Mtn 54: A LAKELAND COMMENTARY

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Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic

Blakey

Trad climber

Sierra Vista

Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2012 - 06:10pm PT

This issue contained an important article on Lakeland climbing by a local activist, Rob Matheson, extensive, authoritive and informative, it was this sort of material that made Mountain stand above it's peers in the climbing media.

Rob continues to climb hard and can be found on Youtube demonstrating a hard lakes route - E7, I think. Way to Go!

Usual disclaimers; any objections and I'll pull the piece.

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

May 19, 2014 - 04:38pm PT

1802-1973 Scafell, Lake District, a hundred and seventy-one years of explorations (Mountain 30 1973)

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

May 19, 2014 - 04:39pm PT

1802-1973 Scafell a hundred and seventy-one years of explorations (Mountain 30 1973) continues:

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

May 19, 2014 - 04:39pm PT

1802-1973 Scafell a hundred and seventy-one years of explorations (Mountain 30 1973) continues:

crunch

Social climber

May 19, 2014 - 06:49pm PT

I remember that article well, blakey. Read and re-read it over and over, at the time.

it was a great day when I got to do Bitter Oasis. Wild route. Even better was my day of being the belayer for my friend's lead (name? Craig McAdam? or something like that, from Dumfries) of Dry Grasp. He tried and tried, kept falling/failing. I was watching carefully, so I offered to try the sharp end. Led it first go, kept going. Thirty feet up, no gear (I had not bothered to rack up) I had to stop at a good hold and, one handed, pull up yards of slack and haul a rack up for the rest of the pitch.

Kind of a high point of my free climbing, broke, on the dole, climbing every day. Later I saw pics in the magazines of Ed Cleasby falling off. Gave me pause. Maybe these guys in the mags aren't so superhuman?

Couple years later I went back to Dry Grasp and could not touch it.... been downhill but less broke, more fun ever since....

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

May 19, 2014 - 08:04pm PT

I also remember the article....really cool. Question....just had a copy of the really well done book "Peak Rock" sent to me and a number of climbs in the book as in the article are referred to as such and such's "masterpiece." Do brits use that term more loosely....I've never heard it used to describe a climb in the US.

crunch

Social climber

May 19, 2014 - 08:23pm PT

A "masterpiece" of a climb is one were many elements come together to form a balance that is cutting edge, high quality, visionary in many way, requiring great skill just to even see as lines.

In US, many great climbs are so obvious, striking cracks. Routefinding skills are not much needed.

Perhaps some of the great Kor lines, like Yellow Spur, Naked Edge, Finger of Fate?

Salathe Wall would be a masterpiece, with its complex yet perfect route finding. A perfect realization of a vision of what was possible, by the most skilled climber of that generation.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

May 19, 2014 - 08:27pm PT

I get it.

Blakey

Trad climber

Sierra Vista

Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 03:25am PT

I concur with Mr Crunch's appreciation.

Peak Rock is very good - I wonder if Steve Grossman has sourced a copy?

Steve

Marlow

Sport climber

OSLO

Oct 14, 2014 - 09:23am PT

Scafell - Oldschool

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Oct 14, 2014 - 09:31am PT

I only skimmed this very quickly but the thought that jumped out at me was that the standard of relying on skill and boldness set by those guys is so absent in most climbers, particularly newer climbers, today. Modern climbing (i.e., sport), in many ways has sucked the adventure out of the sport.

ROB MATHESON

Trad climber

cumbria uk

Dec 10, 2014 - 01:07pm PT

Good to read about 70's stuff again. Thanks Blakey. Was in the Valley in 75 for a few months and have loads of slides. Climbed with a few of the locals and have fond memories of camp 4 and on the edge behaviour. Looking at a slide showing John Long, Tobin Sorenson, Fred East, Billy Westbay, Mark Chapman, Ron Kauk and a few others you can half see !! Great Days!!

Blakey

Trad climber

Sierra Vista

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2014 - 02:29pm PT

Hi Rob,

Welcome to Supertopo - despite what my avatar suggests I lurk from my hovel near Hexham.

For US readers, Rob was a key Lakes activist and is still cranking way harder than his age should permit!

We met in passing once, a loong time ago - you won't remember!

Any historic material you have, be they photos or recollections about the valley and your contact with Mercins, climbing or social will be appreciated here...... As are any observations you have on the likes of the lakes Commentary......You must have some dirt to spill, surely!

;-)

Regards,

Steve