What Are Some Of The Most Overrated Climbs in Yosemite/Tuolu

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wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
We always hear about the sandbags and how most are underrated. So What are some of the most overrated? My vote goes to The Boltway on Stately....No way it's 10a. I rate it 9.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:24am PT
The other day I had to explain to someone that Snake Dike was not really "5.7R". It's 5.7 + 5.4R. The 5.7 friction move is very well protected, and the run-outs on the dike are so easy, you can almost climb them blindfolded.

Ironically, the crux of Snake Dike might just be the long, final stretch of 3rd class slab.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:28am PT
Bishops Terrace


Oh overrated that way.
No idea.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:58am PT
Regular Route on Fairview and Steck Salathe get more than their fair share of accolades.

Great lines, so-so climbing overall.


Reeds Direct is OK, but that's about it. I like the first pitch best.

Central Pillar's got the money pitch and that little 5.8 roof, but.... nice line, so-so climbing - why all the fuss?

Ahab's not that hard.

Neither is New D, Cramming, Leanie Meanie, Edge of Night.

South Crack and The Yawn are great lines, but kinda boring climbing.


Midterm kinda sux - too slippery and wedged out.



There's way more underrated routes, especially quality wise.

Climbers are like people - most of them do what all the rest do...

On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
Dec 6, 2012 - 01:05am PT
Super Slide is super soft.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Dec 6, 2012 - 01:24am PT
Crack-n-up ...
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Dec 6, 2012 - 01:48am PT
Summit block of Cathedral Pk is deemed 4th class, but that seems like a stretch. Never seen anyone up there tied in.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:33am PT
I always felt lucky to be climbing in the Valley.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:47am PT
Agree that Tenaya Peak is super easy, but man, also agree that it is a total fun place to be and would do it again in a heartbeat. Great views. I think it would be a great intro for a beginner to get a feel for longer alpine climbs.

Eric
raymond phule

climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:58am PT
I didn't think that the east buttress of middle cathedral was a very good climb.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Dec 6, 2012 - 04:46am PT
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 6, 2012 - 10:01am PT
Yes, hard to think of the overrated climbs in that area.... I can think of a few overhyped climbs. Rumors of greatness build impossible expectation. But when a climb exceeds those expectations, or the experience somehow transcends all expectation.... that's what we're all looking for, I'd guess.
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 6, 2012 - 10:52am PT
I thought Boltway was 5.7/5.8. At least it was when I climbed it.
Byran

climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
Most of the ones I can think of that are overrated (in terms of difficulty) are size dependent. Serenity Crack, The Rostrum, Fish Crack, are all pretty light for the grade unless you have sausage fingers. Zorro is sort of famous for being the easiest V4 in the Valley...

And I also concur that Tenaya is pretty much 4th class (and only 3rd class for the first half), with some short sections of easy 5th that you could probably avoid if you want to.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
10b4me....if you keep climbing up past the belay near the bottom of the crack which most people use to finish West Country, Boltway, etc. there are some bolts continuing up the face. That's why there's a 5.8/5.10 rating. Just thought it might be interesting to find the overrated ones.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.

+1

I think of it this way because there is no climb I've done that I felt disappointed after doing it. Then again I'm a starved weekend warrior and never gave myself the chance to immerse in a sea of opportunity and really develop my climbing palette.
weezy

climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
Not Yose/TM, but there's a "5.10+" hand crack on the far right side of the Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek called Warm-Up crack. I'm in no way a sandbagger but even calling this thing 5.9+ is generous.

Sorry for the desert derail...
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 6, 2012 - 05:23pm PT
I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Dec 6, 2012 - 06:11pm PT

OK I think we've thrashed that one to death.

Who are the most over weight climbers in yosemite / Tuolomne?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 6, 2012 - 06:19pm PT
I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.


That is a sexy looking crack, good to know it might be in my range after all.
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