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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 5, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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We always hear about the sandbags and how most are underrated. So What are some of the most overrated? My vote goes to The Boltway on Stately....No way it's 10a. I rate it 9.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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The other day I had to explain to someone that Snake Dike was not really "5.7R". It's 5.7 + 5.4R. The 5.7 friction move is very well protected, and the run-outs on the dike are so easy, you can almost climb them blindfolded.
Ironically, the crux of Snake Dike might just be the long, final stretch of 3rd class slab.
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bergbryce
Mountain climber
California
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Bishops Terrace
Oh overrated that way.
No idea.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Crack-n-up ...
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Summit block of Cathedral Pk is deemed 4th class, but that seems like a stretch. Never seen anyone up there tied in.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
The rock doesn't care what I think
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Agree that Tenaya Peak is super easy, but man, also agree that it is a total fun place to be and would do it again in a heartbeat. Great views. I think it would be a great intro for a beginner to get a feel for longer alpine climbs.
Eric
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raymond phule
climber
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I didn't think that the east buttress of middle cathedral was a very good climb.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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I thought Boltway was 5.7/5.8. At least it was when I climbed it.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Most of the ones I can think of that are overrated (in terms of difficulty) are size dependent. Serenity Crack, The Rostrum, Fish Crack, are all pretty light for the grade unless you have sausage fingers. Zorro is sort of famous for being the easiest V4 in the Valley...
And I also concur that Tenaya is pretty much 4th class (and only 3rd class for the first half), with some short sections of easy 5th that you could probably avoid if you want to.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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10b4me....if you keep climbing up past the belay near the bottom of the crack which most people use to finish West Country, Boltway, etc. there are some bolts continuing up the face. That's why there's a 5.8/5.10 rating. Just thought it might be interesting to find the overrated ones.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Can't think of any overrated Yosemite climbs, though many underrated climbs come to mind.
+1
I think of it this way because there is no climb I've done that I felt disappointed after doing it. Then again I'm a starved weekend warrior and never gave myself the chance to immerse in a sea of opportunity and really develop my climbing palette.
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weezy
climber
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Not Yose/TM, but there's a "5.10+" hand crack on the far right side of the Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek called Warm-Up crack. I'm in no way a sandbagger but even calling this thing 5.9+ is generous.
Sorry for the desert derail...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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I know this is an obscure one but I'd have to say that Death Crack in TM seems overrated at 5.11d. It is tough & challenging but IMHO no way 5.11d. I did it once with a cast on my left leg & a cutoff climbing shoe strapped to my leg cast, so how hard can it be? More like 5.11a.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Help me out here, are we talking overrated for difficulty or quality?
Most Valley climbs kick my sorry ass, especially the current version.
The off width on Blind Faith seemed a lot easier than Twilight Zone.
The NA was a classic outing but somewhat of a pile as an aid route.
PB
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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Overrated both in grade and in reputation....Can include ghosts as well where the climb is not nearly as hard or scary as it's rep.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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OK I think we've thrashed that one to death.
Who are the most over weight climbers in yosemite / Tuolomne?
Now we're talkin'
Pics of fat guys climbing really hard sh#t would be way more entertaining.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Maxine's Wall
and
+1 for Peruvian Flake
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