Worn Fixed gear can cut your rope.

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Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2012 - 09:20pm PT
Some interesting stuff from a post on Squamish Climbing

"In a recent study by Mammut, tests have show that some fixed carabiners (often found on steep sport crags) can be worn in to such a shape as to cut through your climbing rope in a fall as short as 2.7 metres.

....

Mammut is urgently calling for the immediate discontinuation of use and removal of permanently installed quick draws and carabiners in climbing areas. Irrespective of the manufacturer of such equipment, repeated wear can result in the formation of sharp edges capable of damaging or completely severing ropes, even in relatively small falls. Investigations by Mammut have shown that this known problem is actually far more dramatic than previously assumed and represents a very high risk for climbers."


http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67607
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:30pm PT
Who in the hell falls 2.7 meters? Bolts should be no more than 1m apart.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:35pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1985359

Happy (belated) birthday!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
can we start pulling them now?
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
That's the trouble with getting older, the mind goes before the gear fails! Missed your post Anders.
Thanks.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
Bolt hangers can also cut the rope.

Remove all bolt hangers, in the interest of safety.
splitter

Trad climber
da'Raven / Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 16, 2012 - 09:47pm PT
Posting something like this more than once (2 threads) is worth doing. Make sure everyone gets the message. I mean, you (OP) missed it somehow, so there could be others also. Hopefully they will catch this one, cud save someones life, eh?

edit: i'm not a sport-climber (since there are no 5.2 sport routes/but i led my first 5.3 trad route last weekend so i'll be there someday).

but, i do recognize them (sport-climbers) as people to! ...just sayin'!
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 16, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
We use Omega steel wiregate carabiners in the gym. 8 years later and they are still showing little wear, and definitely no sharp edges.

fwiw
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 16, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
That's an interesting article for sure thanks for posting Rolfr. I guess the moral of the story is that as climbers we need to be aware & responsible. Look at gear & change a biner if u need to, I always have a few old ones in the bottom of my bag for such an occasion. The main thing I learned here though is to not buy a mammut rope cause they can break in falls as small as 2.7m.
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
Nov 17, 2012 - 12:58am PT
It's probly more likely that any rope break in that short of a fall where the forces can be highest.

Mammut Supersafe is one of the best wall ropes I've used. Many pitches, many falls and many sharp edges. I have one that's been up three walls and stil looks brand freakin new.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Nov 17, 2012 - 02:36am PT
jungle chipmunks chew on the hardware to wear down their teeth,

anyways, carry on with the useless banter, im gonna fire up some oil, sit back and watch the dog and pony show,
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Nov 17, 2012 - 07:32am PT
Some guy in Europe just died from this. I think it's a concern. I dont know why my biners wear smooth from normal use, and the fixed ones these guys used got a sharp edge. It's hard to imagine. I have some biners with sharp burrs on them or edges of cuts in the metal, from dragging up walls or across granite, I think. But I have never had one damage the rope.

Seems to me the people who climb in areas with fixed gear should organize to maintain them, like people do with fixed pins, or replacing bolts on el Cap.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Nov 17, 2012 - 09:06am PT
I dont know why my biners wear smooth from normal use, and the fixed ones these guys used got a sharp edge.

From Black Diamond's QC Lap piece:

Which biners get badly grooved and why?

From my experience falling all over routes, all over the county, Iíve noticed three primary locations where fixed biners become badly grooved:
1) First Bolt
ē Belayers typically stand too far away from the wall. This results in a sharp angle in the rope from the belayer to the first biner and then up the route. When lowering a climber, the rope, often dirty and gritty, slowly wears a groove in the biner. Both incidents Iíve heard of where the rope was cut completely, it was the first bolt that was the culprit.
2) Crux Bolt
ē Many climbers being lowered off the same biner (falling at the crux onto the same bolt). This has the same effect as above. The sharp angle of the rope wrapping around the biner and the weight of the climber being lowered is what is allowing the rope to slowly cut through the biner.
3) Out of line bolts
ē Often if the bolt line isnít straight, an out-of-line biner can end up being grooved. Once again, this is caused by the rope and its angle running over the biner surface.
locker

Social climber
Nov 17, 2012 - 09:11am PT


"since there are no 5.2 sport routes/but i led my first 5.3 trad route last weekend so i'll be there someday"...


Impressive!!!...

If we ever climb together...

you're going to HAVE to do all the leading...


;-)





EDITED:


"im gonna fire up some oil, sit back and watch the dog and pony show,"...


LOL!!!...
locker

Social climber
Nov 17, 2012 - 09:15am PT

"Worn Fixed gear can cut your rope."...

So can a butter knife...

But chances of running into one on a climb is 1,000,000,000 - 1...

Chances of you SHARTING on a climb???...

1-1...

Now those are some odds!!!...

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