What Are Some Of The Most Overrated Climbs in Yosemite/Tuolu


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Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
We always hear about the sandbags and how most are underrated. So What are some of the most overrated? My vote goes to The Boltway on Stately....No way it's 10a. I rate it 9.

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:24pm PT
The other day I had to explain to someone that Snake Dike was not really "5.7R". It's 5.7 + 5.4R. The 5.7 friction move is very well protected, and the run-outs on the dike are so easy, you can almost climb them blindfolded.

Ironically, the crux of Snake Dike might just be the long, final stretch of 3rd class slab.

Mountain climber
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
Bishops Terrace

Oh overrated that way.
No idea.
The Warbler

the edge of America
Dec 5, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Regular Route on Fairview and Steck Salathe get more than their fair share of accolades.

Great lines, so-so climbing overall.

Reeds Direct is OK, but that's about it. I like the first pitch best.

Central Pillar's got the money pitch and that little 5.8 roof, but.... nice line, so-so climbing - why all the fuss?

Ahab's not that hard.

Neither is New D, Cramming, Leanie Meanie, Edge of Night.

South Crack and The Yawn are great lines, but kinda boring climbing.

Midterm kinda sux - too slippery and wedged out.

There's way more underrated routes, especially quality wise.

Climbers are like people - most of them do what all the rest do...

On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
Super Slide is super soft.
Donald Thompson

Trad climber
Los Angeles,CA
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
The 5.7 friction move is very well protected, and the run-outs on the dike are so easy, you can almost climb them blindfolded.

On the day we did Snake Dike the wind was ferocious. And later on lightening strikes and static electricity permeated the air. Doing that route blindfolded under those conditions would have been hair-ball, to say the least.
We decided to almost crawl with bowed heads up the friction pitches.

Gym climber
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
Crack-n-up ...

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Dec 5, 2012 - 10:48pm PT
Summit block of Cathedral Pk is deemed 4th class, but that seems like a stretch. Never seen anyone up there tied in.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Dec 5, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
South Crack..basically a 5.6 slab route..with some easy crack

Tenaya is a class 4 scramble...still awesome

And I will go with The Reg in Fairview as well....basically an ok alpine route with a few feet of classic crack climbing...

Still all amazing climbs....

If I were to pick one that is still underrated it would be Snake Dike....that's just a legendary climb.....nothing like that in the world..if you climb one moderate that has to be it
edit - I remember some run out 5.5 stuff - I mean it is easy for a real solid leader - but you are stil way, way out on easy ground...pretty much free soloing....I lead all the pitches and I didn't find it boring at all..
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Dec 5, 2012 - 11:33pm PT
I always felt lucky to be climbing in the Valley.

Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
Dec 5, 2012 - 11:47pm PT
Agree that Tenaya Peak is super easy, but man, also agree that it is a total fun place to be and would do it again in a heartbeat. Great views. I think it would be a great intro for a beginner to get a feel for longer alpine climbs.

raymond phule

Dec 5, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
I didn't think that the east buttress of middle cathedral was a very good climb.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
Dec 6, 2012 - 01:46am PT
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.
Jebus H Bomz

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Dec 6, 2012 - 07:01am PT
Yes, hard to think of the overrated climbs in that area.... I can think of a few overhyped climbs. Rumors of greatness build impossible expectation. But when a climb exceeds those expectations, or the experience somehow transcends all expectation.... that's what we're all looking for, I'd guess.

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Dec 6, 2012 - 07:52am PT
I thought Boltway was 5.7/5.8. At least it was when I climbed it.

Yosemite Valley, CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 09:52am PT
Most of the ones I can think of that are overrated (in terms of difficulty) are size dependent. Serenity Crack, The Rostrum, Fish Crack, are all pretty light for the grade unless you have sausage fingers. Zorro is sort of famous for being the easiest V4 in the Valley...

And I also concur that Tenaya is pretty much 4th class (and only 3rd class for the first half), with some short sections of easy 5th that you could probably avoid if you want to.

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 11:02am PT
10b4me....if you keep climbing up past the belay near the bottom of the crack which most people use to finish West Country, Boltway, etc. there are some bolts continuing up the face. That's why there's a 5.8/5.10 rating. Just thought it might be interesting to find the overrated ones.

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 6, 2012 - 11:06am PT
Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.


I think of it this way because there is no climb I've done that I felt disappointed after doing it. Then again I'm a starved weekend warrior and never gave myself the chance to immerse in a sea of opportunity and really develop my climbing palette.

Dec 6, 2012 - 11:42am PT
Not Yose/TM, but there's a "5.10+" hand crack on the far right side of the Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek called Warm-Up crack. I'm in no way a sandbagger but even calling this thing 5.9+ is generous.

Sorry for the desert derail...

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Dec 6, 2012 - 02:23pm PT
I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.
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