U Joints ?? (OT)

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Ron Anderson

Trad climber

Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 10, 2012 - 12:57pm PT

Im trying to replace the u joints on my rear axle,, 88 chevy blazer full size. No big vice either,, i USED to pund them out, but this one isnt doing it- its a factory nylon seal job on these.. Whats the best method to get em off!?

Russ Walling

Social climber

from Poofters Froth, Wyoming

Dec 10, 2012 - 12:57pm PT

You got a multi-meter?

Brandon-

climber

The Granite State.

Dec 10, 2012 - 12:59pm PT

Does your flux capacitor run on three phase?

zardoz

Trad climber

Denver, Colorado

Dec 10, 2012 - 12:59pm PT

Looks like you are going to have to find a vice to press them out. You might be able to rent a tool for that, too. I pounded mine out of my Trooper years ago, but it was still a PITA. A real press would be nice.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 01:01pm PT

Ive torched the snot out of the nylon keepers bu they refuse to boil out of the hole.. Causing me some gaaareif it is lol!

Gene

climber

Dec 10, 2012 - 01:02pm PT

Removal & Installation
There are three types of U-joints used in these trucks. The first is held together by wire snaprings in the yokes. The second type is held together with injection molded plastic retainer rings. This type cannot be reassembled with the same parts, once disassembled. However, repair kits are available. The third type (4-wheel drive models only) is the large constant velocity joint which looks like a double U-joint, located at the transfer case end of the front driveshaft.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

■Double Cardan Joint
■Molded Retainer Type
■Snapring Type

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Which one do you have?

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 01:16pm PT

Gene they are the factory u joints with the plastic nylon injected keepers- ive melted those out but the u joint still wont budge via a hammer.

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Dec 10, 2012 - 01:19pm PT

Forget the blazer...Get out the sleds....RJ

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Dec 10, 2012 - 01:20pm PT

Ron...are they rusted in...? RJ

Brandon-

climber

The Granite State.

Dec 10, 2012 - 01:22pm PT

Is your sledgehammer metric or SAE?

Gene

climber

Dec 10, 2012 - 01:23pm PT

Check your email.

g

Chewybacca

Trad climber

Montana, Whitefish

Dec 10, 2012 - 01:30pm PT

I use a ball-joint press for my stubborn u-joints.

If you can't borrow one from a friend, some shops (like autozone) will loan them out. I bought one for around $250, it has paid for itself many times over. I know it sounds funny but I wouldn't waste my time with a u-joint press, not strong enough for the tough joints. A ball-joint press is far stronger.

I just did my front axle u-joints on one of my Jeeps this weekend. Even with the right tools it can be a sucky job.

Good luck Ron.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 01:35pm PT

yep ive pounded till im blue in the face- torched ALL the nylon that would squirt out of em... Sheesh i hate monkey wrenchin..;-/

rottingjohnny

Sport climber

mammoth lakes ca

Dec 10, 2012 - 01:36pm PT

Ron...Brandons right about the sledge hammer but try using a laser guided model...More accurate...RJ

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Dec 10, 2012 - 02:03pm PT

The U joint forks will flex and bind as you try to press them out.

Even just the weight of the drive shaft hanging in the wrong orientation will be enough.

I've got by with various size sockets or pieces of pipe and a big vise.
the trick is geting a straight push with no stress on the fork at all.
A little Liquid Wrench as well.

never had to deal with plastic inserts though.
Wouldn't take much hanging in the circlip grove or even just a burr to hang things up.