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Conrad
climber
MT
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Let's hope Karen and Sue amble into base camp with a good story and that they haven't been lost to the mountain.
Foraker is a dangerous mountain with a fair amount objective hazard. Sue is a fun and motivated climber.
I hope they are with us.
Conrad
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2006 - 02:10am PT
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I dont know either one of these two. I thought people around here might, and would like to know. Hopin for the best.
Alex
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Oh man, this is not good. Especially after what was in the Vail article and the NPS about finding gear at the base. Let hope this is just an aw sh#t of dropped pack. I meet Sue and Karen after our attempt on the Spur in 04. They had just come down off of the Cassin. They were pretty tired but doing their thing and seemed no worse for the wear considering what they hung out in while on the route. They certainly have their head about themselves on the mtn. Sue and John are super nice folks - they get out have and fun.
BTW - while I chatted with Sue about the Cassin she notted that part of their slowness was due to some unclear info Colby's book on the Cassin. My partner and I both laughed as the day before we had noted the same thing about his discription. That said the Joe's Supertopo discription of the Cassin is spot on and is exactly like I remember it. Especially because they did the route three weeks after we did and still found our platforms.
Here is a related rescue off of Hunter
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Regarding the Sue Nott and Karen McNeill epic on Foraker I'm in touch with people who know the facts and the facts are that as of 8am this morning there were tracks above 16,000 feet on the Infinate Spur. The park service hasn't been able to make any real search efforts from the air due to high winds but the visability is clear and hence the tracks were clearly seen. From this high point it is possible to descent on any number of routes the most likely being Sultana Ridge which they haven't searched yet. No one is presently on the Sultana. Right now the park service is taking John Varco and another concerned climber for a search an rescue ride.
Let's hope the winds have died down enough where they'll have some good news. These are two tough ladies and if anyone can pull through it will be them. WEather forecast is for clear weather today and into tomorrow. I'll post more as I learn more.
Jack
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Lets hope for fresh tracks and good weather and conditions!
-Brian in SLC
(0 for 2 on Foraker)
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2006 - 12:50pm PT
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Thanks Jack.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Damn...I knew Sue briefly. Seemed to be a real fine woman. And talk about "tough," To get back on the ice the way she did after that big chunk fell on her.
Lets hope some good news comes out soon.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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regards Sue and Karen,
It's 4:15pm and the latest I know isn't much different than earlier. Attempts at flying the Puma above Foraker this afternoon have again been hampered due to high winds. Darryl Miller, McKinley park superintendant and the person in charge of the rescue effort, has informed me that they are going to continue in their efforts to locate Sue and Karen. Mark Westman and John Varco both continue to go up in the Puma in the chance that the helicopter can land and they can maybe get out and make a close inspection.
The latest thinking is that Sue and Karen were planning on descending the Sultana Ridge. Sue is familar with the route and it is the most logical, safest and fastest way off the mountain. The park service is going to focus their efforts on this part of the mountain right now. The big concern is that Sue and Karen have been up on the route now for over 23 days with only about 8-10 gas cartridges. They most likely have been out of fuel and food for awhile. The contents of the pack and the pack that were found in the deposition zone by the ridge have been identified positively as Sue's. It's a good sign that tracks were seen above the last bivouac site and that the major difficulties lay below. Above 16,000 the snow slopes are lower angle with no major obstacles. Everyone is still hoping that they are on the descent and have just been pinned down due to high winds and low energy.
That's all for the moment.
Jack
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Jack, what do they have in their possession right now...that you know of?
Thanks for any info...I am concerned about Sue.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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We're not really sure how much gear they left with. We are sure that in their possession now there is a single wall tent, a stove, maybe a sleeping bag, etc. About what one person would normaly take in an alpine ascent of the Infinite Spur. Unfortunately Sue's sleeping bag and extra clothing was in her pack that was lost.
In the weather that has scrapped the mountain for the past five days they may just have hunkered down in a cave until the weather improved. I'll know more tomorrow morning. Right now not much can be done for them. Send some good energy.
Jack
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I met Sue a few times (mostly in the designator ampitheatre)when I lived in Vail. I'm thinking good thoughts.
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roslyn
Trad climber
washington
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bump
any news?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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This is the latest I've found on the NPS site. It is starting to look very sad.
press release
Office of the Superintendent . Denali National Park, AK 99755 . www.nps.gov/dena
Contact: Kris Fister For Immediate Release
(907) 733-9103 Date: June 5, 2006
No Significant Clues Found in Fifth Day of Search for Missing Climbers
A fifth day of aerial searching for climbers Karen McNeill and Sue Nott turned up no new clues as to their location, in spite of excellent visibility and flying conditions. Clear skies and calm winds allowed personnel in the NPS-contracted high-altitude Lama helicopter and the park’s Husky airplane to thoroughly investigate the area in the vicinity of the Foraker summit, the climbing team’s planned exit route on the Sultana Ridge and the glaciers north and south of the peak. The team on the Lama was able to confirm the presence of tracks at the 15,500-15,800 foot elevation on Foraker, but could see no tracks going toward the summit. Searchers on the Lama also checked the area at the base of the avalanche chute where Nott’s backpack and some of its contents had been discovered during previous days’ search efforts, but no new items were seen.
New aerial resources will be involved in tomorrow’s activities, as the Lama helicopter will not be available due to a required rest period for the pilot. Two Chinook helicopters from Company B, 1 st Battalion, 52 nd Aviation Regiment’s High Altitude Rescue Team based at Fort Wainwright and an Aerostar from ERA will be utilized to carry out the continued search of high probability areas.
A weak weather front is forecast to enter the area on Tuesday, bringing with it clouds, increased winds and a chance of snow at the higher elevations.
McNeill, age 37 of Canmore, Alberta, Canada and Nott, age 36 of Vail, Colorado left the base camp at the 7,200’ elevation on Mt. McKinley on May 12 and began their climb of the Infinite Spur on May 14. Both are highly skilled technical climbers, with years of experience in the Alaska Range.
-NPS-
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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There's always hope.
Thoughts.
H.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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To very one concerned:
I can't shed much more light on the situation. The park is still trying to get a helicoptter into the air and continue the search. From what I've been told there isn't much more information on Sue or Karen. Time is their enemy now. time and the weather.
Let's hope for the best. I'll continue posting when I find out more information.
Jack
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kevelyn
Ice climber
Long Valley,NJ
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I had the pleasure of meeting Karen on a Chicks with Picks climb in New Hampshire. She is one tough cookie, and has returned from many a wicked high place...I hope and pray that she and Sue will return home safe to us.
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Tom M
climber
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http://www.nps.gov/dena/home/news/index.htm
Latest news has been posted
Date: June 6, 2006
10:00am
New Tracks Shift Focus of Search for Missing Climbers on Foraker
The verification of new track sightings at the 16,400’ elevation on Mount Foraker was confirmed Monday evening when search personnel were able to closely analyze digital photographs that were taken from the NPS-contracted high-altitude Lama during yesterday’s search operations.
This new discovery has shifted today’s search efforts for Karen McNeill and Sue Nott to focus on the area just below the south summit of Foraker. Two Chinook helicopters from Company B, 1 st Battalion, 52 nd Aviation Regiment based at Fort Wainwright are expected in Talkeetna by late morning, and will be utilized for today’s search effort. An Aerostar helicopter from ERA Helicopter Division is already on site and will be used initially to remove the team of observers from a camp near the base of Mount Foraker.
Flying conditions are good this morning, as it is mostly clear and winds are calm. A layer of overcast at 11,000 feet is not expected to seriously impede search activity. The forecast is for increasing clouds, with a chance of snow.
Additional information will be provided when it becomes available, or at the end of today’s operational period.
-NPS-
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