Stonemasters Article in R&I

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Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 27, 2006 - 08:07pm PT
John, that was an incredible read! I especially enjoyed the expose' on Tobin. Of all the climbers that have passed away, he is probably the one I would most like to have met. What an intriguing character. I especially liked the line, "His impulses always toggled between a wildcat and a saint, but when Tobin tied into a rope he was all wildcat." Kind of describes me in reverse.

BTW John, I just picked up old VHS copies of "The Art of Leading" and "Basic Rockclimbing" on the discard table at a climbing shop. Are they worth watching? :)
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2006 - 09:41pm PT
The other one that jumped out me was, "...Tobin had some strange and dreadful need to square off with his maker every time out."

I knew a guy like that when I was in my 20's. I wonder if he met the same fate as Tobin...
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
May 28, 2006 - 12:25am PT
Once at a bivy on some climb that I can't clearly remember now other than it was something insignificant and had turned into a mini epic, (neither one of us really knew what we were doing), Tobin remarked that he really admired my climbing.

I was struck silent for an instant and then told him that he was more talented and skilled after a few months at it than I'd ever be or anyone I knew for that matter. His reply was that I didn't understand.

You are just having fun at this!

I have to do this!

I've had the honor of knowing several other athletes in other disciplines that performed at the world class level and that is the one thing that separates them from the rest of us.

They have to do it!

Don't know where that comes from. I am sure there is no single source. With Tobin I have my theories but respect him and his family enough to not engage in amateur psycoanalysis, at least in public.

Lets just leave it at honoring that drive and the legacy it produces.

Still, "having fun at it" almost every weekend in complete gumby style creaking joints and all.
10b4me

Trad climber
Poserville
May 28, 2006 - 07:34pm PT
BTW John, I just picked up old VHS copies of "The Art of Leading" and "Basic Rockclimbing"

Jody, Basic Rockclimbing is a hoot.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 29, 2006 - 12:44am PT
I read the remainder of Stonemasters in the john tonight and I nearly collapsed as I got up from my legs falling asleep.

I am turning 40 this year and have been struggling with memories of the past lately. I was never a great climber but considered myself a adventurer of the obscure. From climbing Mendenhalls routes on the backside of Strawberry Peak to racking up several kayaking first descents of overlooked creeks in Southern California.

10 years and 30lbs later I find myself longing to repeat those feats. Once in a blue moon when I do get the time to get out there and repeat the past I always come away feeling short changed. It wasnt until I read the line about playing grabass with the past that I realized why. I had been going out trying to relive the past instead of savoring the now and drinking up every new experience.

The feeling in my legs is just about back now.

Thanks,

Kevin
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2006 - 01:13am PT
Kevin, that was a great post! I can especially relate to this line, "10 years and 30lbs later..."

I have never been a great climber either. My adventure has generally been limited to easy climbs on obscure peaks in the Sierra, usually solo(I am too lazy to haul in gear on my back). You know, peaks with names like 10,320' and 12,343' etc.

I sometimes get depressed when I hear my dad talking about the adventures of the "Good Old Days" when he climbed with Gill, Unsoeld, et al. But your admonishment about just savoring the "here and now" is well taken. I need to dwell on that aspect more.

Glad you didn't meet Elvis' fate while reading that article.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
May 29, 2006 - 02:47am PT
Zen, and zen with a goal that is not obsessive to your detriment.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
May 29, 2006 - 03:01am PT
Batrock, turning 54 this year (and there are plenty of other folks older than me here) and just got up from the toilet trying to remember when I was 40. I'm coming off 6 months of staying off my shoulder and have to lose the weight yet again myself. Get off yer ass, lose the the weight, and take advantage of it all while you're still young...
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
May 29, 2006 - 01:52pm PT
Haven't seen this yet. R&I called me a while back with tons of questions though...can't wait to see it!

"Jeepers Wally, those Stonemasters are scary looking."
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 29, 2006 - 02:16pm PT
Scary Looking Indeed:

Say what Buddy?
You Talkin' Teh Me?!
Come a little closer...

bachar man, bwahahaha.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 29, 2006 - 03:43pm PT
Healyje,

I'm tryin man. I had back surgery a few years back and have never been the same, kinda through me for a loop. The back injury combined with a former active lifestyle made for a bad combo. I am slowly starting to lose the weight again. I am planning on spending some time exploring a untouched valley near Bishop this summer climbing and flyfishing and it's not in the Sierra's:) Thats why this article was timely for me, to remind me to stop living in the past and look forward to the future.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 29, 2006 - 03:47pm PT
"untouched valley near bishop"
that sounds outstanding and worth looking forward to...
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 29, 2006 - 05:20pm PT
Tarbuster,

I'm not saying anymore than that. It may be known to some locals but not many. I'm taking my dad and my kids up there to do some climbing. My dad got me into climbing and I am kinda repaying him the favor and introducing it to my kids now.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 29, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
Good for you Batrock.
Stick the knife of good living to the hilt I say.
I'm a long way from Bishop and somewhat struggling with living in the past myself.
Even so, I still get out and have a lot of fun.
Cheers,
Happy Holiday!
Jody

Mountain climber
Templeton, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2006 - 07:28pm PT
Bump
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
May 30, 2006 - 08:09pm PT
Nobody else read it?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
May 31, 2006 - 11:53am PT
Does this mean I need to find a new obsession now? Cuz drywall and spackle sure ain't cuttin it.

Rob, still dreaming of grabass, at 37.
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
May 31, 2006 - 12:09pm PT
I no longer open the pages of R&I or Climbing even if given the opportunity to do so at no cost. Is this article in the latest R&I? I'll make a point of reading it (JL's stuff is always worth the read).

I guess I've been lucky enough to avoid surgery of any kind, kids and other life occurances that otherwise might "slow me down". I feel pretty good as I turn 40 in mid-july. I've certainly abused my body over the years and the joints are getting a bit creaky at times. The rest of my family has done a fine job of turning/getting old so I don't think genetics is at play here. The difference I think is attitude and healthy diet.

Batrock - I'd love to hear about your SoCal first decents. Boating is working it's way back into my life. I hope this doesn't mean another hiatus from climbing.
billygoat

climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
May 31, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
Okay, I'm lost. Will someone please say what issue number this article is in. The R&I website doesn't list in at all in the current issue...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 31, 2006 - 02:35pm PT
The cover has a picture of Dave Graham doing a Wicked high ball on a big sandstone Boulder, looks like flash was used. Crash pad, spotter.
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