Dinosaur Rock... downstream rocks?

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hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 22, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Living in Carson City, Dinosaur Rock is one of the closest crags. I know it all goes clean; but has anyone messed around with anything downstream? Nothing in my guide book. Thinking of trying aid climbing on the downstream stuff, if nobody would mind.
Here's a couple pictures from last time there and some of the rock I'm talking about.
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Missing photo ID#283590
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Missing photo ID#285797
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Missing photo ID#285805
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Missing photo ID#285806
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 22, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
Looks like YACP! (Yet another choss pile)

Go get some.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:42am PT
Sweet. You're all more interested in personal attacks on the posters of the BOOBS thread, and guns. Guess I can nail up whatever I want. Thanks!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:53am PT
Dude, you're a little sensitive. If you had actually left ST, you wouldn't have to ask permission here to f*#k up the rock.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:55am PT
The lower pic is "the black wall" I put up a 5.6/7 on it in the mid 70s.

The next pic up also has a 5.8/9 route up the obvious crack/corner in the middle. In addition, there are small sattelite crags above those that have also been done. There are more routes just upstream from DIno - about 1/4 mile as well. One OBVIOUS one is a flat wall with a ziggy zaggy looking WYDE crack that was 5.11 that faces upstream....
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
That's what I'm looking for. I don't want to "f*$k up" a bunch of known routes. Problem is, they're not in the guide books. So if not, then it looks like open season. That's why I asked. Not training for a known route, trying to learn good pin placements for some canyoning and/or alpine stuff way out in the middle of Nevada and/or California. This area happens to be close to me and tall enough to get more experience than the 20ft choss pile above my house. Knowing now that there are established routes, I'll avoid it. Satisfied?

Sensitive? Yah, maybe. Then again, I didn't nuke the BOOBS thread, nor am I really offended that it's gone. It was just a matter of time on a climbing site visited by multiple nationalities and such varied sensitivities.

But hey, sure... I could leave and just nail up whatever the f*&k looks good to me, if that's what you really want. It's not like I'm out bolting a bunch of s&*t. Go look up all the debates over guns, boobs, bolts, etc. Check out the first page of the forum and tell me again how sensitive I am for not really being excited about wading through all the b.s. just to get a little climbing info...? I bet a s*&t ton of y'all would be real sensitive if I showed up at your local crag and started pounding away. Talk about sensitive!

Quite frankly, I don't blame people like Lolli for leaving and pulling their posts. Makes a helluva better statement than mine.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Does it matter?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Okay. I don't really care about the latest drama here either other than to point and laugh. I don't see what that has to do with nailing up other peoples' routes.

I don't see the use of nailing up routes with subpar military pitons in the first place, you'd probably be better off aspring to learn how to aid clean, it seems to work for Mark Hudon and others.

It's pretty easy to set up solo systems for that too, if you are having partner problems.

From my outsiders perspective, you seem to be fixated on a practice that just isn't the way the big boys are doing things anymore and it pisses people off to see rock destruction where it doesn't have to be. Jus' sayin'.

Maybe Ron or others know a rock more suitable to your needs and that wouldn't result in altering existing routes.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
Good God. The point is to not nail up other people's routes. But hey, maybe we can get some good debate of the entire ethics of nailing vs clean, eh? That could be fun.

By the way, when I started here I had a much better attitude. Now it's about half "I don't give a f*&k" directly due to the way some have responded to me on this site. FYI
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
Milsurp pins are cheap. I'm trying to learn placement with what I can afford.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
I'm sorry that ST beat down you down so severely to cause your loss in faith in humanity. There are as WML pointed out, Teddy Bears to relate to instead. Animal hoarding is comforting too, I hear.

We are trying to instill the good sense that in an area rife with climbers that, yes, that obvious roadside crag you are looking at probably has been climbed. Sorry. You clearly aren't asking yourself if your antiquated ethics are worth it, so you'd probably be best quitting the site again and doing what you want without getting your feelings hurt again and invoking Lolli or whatever as some sort of argument.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
Do you even recognize your own attitude? I came with a simple question, got it answered, and you choose to flame me. Nice!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
Yeah, I have a total weiner dude attitude. Don't worry, I pinch myself when I write such atrocity.

Do you have free aid dialed yet though? Seriously, it seems a shame to hammer out some cracks when you are unlikely to ever get to the big show in the first place.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
Hey, can we shift the discussion to your thoughts on bolted sport routes that won't take any natural pro? Just how DO you feel about those?
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
Don't worry, I'll start more threads like this with pictures asking "hey, has anyone ever climbed this or can I nail it?" so that:

a: more discriminating climbers such as yourselves can flame me for using antiquated techniques and materials

b: someone might recognize the area and recommend elsewhere, though "a" seems a bit more likely
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
No, I mostly just have feelings about nailing up obvious routes that have already seen an FA.

Great, looking forward to your chosspile by elimation threads. Why not ask where you CAN do this? I'm not flaming on nailing, I just don't think you know what you're doing when you identify obvious roadside rocks as a suitable destination.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
BTW- Thanks Ron. Otherwise, I'd be out there running pins into something I shouldn't.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Yeah. That's true. I don't know what I'm doing. That's why I asked. I did buy the guidebook. Unfortunately, those routes Ron mentioned are not in it.

Why should I assume every rock that exists has ever been climbed? I've seen other people post asking bout FA's etc. I've seen the bolt war threads and how people react to anything iffy. It just seems easier to throw a picture up here with the simple question I asked at the beginning. And look what it turns into!

"yer using antique pins and methods? Oh my god! Yer an insolent assbag who can't understand that everything next to the road is a known route whether listed or not and yer gonna die while you f&*k up the rock!"
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
He's a post away from hammering your FAs folks! Watch out, the mad hammerer is loose! Post up your choss or risk mil surplus!

What a joke for some pretend big wall. I'd like to see your big Big Wall post with you nailing up the proud stuff in the next year, or you're just another poser with a teddy bear.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Jan 23, 2013 - 12:50pm PT
My arm... it's riddled with blisters now.
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