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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 25, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
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Hi,
i'm looking for some beta about rapping salathe/freerider for water stashing and pitch inspection purposes.
how it's usually done, tricky pitches to be rapped, what to stash and how much (i.e. will other parties drink all of your water if you write to please leave your bottles half full?), etc...
thank you!
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
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what happened?
serious accident, shameful rescue, or other?
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
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is this a troll?
half troll probably.
on one side i'm a bit of a theorist and climbing geek. The kind that likes to read topos over and over.
on the other i should be in yosemite valley next autumn, with an excellent freeclimber who is highly interested in el cap but relies on me for ropework, tactics, logistics (his words).
i thought freerider is probably feasible as long little time is lost in queues and bad tactics and wondered if f*#king ground up ethics ad approaching the whole thing as a giant redpoint is a good idea.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 25, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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i'm looking for some beta about rapping salathe/freerider for water stashing and pitch inspection purposes.
Don't cheat yourself. Go do it ground up or don't bother.
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D-Rail
Trad climber
Calaveras
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Mar 25, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
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+1 for the above!
The Salathe Wall is a world class wall climb and free climb. Climb it from the bottom to the top just like the first ascentionists did. Better and more stylish for you, and way better for everyone else up there living their dream too.
D
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
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How long you expect to leave the water stashed?
3 weeks absolute max.
ideally just a few days.
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dikhed
climber
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Mar 25, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
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three weeks? full troll
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
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ok let's turn this into a real troll then! :D
i have a question for the ethical commission.
let's suppose that i (climber A) rap the whole route, checking every detail ans stashing water, bivy gear, etc.
a few days later i jumar below climber B who has no previous knowledge of the route (he climbs ground up).
i might give him some indications concerning the route finding, what gear is needed for each pitch, etc, even though i wouldn't help with actual climbing beta unless my purebreed climber falls.
climber B pulls off a remarkable free ascent over 3 days, without falls.
Is it a true ground up? Is it an onsight?
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TRo
climber
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Mar 25, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
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Nope
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Mar 25, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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Not even an onsight, nor a pure ground up ascent.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 25, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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It's called a Turkish Getup, and its a great afternoon snack with cloris leachman.
Who carez....
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
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Mar 25, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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Lots of top climbers have to work the harder pitches to free that thing... don't let 'em get you.
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ghisino
climber
Italy/France
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 09:40pm PT
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Lots of top climbers have to work the harder pitches to free that thing...
i know!
i.e. stephanie bodet, which for sure is not weak.
(i find it quite interesting that according to their blog her husband - who is even stronger- did not even only belayed. I wonder if this was planned in advance, i.e. they estimated that in order to be sure to succed, one of the two had to be the belay&haul slave)
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Mar 25, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
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I wouldn't really care what anyone else thinks of your ascent as long as you are happy with it's quality.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 25, 2013 - 11:56pm PT
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The secret is out: it no longer matters.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Mar 26, 2013 - 01:12am PT
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Don't matter on style. Just take A LOT OF LOT OF LOT of pictures, and post up.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 26, 2013 - 01:13am PT
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has anyone onsighted the captain free? be the first!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 26, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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ghisino
If you go to the Valley you'll meet the right people who'll answer all your questions regarding rapping salathe/freerider.
You'll get the right and good beta.
Here generally you'll only get .... oh never mind.
Good luck .....
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