rope.

Mar 26, 2013 - 02:11am PT
Cheers, Munge.

For alpine choss, I got a 40m 9.2 Fusion Nano and an 8.3 Mammut half - $90 & $60 for those counting cash. Can run them double if the situation warrants, usually no need for that. Together they weigh little more than a skinny 70m. Apart from runouts should be faster to manage, less slack to reel in when you don't know where the hell you are going except up. Throw in a EDK and got the raps covered - 20m raps would suck.

Plus you gotta carry it in and I'm a lightweight. At least that's what I'm thinking. Anyone wanna climb something easy and stupid this summer, off the beaten path?

70's are handy for some Valley raps.

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 02:16am PT

I don't think you are gonna get people to seriously consider if they really need a longer rope all the time. One of the other fads and flawed logic I like is the use of rope bags to, supposedly, extend the rope life by keeping it clean. The same people who use rope bags also lower through their gear at the top of sport climbs instead of rappelling. Lowering puts way more wear and tear on a rope.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 02:31am PT
A short rope for cragging isn't a bad idea. Trouble is, there are lots of longer routes as well as shorter routes at our crags. Are you going to take two shorty's or just one long one?

A 60 would be nice for areas that are guaranteed sub 30m, trouble is there aren't many areas like that around here.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 03:25am PT
80m in Yosemite...

Fish says 83m or you're hosed...
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 06:13am PT
My most recent 70m was cut in half for sport climbing at a somewhat constant height winter area along the North Platte river. I have 2 ropes of 35m.

Another climber there seeing my 2 tidy piles of rope cut his 70m in half.

Once I was doing the 5.11 west face route on Square Top with 60 meter ropes but could not utilize their length very often because of too much rope drag.

But keep buying those 70's & 80's as friends of mine give me their end trashed ropes. I cut the ends off and use the approx <60m piece for tram lines on steep overhangs.

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 26, 2013 - 06:36am PT
120' ropes for me!

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 26, 2013 - 07:26am PT
Bigger,faster longer is not always better, this is supposed to be fun. pushing the pitch length makes sense sometimes but often it does not. sit down on that ledge and look arouund. appreciate the beauty of where you are...
Messages 1 - 20 of total 75 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

Try a free sample topo!

SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews