wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
|
We always hear about the sandbags and how most are underrated. So What are some of the most overrated? My vote goes to The Boltway on Stately....No way it's 10a. I rate it 9.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
The other day I had to explain to someone that Snake Dike was not really "5.7R". It's 5.7 + 5.4R. The 5.7 friction move is very well protected, and the run-outs on the dike are so easy, you can almost climb them blindfolded.
Ironically, the crux of Snake Dike might just be the long, final stretch of 3rd class slab.
|
|
bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
|
|
Bishops Terrace
Oh overrated that way.
No idea.
|
|
The Warbler
climber
the edge of America
|
|
Regular Route on Fairview and Steck Salathe get more than their fair share of accolades.
Great lines, so-so climbing overall.
Reeds Direct is OK, but that's about it. I like the first pitch best.
Central Pillar's got the money pitch and that little 5.8 roof, but.... nice line, so-so climbing - why all the fuss?
Ahab's not that hard.
Neither is New D, Cramming, Leanie Meanie, Edge of Night.
South Crack and The Yawn are great lines, but kinda boring climbing.
Midterm kinda sux - too slippery and wedged out.
There's way more underrated routes, especially quality wise.
Climbers are like people - most of them do what all the rest do...
|
|
Donald Thompson
Trad climber
Los Angeles,CA
|
|
The 5.7 friction move is very well protected, and the run-outs on the dike are so easy, you can almost climb them blindfolded.
On the day we did Snake Dike the wind was ferocious. And later on lightening strikes and static electricity permeated the air. Doing that route blindfolded under those conditions would have been hair-ball, to say the least.
We decided to almost crawl with bowed heads up the friction pitches.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
Crack-n-up ...
|
|
TMJesse
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
|
|
Summit block of Cathedral Pk is deemed 4th class, but that seems like a stretch. Never seen anyone up there tied in.
|
|
Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
|
|
South Crack..basically a 5.6 slab route..with some easy crack
Tenaya is a class 4 scramble...still awesome
And I will go with The Reg in Fairview as well....basically an ok alpine route with a few feet of classic crack climbing...
Still all amazing climbs....
If I were to pick one that is still underrated it would be Snake Dike....that's just a legendary climb.....nothing like that in the world..if you climb one moderate that has to be it
edit - I remember some run out 5.5 stuff - I mean it is easy for a real solid leader - but you are stil way, way out on easy ground...pretty much free soloing....I lead all the pitches and I didn't find it boring at all..
|
|
Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
|
|
I always felt lucky to be climbing in the Valley.
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
|
|
Agree that Tenaya Peak is super easy, but man, also agree that it is a total fun place to be and would do it again in a heartbeat. Great views. I think it would be a great intro for a beginner to get a feel for longer alpine climbs.
Eric
|
|
raymond phule
climber
|
|
I didn't think that the east buttress of middle cathedral was a very good climb.
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.
|
|
Jebus H Bomz
climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
|
|
Yes, hard to think of the overrated climbs in that area.... I can think of a few overhyped climbs. Rumors of greatness build impossible expectation. But when a climb exceeds those expectations, or the experience somehow transcends all expectation.... that's what we're all looking for, I'd guess.
|
|
10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
|
|
I thought Boltway was 5.7/5.8. At least it was when I climbed it.
|
|
Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
|
|
Most of the ones I can think of that are overrated (in terms of difficulty) are size dependent. Serenity Crack, The Rostrum, Fish Crack, are all pretty light for the grade unless you have sausage fingers. Zorro is sort of famous for being the easiest V4 in the Valley...
And I also concur that Tenaya is pretty much 4th class (and only 3rd class for the first half), with some short sections of easy 5th that you could probably avoid if you want to.
|
|
wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 11:02am PT
|
10b4me....if you keep climbing up past the belay near the bottom of the crack which most people use to finish West Country, Boltway, etc. there are some bolts continuing up the face. That's why there's a 5.8/5.10 rating. Just thought it might be interesting to find the overrated ones.
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.
+1
I think of it this way because there is no climb I've done that I felt disappointed after doing it. Then again I'm a starved weekend warrior and never gave myself the chance to immerse in a sea of opportunity and really develop my climbing palette.
|
|
weezy
climber
|
|
Not Yose/TM, but there's a "5.10+" hand crack on the far right side of the Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek called Warm-Up crack. I'm in no way a sandbagger but even calling this thing 5.9+ is generous.
Sorry for the desert derail...
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!