Mtn 54: A LAKELAND COMMENTARY

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
This issue contained an important article on Lakeland climbing by a local activist, Rob Matheson, extensive, authoritive and informative, it was this sort of material that made Mountain stand above it's peers in the climbing media.

Rob continues to climb hard and can be found on Youtube demonstrating a hard lakes route - E7, I think. Way to Go!

Usual disclaimers; any objections and I'll pull the piece.

Bill March on the first ascent of Cascade on Stag Rock Cairngorm. Dave...
Bill March on the first ascent of Cascade on Stag Rock Cairngorm. Dave Alcock photo
Credit: Blakey

Credit: Blakey

Ed Cleasby on Footless Crow, Goat Crag, Borrowdale.On of Livesey's mas...
Ed Cleasby on Footless Crow, Goat Crag, Borrowdale.On of Livesey's masterpieces of the 70s
Credit: Blakey

Credit: Blakey

Credit: Blakey

Credit: Blakey

Credit: Blakey

In Landscape - you'll just have to twist your heads!
In Landscape - you'll just have to twist your heads!
Credit: Blakey

Again in landscape - twist yer heads
Again in landscape - twist yer heads
Credit: Blakey

Credit: Blakey

Credit: Blakey
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 19, 2014 - 04:38pm PT

1802-1973 Scafell, Lake District, a hundred and seventy-one years of explorations (Mountain 30 1973)

Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 19, 2014 - 04:39pm PT

1802-1973 Scafell a hundred and seventy-one years of explorations (Mountain 30 1973) continues:
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
May 19, 2014 - 04:39pm PT

1802-1973 Scafell a hundred and seventy-one years of explorations (Mountain 30 1973) continues:
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
crunch

Social climber
CO
May 19, 2014 - 06:49pm PT
I remember that article well, blakey. Read and re-read it over and over, at the time.

it was a great day when I got to do Bitter Oasis. Wild route. Even better was my day of being the belayer for my friend's lead (name? Craig McAdam? or something like that, from Dumfries) of Dry Grasp. He tried and tried, kept falling/failing. I was watching carefully, so I offered to try the sharp end. Led it first go, kept going. Thirty feet up, no gear (I had not bothered to rack up) I had to stop at a good hold and, one handed, pull up yards of slack and haul a rack up for the rest of the pitch.

Kind of a high point of my free climbing, broke, on the dole, climbing every day. Later I saw pics in the magazines of Ed Cleasby falling off. Gave me pause. Maybe these guys in the mags aren't so superhuman?

Couple years later I went back to Dry Grasp and could not touch it.... been downhill but less broke, more fun ever since....
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 19, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
I also remember the article....really cool. Question....just had a copy of the really well done book "Peak Rock" sent to me and a number of climbs in the book as in the article are referred to as such and such's "masterpiece." Do brits use that term more loosely....I've never heard it used to describe a climb in the US.
crunch

Social climber
CO
May 19, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
A "masterpiece" of a climb is one were many elements come together to form a balance that is cutting edge, high quality, visionary in many way, requiring great skill just to even see as lines.

In US, many great climbs are so obvious, striking cracks. Routefinding skills are not much needed.

Perhaps some of the great Kor lines, like Yellow Spur, Naked Edge, Finger of Fate?

Salathe Wall would be a masterpiece, with its complex yet perfect route finding. A perfect realization of a vision of what was possible, by the most skilled climber of that generation.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 19, 2014 - 08:27pm PT
I get it.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2014 - 03:25am PT
I concur with Mr Crunch's appreciation.

Peak Rock is very good - I wonder if Steve Grossman has sourced a copy?

Steve
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