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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Feb 6, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
Driving to Red Rocks tomorrow night. So beyond psyched.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 6, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Wendell Broussard (The Dean) doesn't post on here, but if you spend any time at Desert Rock Sports you will likely meet him, he's there almost every day. I can learn more talking to Wendell for an hour then days on the rock. Have also been honored to climb with him a few times. He's happy to take anyone out just about any time. In his 70s and still can climb a lot of us into the ground.

One of my favorite stories with Wendell was when we were climbing at Brass Wall. A visiting couple had just finished Topless Twins and were enthusing to Wendell about the route.

He let them go on for a while, then grins and shrugs and says "Yeah, I thought it was pretty good when I put it up in '86...."

Harrison used to climb at the gym a lot, but I haven't been there in a long time so I am not sure what he is up to these days, I know he was under the weather for a while. Always been cool to me when I have talked to him.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Feb 6, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
You'll need a copy of the Handren guidebook if you don't have one.
It's got some excellent historical information concerning climbing in the area which makes it an even sweeter guidebook. It's not a bad place to start.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Feb 6, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
There is a pretty good history written by Joanne Urioste in Alpinist a few years ago.

Wendell also has some pretty cool old Vegas stories including some classic extra-curricular activities.
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Feb 6, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
I found this cool thing on an approach to the Blood Wall on the Cactus Flower Tower. A welded chainlink to a sharpened screw with goldline girthed to it. I would love to know who made this thing. George and Joanne didn't know.
Red Rock Relic 1
Red Rock Relic 1
Credit: Texplorer

Found this cool hand drilled out hex complete with goldline and steel rap ring on a recon day with Joseph Healy and Larry DeAngelo. We had hiked up past the Basin Wall on Wilson and were coming down a gulley on the face to the soutch of Lady Wilson's Cleavage. I did some sketchy downclimbing to be able to retrieve this thing but it was worth it. George Urioste had said it looked like something guy he used to know would do that was also a cyclist. I have forgotten the name. Still a pretty cool find.
Red Rock Relic II
Red Rock Relic II
Credit: Texplorer
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 6, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
Credit: philo
Here's a good start for history.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 6, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
Man, some of the best written history, ever, on Red Rock was right here on Supertopo.
Philo scrubbed it, right? Some of those stories made it into Alpinist if I'm correct. Killer reading.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Feb 6, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
Wendell also has some pretty cool old Vegas stories including some classic extra-curricular activities.

Ask him about the time he knocked this Mob dude out in the middle of the casino....

Wendell is the man.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 7, 2013 - 05:04am PT
Hey it is George Urioste's birthday today. He is 76 and still getting after it.


Here are some stories for you WML.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=747131&tn=0
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 7, 2013 - 07:22am PT


Texplorer: I did some sketchy downclimbing

Dude, that was sketchy all the way up, and ridiculously sketchy coming down. I'm not even going to get into the tale of how we ended up heading up there with a single 7.8mm and a handful of gear, or how we were lucky to still have our shoe laces when we got down after using up our slings on all the manky non-load-bearing shrubberies.



Texplorer: I have forgotten the name.

I believe Joanne said 'Max' and meant it in sort of a 'Mad Max' sort of way...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 7, 2013 - 10:08am PT
This thread has some awesome potential.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
That alpinist profile was exceptional. Would love to know more about RR history as well. One of my favorite places to climb.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Feb 7, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Philo, from the first page of that link, who is "flamer"?

Burning curiosity compelled me to ask in behalf of De Flames.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 7, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
You forgot Jay Smith.....lot's of FA's almost all excellent quality.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 10, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
These pics are from the first continuous ascent of Eagle Dance in 1980. Jorge and Joanne had just put it up over several efforts and were finishing up their work establishing Levitation 29 while we were giving this, their other classic route, a big nod of approval. The camera I took these pics with was an old el cheepo Instamatic - I really was a dirtbag and couldn't afford a real camera - that ended up in the detritus of my climbing gear for almost two decades before I refound it and had the film developed.
That trip, that had us doing Eagle Dance as well as putting up the Resolution Arete, Gwondonaland Boogie and a bundle of other fair to middling routes, has almost no photographic record. To my knowledge only these and a few others exist.

Credit: philo
Credit: philo
Credit: philo
Credit: philo
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Feb 12, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Love the history. Thanks for sharing those photos.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 12, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
I will post up a story about Eagle Dance when I get some time.
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