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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 15, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
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Props and congrats to ya both.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
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They finally got married???
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:55pm PT
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Mr. Nay, what'd they do?
Ha ha Russ!
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2006 - 01:11pm PT
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I should probably let Bill post up about it since E doesn't post up all that often. But they ticked a Captain route that has been on their list for quite some time.
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Loomis
climber
Praha, Ceska Republika
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Jun 15, 2006 - 01:25pm PT
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Good for them!
Congrats guys, hope you had a killer time!
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Jun 15, 2006 - 01:46pm PT
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Congrats guys, can't wait to hear about it.
Karen & Bill
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 02:07pm PT
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Ay. They knocked off the Sea of Dreams. I was watching them up on Bull Dyke, Price is Light and the Space Station the other day. Cybele was looking for a bit of exercise, so she rapped down to them with a "CARE package" when they were still a couple pitches from the summit.
How's that for service.
Congrats, dudes. Sorry I missed you. Hope Bill didn't get fired for being late!
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pc
climber
East of Seattle
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Jun 15, 2006 - 03:21pm PT
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PTPP wrote...Cybele was looking for a bit of exercise, so she rapped down to them with a "CARE package" when they were still a couple pitches from the summit...
So that's what aid is about. I've never aid climbed ;(
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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Ya know, dude, that was totally uncalled for. It was just a gesture of kindness for some friends who took a little longer than expected.
Definitely beer.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Jun 15, 2006 - 04:48pm PT
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Come on now Pete, if it is the same Cybele of old, she does have a certain 'big wall' reputation to uphold.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 05:03pm PT
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I've spent a month with her on the wall, over two two-week climbs. She's definitely a class act, a solid climber, and a lady all the way. What you write is patently untrue.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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Thanks Pat! Yeah, that was a nice tick but I gotta say it was a bit too extreme to be truly fun. S.O.D. was my 25 different route on El Cap and by far the loosest and most dangerous. We topped out with 9 extra 1.5 L bottles of water and some food but Cybelle's middle of the night visitation was mind blowing. We're hangin' there at the top of the 2nd Peruvian Flakes pitch and a shout from above and a headlamp shining down was our first inkling that we had company.
I did get a nice reprimand from the head Librarian for being late but all is cool for now. I'm still at the library right now so I have to go but I'll post more later tonight.
Thanks to Pete & Cybelle for their help!
Levy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:53pm PT
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Nice Job Lads,
Nothin' to be ashamed of whatsoever per the menage a bifteck.
Really, *nothing wrong with it*
Give my best to 'Old E.
Yours,
Libido
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funkness
climber
Ca.
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:54pm PT
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Yep, nice going you guys!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Jun 16, 2006 - 12:29am PT
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Good Job Men!!! I am envious.
But given the choice between 16 days of killer surf in Indonesia or toiling on a hard ElCap route, I am learning surf trips are alot of fun.
How many nights Bill? Show some photos.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 16, 2006 - 12:33am PT
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Dang! Twenty-fifth route is great! What's Eric's route count - it's over forty, isn't it?
The Sea has its loose bits, but I still think it's one of the finest on the Captain. Brilliant sustained climbing, it just keeps comin' at ya.
Nice send, boyz!
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 16, 2006 - 12:35am PT
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Proud.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:40am PT
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SKOAL!!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:44pm PT
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I'd have to compare it to an alpine climb in terms of commitment & objective danger. The Blue Room pitch is a 50' x50' x50' triangle of rock, like a downwards pointing stealth jet and is detached on most points. At the top of it you nail back right in a thin crack that takes LA's & leepers and the whole thing is vibrating as you hit the pins in. If it comes off, the whole show is descending to the ground at 32 fps with the team riding it down. Not one of my more enjoyable experiences on the Captain to be sure!
On the Price is Light pitch, there's a 30' x 60' flake that fell off some time ago and you have to go up a corner about 20' left of the belay by continuing out left along the Bulldyke. You can see Price's rivets in blank rock and fresh rock scars where the flake used to be.
On To the Tooth pitch, E found the whole edge of the crack peeling away from the rock and accidently knocked off a Ten Commandments sized tablet that could have doubled as a headstone.
I don't know for sure but I know 2 French guys from Chamonix did it in late 2003 but I don't know if it was climbed in '04 or '05 but many of the heads were rusty and not reliable. I took a daisy whipper on the Ace In Space pitch when a fixed head I'd bounce tested ripped on me. Luckily, I use 3 daisys on hard aid and was daisyed to the piece I was placing when the head pulled so I was stopped by the 2 daisies to either side of me(I was on the traversing part of the pitch)
It took us 9 1/2 days with the first 4 pitches fixed. We had cool, windy weather most of the time and only a little rain which hit us in the middle of the rappels. It sure sucks to carry a fat, wet rope down that weighs 25 lbs. The thing about S.O.D. was there were no easy pitches. Just about any pitch on it would have been the crux pitch on most other routes and it just kept coming at 'ya. Even the 5.7 pitch that leads to the Igloo was buster hard for the grade. I'm no Huber Brother or Tommy Caldwell but I'm no slouch on the free climbing either. The slot you have to negotiate to gain the Igloo was as hard as the Narrows of Steck Salathe. Your feet are swinging below helplessly while you try to wiggle into a slot that has some loose chockstones inside that you don't want to dislodge. I had to call for the free shoes and strip off my wall bandoleer and ascenders, cordelette, etc, just so I could fit in the slot. More like 5.9 +. Then there was the hauling. Hauling that pitch dislodged some huge rocks thazt I was certain were going to kill somebody on the ground. How lucky we were that nobody got hurt by the rocks that fell.
I'm sure glad to be down & I'll do more routes on the Captain but I thing I'm done with the Diorite routes. I'm gonna stick to the good rock from now on!
I'll try to post some pics later. We even lit off some fireworks on Big Sur and got good pics of the show.
Levy
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:50pm PT
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So you guys didn't get married???
(way to go fellahs... nice one)
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