When people quote wind speeds - call them on their bullsh*t

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GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2012 - 06:54pm PT
IT WAS RAGING 50-75 MILE AN HOUR WINDS!!!!!



How many times have you heard that?


Listen, we all like to make our stories sound amazing, and there is an art form to it. But if you make up a wind speed, and there's no societal price for fabrication, no longer will ACTUALLY KNOWING THE WINDSPEED mean anything in conversation.


Climbing in 25MPH gusts is f*#king impossible, and it sounds pathetic because asshats claim to climb in 60mph gusts at josh every tuesday.


Unless you got instruments, it just blew 'really hard.'


:) end rant!


(not directed at Cragman, haha I bet he actually DID measure it in that other thread, or knows what it feels like :D but you get my drift...)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 29, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
I agree. Hear it all the time. Especially 70-80mph. You have to really hold yourself to stay standing during gusts like that and people casually mention it like it aint sh#t.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
Haven't ya noticed that guys and girls often have a much different
description of how hard it blows?
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
Yeah a friend of mine remarked getting blown off the top of a peak but I guess I should have asked some follow-up questions... that can be interpreted a number of ways....
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Unless you got instruments, it just blew 'really hard.'

Yes. I was out at Moffett Field totally miserable, the winds were blowing so hard, they were about as hard as the worst winter days I've been out at Josh... maybe a little harder. The pilots and officials brought out the measuring equipment and declared 15mph with gusts to 25mph. Anymore than that, which does happen, and you can't stand up. :)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Use the Beaufort Scale, if you brought your tidebook to Josh.
QITNL

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
I guess you'd probably hate this site:
http://windmapper.com/?Loc=CA
Warning: contains people quoting wind speeds.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Why guess?

Credit: StahlBro
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
Warning: contains people quoting wind speeds.


If they are honest, then more power to them!


I've had sex with several small animals including a ground squirrel.

-QITNL

This is an example of a lie. gets annoying when people lie, I think.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2012 - 07:24pm PT
You know, that iPhone app is pretty bad-ass. But its like knowing the temperature.

It's just a number, and a number doesn't mean anything. 20mph in a T shirt in the desert in july, and 40mph in a down coat in winter, ya know? Same with temperate - doesn't matter what it says, I know when I'm cold and I know when I'm not. If it's fuggin freezing but the temperature is "only 65" I'll throw a coat on.


We're so attached to numbers, attached to quantifying... 10D or 10C... lol.

I'm probably the most guilty.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:33pm PT
I'm pretty sure that 45 knot wind @ sea level, on the beach, packs a bigger punch than 45 knots at say 10,000 ft. More mass there, MV is bigger.
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
There should be some nice rules of thumbs for climbers to use:

e.g. How windy is it when:
 your ropes blow sideways or up?
  Your balanced on your spread knees at a slabby belay and the wind keeps knocking you over every few seconds?
 you let go of the positive grips for upward movement in favor of sideways micro-crimps so the wind gusts won't launch you sideways?
 you can't speak with your partner at the same belay station unless you yell into cupped hands over their ears?
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:39pm PT
And wind speed isn't the relevant issue anyway. 10mph, 20, whatever, as long as it's constant, it's usually not a problem. The problem is changes in wind speed. Gusts. Lean hard into a 45mph wind and you can walk. Let that wind suddenly drop to 30mph and you're on your face on the ground.

Likewise for climbing. Up to a certain point, as long as the wind is constant, you can deal with it relatively easily. But let it suddenly gust, and you're flying.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:41pm PT
Last year we had a windstorm that was 80mph. It was the same day the big fire was blazing in Reno. I live on the east side of the Carson Valley facing directly west.

I let my dog out around 6am and the wind was blowing so hard that when I shut the door a vacuum went through the house and blew out the window in our bedroom.

Credit: dave goodwin

Credit: dave goodwin





Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
A friend of mine has an interesting account of a descent off Fitzroy. He was leading the rappels, as his partner had broken an ankle in a fall. A storm was breaking too. He said that repeatedly he would be rapping and get blown back up the wall by a gust and then dropped. Utterly wild.

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
Kneevada might blow but you have to live in Alaska or Tierra del Fuego/Patagonia
to know wind. Trust me.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 29, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
GDavis, you are correct...most people are clueless as to just how hard wind gusts are in reality.

Interestingly, they do the same thing with ice steepness when climbing, and snow steepness when descending.
sempervirens

climber
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
It gets damn windy on those politard threads, using the bloviator scale.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
When I was building Victory Lodge, I was pinned down at the job for 54 hours by a blizzard....even though home was only a mile away, I couldn't get there.

During the sustained winds we had during that storm, our anemometer failed....at 149 mph.

I tried running my loader during that storm....could not even see the bucket out in front of me. Stayed inside and just hunkered down....fully expecting the windows to blow in at any moment.
dave goodwin

climber
carson city, nv
Nov 29, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
I've lived in both Nevada and Alaska, and they both can have some mean winds. The worst winds I have experienced have been a North Taku wind coming of the Juneau Ice Cap. BRRRRRR!!

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