Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 19, 2013 - 02:00am PT
I'm wanting to head up to Sugar Loaf soon and want to do some chimney climbing. I haven't really had a chance to do much chimney climbing in my short climbing history.
I was checking out the SuperTopo and was thinking about starting with West Chimney then moving on to Scheister.
The ST beta had a quote about the crux after the chimney on West Chimney being funky. Does anyone know about this section? Was it just funky for them because it was the 50s? If it is a bit of decently protectable 5.8 then I'm not too worried.
It will be 4th on my list per The Norwegian so I should be mentally prepared for a bit of easy runout. I'll just make sure I am not being belayed by my GF. She likes to shout stuff up at you like "do you think that is safe?"
Ron- Well, that's one of the reasons that I wish I would have gotten into climbing when I was in my more life-endangering 20's. I just got introduced to climbing in the last 2yrs and I tend to approach things now with a bit more slow deliberation. I will eventually run things out a bit more but I'm not there yet. I do way more dangerous and stupid things on a mountain bike for sure.
I am glad to know that I'm already leading moderate trad that scares the crap out of some sport climbers. I finished a single pitch 5.7 at Lover's Leap and saw a locking biner on one of the 3 face bolts... went down to the bar at the Strawberry Lodge and two girls from Bend were telling me about how they left it and bailed because they got freaked out.... but they totally sport climb 5.11a/b at home...
I do like adventure.