Chimney Practice at Sugar Loaf. Route Questions

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2013 - 02:00am PT
I'm wanting to head up to Sugar Loaf soon and want to do some chimney climbing. I haven't really had a chance to do much chimney climbing in my short climbing history.

I was checking out the SuperTopo and was thinking about starting with West Chimney then moving on to Scheister.

The ST beta had a quote about the crux after the chimney on West Chimney being funky. Does anyone know about this section? Was it just funky for them because it was the 50s? If it is a bit of decently protectable 5.8 then I'm not too worried.

Thanks, Tye
schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Feb 19, 2013 - 03:31am PT
its a really short and pretty straightforward hand/fist crack. it is right off a ledge but takes good gear. kind of physical. its over after that - all 3rd/4th class.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Feb 19, 2013 - 05:04am PT
you should jump right onto self abuse.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 19, 2013 - 08:08am PT
Paging Norwegian....



Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:27am PT
Hardings chimney IS interesting...
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:31am PT
east chimney - west chimney - scheister - hardings chimney
-the fly - podium - the fang - tm's deviation - self abuse -
fat merchant crack.

in that order.

let me know if you ever want a partner.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:32am PT
If you get to the Valley jump on the "Left Side of Moby Dick." Nice and flared.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Nice.

Thanks Schwortz- sounds perfect

Bergbryce- I was thinking about TRing self abuse... top looks pretty miserable though... since I'm 6' 195...

Norwegian- Thanks. I'm going to start ticking those off. Not too stoked about a 50' runout on Harding's Chimney.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
Norwegian- Where is East Chimney? I can't find it on my SuperTopo book
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
east chimney starts up
between lurch and dominion.
it cuts out right,
below the "helmet"

i believe it's graded 5.6 or 5.7
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
ron,
after you clip the second pin in the chimney,
there's no gear until the anchor (about 50')

it's pretty easy thru there.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Yea, all I know is that the beta from SuperTopo says " 50' " runout on the chimney. I'm sure I would be fine but 50'runout in print tends to make my junk shrink up just a bit...
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Thanks Ron-

It will be 4th on my list per The Norwegian so I should be mentally prepared for a bit of easy runout. I'll just make sure I am not being belayed by my GF. She likes to shout stuff up at you like "do you think that is safe?"

BTW- Nice Pics
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
5.7 chimney in Split Rock.
It's a back on one wall both feet straight out on the other.
Slight run out. Great climb. Protected with bolts all the way up.
Somebody added some TR bolts at the top

It's the rock right below Pony Express
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
ya... anything X (ST rating) is staying off my tick list :-)
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Ron- Well, that's one of the reasons that I wish I would have gotten into climbing when I was in my more life-endangering 20's. I just got introduced to climbing in the last 2yrs and I tend to approach things now with a bit more slow deliberation. I will eventually run things out a bit more but I'm not there yet. I do way more dangerous and stupid things on a mountain bike for sure.
I am glad to know that I'm already leading moderate trad that scares the crap out of some sport climbers. I finished a single pitch 5.7 at Lover's Leap and saw a locking biner on one of the 3 face bolts... went down to the bar at the Strawberry Lodge and two girls from Bend were telling me about how they left it and bailed because they got freaked out.... but they totally sport climb 5.11a/b at home...
I do like adventure.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Nope... And one of them had one of those wonky eyes that drift on you while you are talking... a bit unnerving
Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
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