TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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I'm wanting to head up to Sugar Loaf soon and want to do some chimney climbing. I haven't really had a chance to do much chimney climbing in my short climbing history.
I was checking out the SuperTopo and was thinking about starting with West Chimney then moving on to Scheister.
The ST beta had a quote about the crux after the chimney on West Chimney being funky. Does anyone know about this section? Was it just funky for them because it was the 50s? If it is a bit of decently protectable 5.8 then I'm not too worried.
Thanks, Tye
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schwortz
Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
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Feb 19, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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its a really short and pretty straightforward hand/fist crack. it is right off a ledge but takes good gear. kind of physical. its over after that - all 3rd/4th class.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Feb 19, 2013 - 02:04am PT
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you should jump right onto self abuse.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 19, 2013 - 05:08am PT
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Paging Norwegian....
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Feb 19, 2013 - 07:17am PT
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Hardings chimney is interesting as well..
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Feb 19, 2013 - 07:27am PT
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Hardings chimney IS interesting...
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Feb 19, 2013 - 07:31am PT
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east chimney - west chimney - scheister - hardings chimney
-the fly - podium - the fang - tm's deviation - self abuse -
fat merchant crack.
in that order.
let me know if you ever want a partner.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 19, 2013 - 07:32am PT
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If you get to the Valley jump on the "Left Side of Moby Dick." Nice and flared.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 09:53am PT
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Nice.
Thanks Schwortz- sounds perfect
Bergbryce- I was thinking about TRing self abuse... top looks pretty miserable though... since I'm 6' 195...
Norwegian- Thanks. I'm going to start ticking those off. Not too stoked about a 50' runout on Harding's Chimney.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Feb 19, 2013 - 09:56am PT
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Hardings chimney is a piece o cake. I really dont remember any hairy runouts.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 09:58am PT
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Norwegian- Where is East Chimney? I can't find it on my SuperTopo book
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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for the life of me, i remember no runout on hardings chimney to speak of.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:30am PT
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east chimney starts up
between lurch and dominion.
it cuts out right,
below the "helmet"
i believe it's graded 5.6 or 5.7
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:34am PT
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Weeg,, 50 runout on hardings??
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:38am PT
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ron,
after you clip the second pin in the chimney,
there's no gear until the anchor (about 50')
it's pretty easy thru there.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Feb 19, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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I guess i just dont remember it as a run out then.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 11:05am PT
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Yea, all I know is that the beta from SuperTopo says " 50' " runout on the chimney. I'm sure I would be fine but 50'runout in print tends to make my junk shrink up just a bit...
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Feb 19, 2013 - 11:06am PT
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i dont think youd fall out of that one.. I first led it about a century ago in EBs, hexes and stoppers..
heres shiester- we seemed to be conservative with pro bitd.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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Thanks Ron-
It will be 4th on my list per The Norwegian so I should be mentally prepared for a bit of easy runout. I'll just make sure I am not being belayed by my GF. She likes to shout stuff up at you like "do you think that is safe?"
BTW- Nice Pics
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Feb 19, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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Yes, youd likely get stuck in it rather than falling out.;-) That LOAF is a wonderful place! But FMC,, is,, well,, FRIGGIN BRUTAL! The WEEG soloed it..(crazy baztid!)
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SuperTopo on the Web
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