New Dawn

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic
North

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
Anyone have any recent info on New Dawn conditions? Conditions of rivets? Really need 3 big cams (>4")? Oh yeah, did you have fun? Thanks.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
I would like to hear some responses too, thinking of New Dawn in the Late Summer early Fall.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
I'd take the big cams, at least for the right side of El Cap Tower. It's wide up there.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
I climbed it last June. Fantastic route that goes through a really cool part of the stone.

Rivets are old and bent but are all there. I was psyched for big cams coming off on Lay Lady Ledge. You dont need most of the iron on the ST rack. We placed a handful of sawed-offs and a couple of beaks, mostly on the 2nd to last pitch
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
I've only done the lower part, to Texas Flake, and it was a very nice line. We finished on Tribal Rite, which if you go that way had lots of rotten head wires five or seven years ago.

There's a great, steep hand and fist crack that leads to the far right edge of the base of Texas Flake. The "normal" route takes a broken, crappy path to the left of the uber-stellar crack. I wish we'd gone up that way, but it wasn't my lead.

The haul to that far edge of Texas Flake base kinda sucks, because the bolts are too close to the ledge, and the bag gets stuck in the flared top of the crack. There might be a "rotten 1/4er" right there that could be chopped, and a shiny new ASCA put in, further out. Just saying.

Messages 1 - 5 of total 5 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews