Great Pioneers of the Eastern Alps Doug Scott Mountain 1974

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 2, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
Just in case you don't have a copy of Doug Scott's superlative Big Wall Climbing, Mountain published two excerpts in March and April 1974. Scott's historical work is definitive in addition to being one hell of a climber.

Randisi has posted some of this material already but not the full version unless I missed it.





















Second installment the following month.
















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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 3, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Reread that book last year. I like his writing style: fluid and insightful. As you said he is really one of our best.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 3, 2013 - 10:12am PT
No, Steve. I didn't post that material. Someone else did. It'd be on the Paul Preuss, Our Founding Father of Style thread.

But they were bad men, all.

Piaz was quite the character.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2013 - 11:47am PT
What a thrill to have been the first up those fabulous torres!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 6, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Great story, great writing. Is there a part 2?

From the Alps right now - a bit OT - http://vimeo.com/61143039
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
Scott's work is first rate.

Stay tuned for Part II.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Mar 6, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
That book is a tremendous resource of climbing history. One of the best books I ever purchased. It is faded and worn but still a great read. A lot of research went into it.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 9, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
hey there say, all...

wow, i love books about history of mountains, etc...

thanks for sharing....
love the alps...

thanks again...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 10, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
I am SO gonna do the Basso next spring. I love seeing how hard those vecchio doods were.
1899? Are you kidding me?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
No carrying your courage in your rucksack for those gentlemen! LOL
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 10, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
Winkler did use a grappling hook.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 01:50am PT
Bump for the second installment.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
Early Alpine history Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
Comici Bump...








From Ascent 1972
perswig

climber
Jun 21, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Poking around Twice Sold Tales in Farmington, Maine, I scored a copy of Whymper's Scrambles and an exhaustive 1949 text of Maine birds.

And then I found this.
Worth $7.50? I thought so.







I foresee many sleepless nights and some inattention at work.
Dale
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 21, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
Doug might be a Famous Climber™ and a Well Known Author™ but he's also a great guy. Down-to-earth, funny, and great fun to climb with.

Harnessing up for a day of sea-cliff climbing
Harnessing up for a day of sea-cliff climbing
Credit: Ghost

Pulling the roof on some climb at Swanage. Ken Wilson belaying.
Pulling the roof on some climb at Swanage. Ken Wilson belaying.
Credit: Ghost

Relaxing on top.
Relaxing on top.
Credit: Ghost

And yeah, "Big Wall Climbing" is one of the truly great climbing books.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
Pioneering Bump...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 25, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
"Oh, yeah!"--the Beatles

I recall vividly this pair of articles from the old Mountain, Steve. When I saw this thread topic, the words Paul Preuss came to mind immediately. That is a very worthwhile read and I'm sure Blakey's admiring it, too.

Merry Christmas, again, Steve.

And Merry Christmas, STEPHEN & BRONWEN--Again, I loved your TR on the "Dollies."
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Punta-Emma-The-Piaz-Crack-Lee-Harvey-Oswald-and-the-Kennedy-Assassination/t11418n.html


Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Dec 25, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
Might as well link the Preuss thread here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/999560/Paul-Preuss-Our-Founding-Father-Of-Style
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
These articles were the first place that I learned about him until I bought Doug's extraordinary book.
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