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Professor Fate
Big Wall climber
Vulgaria
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 26, 2006 - 02:34pm PT
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Wind Sand & Stars
I am looking for some up-to-date beta on this route in Kolob Canyon, Utah. I attempted it once back in mid 90's and got spanked.
I have been told by several that is is one of the very finest Sandstone routes of its length in the US. A real bump up from the likes of Cloud Tower at Red Rock. But also very doable with rock that is as solid or more so than Moonlight I finally have lucked into a strong enough partner to try to go back and give it a try.
~ Are there still some anchor issues on it?
~ Is the descent still to rap down the West Face?
~ Is it really as good as the hype?
If any of ye gods or mortals have been on it, or have any info to share, I thank you in advance for doing so.
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pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
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May 26, 2006 - 02:42pm PT
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I was there last year at this time with a friend of mine. the climbing was superb. have fun on the doable's
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 26, 2006 - 02:47pm PT
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name inspired from a work by St Exupery?
i look forward to some input on this climb.
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pyro
Trad climber
Ventura
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May 26, 2006 - 02:49pm PT
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I have some cool pic's of my partner. the sandstone gives a good shot!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 26, 2006 - 02:49pm PT
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The Kolob is actually an imaginary place that doesn't exist.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 26, 2006 - 02:52pm PT
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One of my old partners was way into the desert and we climbed a few new routes in Arches (way back when) near the road. He named them
Wind, Sand and Cars
Earth, Wind and Tire
Blood, Sweat and Gears.
Sorry for the thread drift this just reminded me!
Carry on and good luck!
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Professor Fate
Big Wall climber
Vulgaria
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2006 - 03:03pm PT
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Golson those are some funny names and not thread drifty is what I am hoping to talk about after all the other opry. I like it when people are creative like that and sometime you get a whole run of history when you look at guidebooks you can almost see the chain of thought the FA s must have had. I think the original name is taken from a book? It sure had an all star lineup on the FA and FFA. The name always sounded inspirational to me and reflected what I thought Kolob was all about. Whoever said it is an imaginary place.....totally it is. I am glad I got to have the fantasy.
My biggest concern is anchoring issues and what type of gear would be a "must have" in order to retreat or get down safely.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 26, 2006 - 03:49pm PT
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Yeah, it's named for that book.
we climbed a route to the right of that whose name I can't remember, but I think was Charlie Folwer's contribution to that "50 favorite climbs book." or, possibily I'm being cixelsid,again.
Fantastic route, but don't do it in November, I'm still shivering. The one asked about is supposed to be good, too.
Both are described somewhere, Desert Rock? maybe, I'm away from my library at present.
It would be apropo for us to have climbe Le Petit Prince, but I don't think that was the name.
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jbaker
Trad climber
Takoma Park, MD
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May 26, 2006 - 03:58pm PT
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Tarbuster has the source right. Antoine de Saint-Exupery was a French pilot in North Africa during the 20s and 30s, and later in the Spanish Civil War. He was killed flying in the Second World War. He wrote "Wind, Sand & Stars," a poetic description of his early years flying in North Africa, as well as "The Little Prince."
My father was a pilot in the 2nd World War and the Korean War. He didn't read much, but really loved the way "Wind, Sand & Stars" captured what he loved about flying. He gave me the book when I was ten or so. I didn't understand what it meant to him until much later.
It's a great name for a desert climb.
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Dru
climber
HELL, BABY, HELL!
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May 26, 2006 - 04:00pm PT
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An ascent of W, S and S was just reported in the latest R&I I believe...
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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May 26, 2006 - 04:04pm PT
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Another wild wall at the Kolob:
One of the most beautifully amazing places I have climbed.
Otherworldly.
Wind, Sand & Stars faces SOUTH so I would recommend getting on it soon before the scorching heat of summer makes it too intensely hot or waiting until for the cooler days of September to roll in.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 26, 2006 - 04:14pm PT
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there is an old R & I issue with an article by jeff lowe, titled wind sand and stars.
talks about climbs there with destiville and wilford.
maybe it's his route?
i'll look in my copy of desert rock (i don't think that covers the region?), plus look for the mag.
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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May 26, 2006 - 04:19pm PT
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It is a Jeff Lowe route and then he was also on the FFA with Steve Petro. 1991, I believe.
Catherine D was on the FA with Jeff. 1991
Lisa Gnade was on the FFA with Jeff & Steve. May 15, 1992
Look it up!
Tarbuster: I belive it is in the first edition desert Rock published in '96. Chockstone.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 26, 2006 - 04:24pm PT
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hmm,
my desert rock (bjornstad) was published in '88.
given my reference point, i guess its moot.
(did i bungle that j vawter?)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 26, 2006 - 04:25pm PT
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Jaybro! Jaybro! Jaybro!
Desert Rock? C'mon!
The 3B? (Bjornstad's Book of Bullpucky)
The Kolob IS an imaginary place.
But if it really DID exist the route you refer to would be something I started with Pat Miller in the 70s and returned to with Steve Johnson and Charlie in '92, then completed with the same team in '95.
Sunlight Buttress.
We rapped the route (better the devil you know) but some have descended the Tucker route on the W ridge/face.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 26, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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When Jeff and Catherine did WS&S they stayed at my place and I photographed them on the route. We even had radios (unusual then) and tried a time lapse headlamp shot.
I'm quite certain it was '92 (not '91). We also went to the Buckathon in St. George which turned into a display of carnage worthy of the Colliseum.
At one point they ran out of ambulances. We saw a guy get stomped in the chest by a bull 10m in front of us and you could hear the ribs crack.
Climbing is a pussy sport.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 26, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
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Sunlight Buttress! pretty cool for an imaginary voyage!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 26, 2006 - 04:39pm PT
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i wonder if the article is in the issue with jeff and catherine doing that aid route on moses.
rats; i tossed it a while back...
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Dr.Kodos
Trad climber
Tennessee
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May 26, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
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I am honored to be proven wrong by those who really know.
I admit my info on the route was gleaned through the book I mentioned. I have never been on it to make clear, but have looked at it in awe in the times I have climbed at Kolob and been humbled.
Silly me. I am still thinking Columbus discovered America as well.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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May 26, 2006 - 04:48pm PT
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nice of you dr kodos to respond to your own thread put up by prof fate...You like talking to yourself?
carry on....or should I say carrion...
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