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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 8, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
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Mid year of 2012 I took a fall from a highball boulder and missed the pad and injured my ankle. The injury healed fast but my fear from the fall did not, I learned a lot of valuable lessons from the fall, which caused me to adjust my technique, training exercises, and fear control. Here is a video of the fall and blog link to the story:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
http://bowshaaa.blogspot.com/2013/01/getting-over-fear-after-fall.html
I wanted to share this because I would like to hear others' stories or accounts of any fears or injuries (falls or tendon injuries, etc) due to climbing and what they did to overcome them. Thanks in advance for any responses!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Check out the book, The Rock Warrior's Way.
A great read for developing mental coolness.
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weezy
climber
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i love hiphop. if for no other reason than it pisses off old white people.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Really, it's as simple as mind over matter. I understand that it's cliche, but oh well.
I've bailed from 15-20 feet up and broken an ankle, a coule of times. The key is to just go back as soon as you're healthy and send it. Put it to bed.
Just breathe, focus, and ignore the pain potential. You'll be fine.
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
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Yeah yeah i know, no one likes the music haha, i was limited with editing and music choice experience when I made this video, that was another lesson I have learned.
@roxy thanks for the suggestion!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
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@weezy agree hah!
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
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@Brandon, yeah that's what I did but sometimes people have a harder time getting over falls when rock climbing. Do you still have fear when you climb, worry about breaking it again? Do you still climb high problems?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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I took about an eight-foot fall onto a padded landing in the gym about a year ago and severed my Achilles tendon as a result. I finally got permission to boulder again a couple of months ago, and it took me quite a while to be willing to fall two feet, so I understand the fear all too well. I'd taken a very scary head-first leader fall in spring of 1971, and it took me five or six months to get my leading confidence back.
All this means I appreciate this thread and your photo and link, because I've been there. Ultimately, though, I come back to something Chouinard wrote almost 50 years ago. Falls tend to build confidence [provided you're unhurt]. At my age, I need to be judicious about where and how far I fall (for example, I can't do highball boulder problems any more without risking serious injury), but I found taking a few shorter fall off of boulder problems helped me regain my bouldering confidence, and a few safe and well-protected leads got my leading confidence back.
Thanks again for the thread and your post.
John
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Was that hip hop? Or was it soul train trance electronica?
Sorry about your ankle bro. Heal up strong.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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I don't let falls or injuries color my mind when I find myself in similar situations. That would be detrimental.
An acceptance of pain as normal helps.
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ruppell
climber
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John pretty much nails it. Lots of pads and lots of falls. Eventually you'll learn again that falling is usually safe. I broke my heel two years ago now and after it healed I went right back after it. It took a few weeks to trust my body, my spotters, and the pads. After those few weeks that trust was there again. Now highballs are like they used to be. Also learn to downclimb if your not feeling it. There's no shame in backing off.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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The spotter was sure helpful. ;)
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Breath, and focus. Thats what I do. Also don't imagine falling. And don't let go...
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
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Great stories, glad to hear that people have adapted or found ways over it.
@Chinchen, I did get over the fear and still climb highball problems, but thanks for sharing that vid, looks like an awesome problem, would love to try it!
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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After three twisted ankles from falling off boulder problems (once while landing square on a pad) I load my pad and quit bouldering.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Chinchen, that is THE BEST V5 I've been on ever. Nice vid of it. I suck at the dyno though so I come in from the left, techy crimp way.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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"i love hiphop. if for no other reason than it pisses off old white people."
I remember feeling that way about music choices.
In high school.
Edit: Is the 'spotter' in the above pic using some kind of anti-Magneto-repellent force? Isn't that considered aid?
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bowshaaa
Boulder climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
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@dingus milktoast, great story of your falls, sorry about your ankle but glad to hear you're back at it. I've known people to get hurt sport climbing and I know it can be just as dangerous. I always have the fear of decking until the 3rd bolt, then the fear subsides. Co-existence with fear I think everyone has to have in order to climb harder more difficult routes. Thanks for sharing!
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