oh ICE boys/gals~~

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2012 - 11:38am PT
Just a heads up FRANKTOWN FALLS may be in condition this week through at least weds/thurs..


This STILL awaits a second ascent from 1978...


Paul Crafton coming up over the lip of the vertical sec below  140 fee...
Paul Crafton coming up over the lip of the vertical sec below 140 feet long..
Credit: Ron Anderson



on the top easy ground of franktown falls..
on the top easy ground of franktown falls..
Credit: Ron Anderson


Credit: Ron Anderson


The willows on the right in the pic were used to rap into the hole to start the vert section..


Temps for the next few days will be single digits for lows--It will be in great shape..

This is a RARE NEVADA frozen fall- at probably the lowest altitude of them all. Hidden in a tight canyon at 5300'..Just above washoe valley to the west.. If you want a nice waterfall,, NO CROWDS and very good thick ice with bulges - a vert section followed by a nice 50 degree top section for about 140' then this is the easiest bet there is for Reno/Carson/Gville climbers..


the temp went to 7 this am just as the sun rose..
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Dec 31, 2012 - 12:09pm PT
Well, someone better get after it while it lasts!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 31, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
I'm game, anyone else interested?
I've got everything, even a 2nd set of tools and crampons, but you need at least a tad bit of ice experience.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
for anyone serious,, take FRanktown road off of OLD 395 in washoe valley- at the NORTH juntion of Franktown rd -- go south on franktown then a right onto OLDS RANCH rd - take that to the top of scattered houses and find a place to park at the top of that hill. Hike directly west over the top of the short rise (avaoiding residential property) and DROP into the canyon-and franktown creek-- The falls start at some large outcrops of granite and the approach should only take 30 minutes or so.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 31, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
Hmm looks WI3-4ish eh? Fun!

Grr..... I lost one of my crampons during a move. But hey I'm available Wednesday if someone is going. I can certainly belay slave and take pics. Hell mebbe I'll go for it with one crampon lol

Edit

hey Berg looks like you got the stuff I need. Been a few years for me on Ice so not up for leads ATM, but I grew up with it BITD in Alaska. If Wednesday works I'd love to go.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 31, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Wednesday or Friday are the best for me and I'll take a stab at the lead.
I need an earlish start, say meeting at 8 am as I need to be back at work by 1p. Where is a good place to meet in that area? I'll be coming from South Lake.


Climb2ski.... lets treat it like its RIPPLE!!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 31, 2012 - 01:05pm PT
Ron, does it get much sun?
Is the access an issue or are the houses easy to avoid?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 01:13pm PT
The last time i was up there --there was still access between lots off of olds ranch road. The falls themselves see only an hour or two of sun on the top section, none on the bottom this time of year. But the sun can warm the creek upstream of the falls if it warms too much.. Early starts are good. The falls face North.. Ill try to post a google earth photo of the area..
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Dec 31, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
"most important tool for a Cali ice climber is a fast car"
someone said that
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 31, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
I am surprised it was not climbed last year.?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
Credit: Ron Anderson



Ive identified possible parking areas as well as the general area of the falls..



EDIT: the actual falls may be slightly more towards the lower left corner of the pic- than my gen area indicates...




edit: Mtrophy,, this is a hidden thing- and has remained so for a long time.. Seems to have stayed local knowledge for ever lol!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Dec 31, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
Hey berg sounds great. Pm your number through this forum I'll call this evening and we can figure it out.

Ripple too cool, I was thinking of it immediately when I saw Rons pics... brings back memories of some good days in Eklutna Canyon.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
you guys can go to google earth to look closer- at the houses -properties etc. hard to pick out the actual falls from the arial view though- but in fairly close. If one stays along the top of the ridge- looking down into the creek canyon, the large out crops at the top of the fall will be obvious..There is a large FLAT "lunch rock" at the top right side of the fall- a place where we used to do over-nighter partys ..It was a regular hang bitd..




Credit: Ron Anderson


Red circle indicates where i THINK it is on google earth
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
Dec 31, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
How tall is the lower steeper part? Wondering if it would be a reasonable solo?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 31, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
Man, yous guys are desperate! Icy chaparral, indeed!

Sent from my iPhone in Norge
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
as far as the rating of it,,,i NEVER knew diddly poop about Ice ratings.. Some of them were HARD, others SCARY and some FUN..3 ratings is all i ever needed !


So in that light, the bottom of the route was a bit scary -vert-with bulges then the top half was fun- rolling bulges going up a 50 degree granite ramp.

Gear used during the FA : Salewa hinged crampons - Lowa Alpspitz boots, Chouinard super gators, smc customized axe, chounaird alpine hammer/tool (customized), Salewa ice screws and even an OLD Stubai "corkscrew".


Edit: the lower section in 50 to 60' and the upper is about the same.. Even in good condition, one will hear water running inside on normal water years.



So hers a little story,, of the FA in 1978. We met in the wee hours, Paul Crafton, Greg Bergren and myself. At arriving in the parking area, i was still somewhat groggy. So i decided to take a CROSS TOP,, remember those? So we start hiking, and somewhere near the top of the slight ridge on the approach,,i began to break into a sweat!!! It was like ZERO,, fresh snow and my head is running like niagra falls,, and my heart began to beat like a base drum.. I finally take off my coat,, lay down in the snow and begin to cover myslef in an attempt the thwart the ill affects of that speed! Yup,, im rolling around in the snow while my buddies begin to wonder if im gonna croak-LMAO!! So I countered it with a bowl of ganja- and soon im on an "even keel" as it were. Twas THE last time i ever took one of those bad boyz...

Approach beta: When descending into the canyon, at the top of the falls- carefully cross the top at the outcrops- a belay may be needed, then head down the western side of the falls and rap from trees or willows down into the "hole" of the bottom of the falls to start the route. Or hike along the west side of the canyon until you can scramble down into the creek..
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
bump- for time critical factor-
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 31, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
I'll bring all my irrigation hose.....place will be ouraaaaaay in a week!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 31, 2012 - 07:30pm PT
I think its called irritation hose

hows the kid???
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
Well, today through the next five or so, daytime temps will be into the 40s-
So,,,,getterdone quick, or wait till the next big freeze...
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