West Coast Rock climbs - John Harlin III

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
"The climbers guide to north America
West Coast rock climbs
second edition by John Harlin III."

Anyone else have it- i just FOUND it last night along with some route and fa info i had TOTALLY forgottne about.. Anyhow,, this book is really a treasure with ALL the main areas well covered from below Tuscon to Squamish.

A Good section on Calveras and Hammer dome are also in there as well as some other jewels, with great pics of fas and climbs, including, of course the Red Rocks. A GUD Book if you can find it!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Feb 19, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
Yes, cool guidebook. i drool at the squamish section.

If you're a rock ice & mountain club member, you can check it out through our library.

rockicemountian.org


but is red rock really west coast
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
nope. Nor the Leap, the Loaf or Calveras or Smith or~~,, but that book has A LOT!
Brock Wagstaff

Trad climber
Larkspur
Feb 19, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Ron - John's book is indeed a good look at some of the best Western climbing areas. Definitely a labor of love, with enough research to give an accurate account of quite a selection of fun routes. One of the first books to have some of the classic Calaveras climbs in print form, not counting the hand drawn ones that Smith, Altenburg, etal, would occasionally put out.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
I worked with John on all the NorCal stuff back when we were both living in Boulder in 1984. A few long hours in his basement apartment trying to overlay the routes on photos.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Indeed eh Brock,! Its ALL fairly accurate - really glad i bumped into it- I had drawn in new routes on some of the sections. I used it frequently as it had "those" areas in it!


bhilden,, NICE JOB !!!
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Feb 19, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
All 3 of John's books in this series are good value. Obviously the information is dated, but the old classics are still classic!!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
He covers ALL of the "to do" climbs really.. A visiting climber say from the E. coast couldnt do better than to snag a copy. Chances are good the route they want is in there. Major Kudos on the work involved in that one!
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 19, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
As I recall, some of the routes on Discovery Wall at the Pinnacles are not identified correctly.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
As I recall, some of the routes on Discovery Wall at the Pinnacles are not identified correctly.

Just pulled out my copy and you are correct. I don't know how it happened, but somehow the order of the routes was reversed. Routes #10-13 should be #13-10.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 19, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
Yep I have it and still use it.

DMT
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
The first edition had a few glitches, which the second edition likely corrected. The memorable one for me was Horrorscope at the Needles, which was shown as a good-looking 5.9. I went up there and it blanked out with no gear. I backed off. Turns out it was 5.10b/c R.... :-) Well, that is one thing that can happen when not many people have visited an area; the guidebook beta can be off on the less-travelled routes. Had a great time on other routes there!

It was a great guidebook for exposing a lot of good areas which were not widely known. Such as Red Rocks, Needles, and Cal Domes at the time. Cool, Bruce - a great project!
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
I have it too. Cal Dome and Needles.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:45am PT
Great guide...I still reference my copy. Didn't he do one for the Rocky Mountain region also, same format?
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:57am PT
Branscomb--Volumes for both the Rocky Mountains and the East Coast in addition to the West Coast one.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 20, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
John lives in Hood River. If he comes to my show tonight I'll tell him you were talking about him.
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Feb 20, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
I have all three, and at the time it was the most comprehensive large area guide. If you were on a road trip to one of those destinations it was all you needed. I was fumbling around on the Black Wall at Donner. When we went to the bar afterwards a Brit had that book. It had a picture with the right perspective.

I think John did a fantastic job covering a huge amount of climbing area. Thanks for reminding me to dig them out
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 20, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
Met Harlin in Chattanooga in like 85 or something - Southern Rock climbers coalition meeting or some such sh#t. Had the guide book in hand the day I landed in California.

Nice dude. He wrote a great book about Eiger and his pop, too, check it out.

DMT
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
I've got both the first and second editions. Nice work. I always think of the photo with his dog at Indian rock.
carter

Trad climber
Fremont, CA
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:24am PT
I just picked up the second edition at Half Price Books the other day. I was excited to have finally found a copy. I remember checking it out at the library when I lived in California.
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