Chimney Practice at Sugar Loaf. Route Questions

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
I'm wanting to head up to Sugar Loaf soon and want to do some chimney climbing. I haven't really had a chance to do much chimney climbing in my short climbing history.

I was checking out the SuperTopo and was thinking about starting with West Chimney then moving on to Scheister.

The ST beta had a quote about the crux after the chimney on West Chimney being funky. Does anyone know about this section? Was it just funky for them because it was the 50s? If it is a bit of decently protectable 5.8 then I'm not too worried.

Thanks, Tye
schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:31am PT
its a really short and pretty straightforward hand/fist crack. it is right off a ledge but takes good gear. kind of physical. its over after that - all 3rd/4th class.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:04am PT
you should jump right onto self abuse.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 19, 2013 - 05:08am PT
Paging Norwegian....



Photo credit.. er. not me.
Photo credit.. er. not me.
Credit: justthemaid
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 07:17am PT
Hardings chimney is interesting as well..
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 19, 2013 - 07:27am PT
Hardings chimney IS interesting...
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 07:31am PT
east chimney - west chimney - scheister - hardings chimney
-the fly - podium - the fang - tm's deviation - self abuse -
fat merchant crack.

in that order.

let me know if you ever want a partner.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 19, 2013 - 07:32am PT
If you get to the Valley jump on the "Left Side of Moby Dick." Nice and flared.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 09:53am PT
Nice.

Thanks Schwortz- sounds perfect

Bergbryce- I was thinking about TRing self abuse... top looks pretty miserable though... since I'm 6' 195...

Norwegian- Thanks. I'm going to start ticking those off. Not too stoked about a 50' runout on Harding's Chimney.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 09:56am PT
Hardings chimney is a piece o cake. I really dont remember any hairy runouts.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 09:58am PT
Norwegian- Where is East Chimney? I can't find it on my SuperTopo book
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:24am PT
for the life of me, i remember no runout on hardings chimney to speak of.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:30am PT
east chimney starts up
between lurch and dominion.
it cuts out right,
below the "helmet"

i believe it's graded 5.6 or 5.7
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:34am PT
Weeg,, 50 runout on hardings??
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:38am PT
ron,
after you clip the second pin in the chimney,
there's no gear until the anchor (about 50')

it's pretty easy thru there.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:58am PT
I guess i just dont remember it as a run out then.

Credit: Ron Anderson
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 11:05am PT
Yea, all I know is that the beta from SuperTopo says " 50' " runout on the chimney. I'm sure I would be fine but 50'runout in print tends to make my junk shrink up just a bit...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 11:06am PT
i dont think youd fall out of that one.. I first led it about a century ago in EBs, hexes and stoppers..

Credit: Ron Anderson

heres shiester- we seemed to be conservative with pro bitd.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Thanks Ron-

It will be 4th on my list per The Norwegian so I should be mentally prepared for a bit of easy runout. I'll just make sure I am not being belayed by my GF. She likes to shout stuff up at you like "do you think that is safe?"

BTW- Nice Pics
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Yes, youd likely get stuck in it rather than falling out.;-) That LOAF is a wonderful place! But FMC,, is,, well,, FRIGGIN BRUTAL! The WEEG soloed it..(crazy baztid!)
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