TR on the FA of El Pilar del Sol Naciente, Patagonia


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Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2013 - 11:38am PT
In Decemeber a Franco-Spaniard team climbed what Rolando Garibotti would call ‘the climb of the season’ on Cerro Murallón. A stunning 1000m buttress in a remote and hard to access part of Argentine / Chilean Patagonia, the story of the climb is so good that I’ve just translated it as is. What makes it so amazing is how different it was from a standard Patagonian trip where ‘epics’ are rarely had nowadays and the onus is on light and fast alpinism- Cerro Murallón would prove the real McCoy expedition deal.

A proud ascent made by an incredibly well rounded team. Lise's TR is definitely worth a read.

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 11:41am PT
Man, talk about a beautiful line!
I'd say it is more than the climb of this season - maybe the last 5 or 10?

How did they beat Donini to it?

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
In the time since I posted the only response to this there have been
13 posts to the Morons Attacked In Peru thread! That's a sad commentary.

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Jan 7, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Holy crap !...nice pics and an amazing looking line in an amazing place !
bump for climbing
john hansen

Jan 7, 2013 - 02:00pm PT
Good story.
Thanks for posting

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
That corner looks incredible.
Thanks for the link.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
Thank you for posting, that's awesome!
Timid TopRope

Social climber
'used to be Paradise, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Getting across that glacier would be an epic achievement for me. Real teamwork in action getting to base, up and back down. Good advice: use restraint at the all you can eat buffet after exertion on a low calorie-ration diet.
Sounds like the pulled block, chopped rope, whipper in the dark, etc. could have made this a tragedy instead of a triumph. Well written TR with cool pics.

A long way from where I started
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
I don't get it Reilly. I looked at the TR, and couldn't find the link to send them money.

And it didn't look like been whipped by anything more than the wind. And all we've got to go on is their side of the story. Maybe things will look different when a team of international journalists goes down there and interviews the rock.

Kidding aside, awesome adventure!


Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 7, 2013 - 02:25pm PT

Not enuff pix................

Must be saving them for the money making tour..................

Jan 7, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Looks frosty. Donate for a new camera !? They don't need no steekin compressor.

Seriously Nice.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Thank you very much for that link. What a line! I particularly loved that picture of the snow on the portaledges, and that M6 WI6 pitch looked amazing.

Thanks again.


Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
very good. that glaier looks heinous
Big Mike

Trad climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
Hardcore ascent! Well done. Nice story, thanks for the link.

Oakland, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
We were disgusted! I have never lived through such a long sunrise in my life!

Fifteen bolts over 21 pitches, 1000m, and 9 days. That is impressive to me.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 03:51pm PT


Thanks for sharing, Shino!

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jan 7, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
Hey Shino, how're you doing-did you get some more great Sierra climbs in over the last summer? thanks for posting the link, looks amazing/sounds epic!

Jan 7, 2013 - 04:11pm PT

That's legit.

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Jan 7, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
Man- sometimes I feel like such a stone cutter and then I get reminded that I am so weak sauce.


Boulder climber
Jan 7, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
Just got to Calafate.....maybe ill run into them...lots goodness in these hills!!

Edited to say that route looks awesome!!
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