Weight and gear

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
ThomasKeefer

Trad climber
San Diego
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 11, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
So I have read the PMI study and understand fall factors but does anyone have any definitive beta on impact of climber weight on gear stability?
For example, the tests are conducted with 80kg mass falls but in practice how many people, with gear on, weigh this little? Especially on overnight trips.

What is the current school of thought on weight (either in spent beer or extra gear) and when to worry about gear stability in relatively solid rock?
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
Thomas, the physics of gear and how equipment is presented in 2013 is truly empirical as it concerns it's use.

That said, the climbing equipment on offer today, compared to what was on offer in 1978, when I first climbed is of a quality that the old stuff really can't compete with. The old stuff was pretty good though.

What really matters is what never changes and that is sharp edges the climbing medium has as a property.

There's no better way to be safer than taking into account, where you are.
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Feb 11, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
My name is Wedgy. I weighed 210lb solid as a rock.
Guess how I got my nick name ?? I preferred 3/8" stainless hardware. Partners usually met me about half way up.
JimT

climber
Munich
Feb 11, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
The 80kg rigid test mass used was chosen after considerable testing as representing a ca.100kg climber in a harness.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 12, 2013 - 06:51am PT
80kg?
Inflation on the standard 70k man? Keeping up with the times....
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:00am PT
Fat guys (like me) should not ever fall on gear!!!LOL
Not too bad for an old fat guy. <br/>
I love this sh!t and regret my 30 ye...
Not too bad for an old fat guy.
I love this sh!t and regret my 30 year hiatus.
Credit: T Hocking
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:09am PT
Found this, which has a handy chart:

What Heavy climbers need to know.
http://www.paci.com.au/downloads_public/PPE/04_HeavyClimbersBeware.pdf

According to the article, a 300lb climber could generate 13.5kN fall in a very bad (1.7 factor) fall.

BD stoppers are rated at 6-10kN, Camalots are rated 8-14kN, so in theory a very big guy with an extraordinary amount of gear taking a hard fall would break just about any anchor consisting of a single piece.



T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:32am PT
Dave, thanks for the pfd file link.
Big guys take note.
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Feb 12, 2013 - 07:48am PT
What Daves link really shows is that the worst kind of falls to take are those close to the anchor with very little rope out. You don't have to be big to break gear when the fall factor increases. The hard thing for most people to realize is that is puts less force on the gear to take a 40 footer at the end of a long pitch (150ft) than is would be to take a 10 foot fall close to the anchor because there isn't enough rope in the system to absorb the force and as a result there is a lot more force put on that piece. It all comes back to the length of the fall/amount of rope in the system.

Although I've got to admit the difference between the 176 lb and 225 pound climber is more than I would have guessed
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