Climber Built Anchors on a Wall

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 66 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 7, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
This spot, the top of the first pitch of Native Son (photo by Tom Evans) is a totally climber built anchor, a rarity on walls these days.

It was all cams in absolutely bombproof rock! I had probably nine cams tied up in three sets of three. Cheyne jugged off the bottom three, I hauled off the middle three and the top three backed up the whole affair. None of the cams were too small, mostly medium and a few big ones. It was a bit of an awkward belay, being all hanging close to the corner but it was sure fun to have built it and used it (not to mention it's airy position).

Credit: Tom Evans
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
Here a mostly climber built anchor on Lost In America. There were three good 3/8" bolts to the right but they were a bit close together. We were bivying here and I like to have the bags hanging just past the end of the ledge. I placed these cams and moved them up and down till they equalized the load onto each other.

Credit: Mark Hudon
MisterE

Social climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Very classy, Mr. Hudon, very classy.

Edit: How do you like the Dragons?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 05:53pm PT
The Totem cams? Dang! When you really needed something to stick, they were the go-to cam!
Bowser

Social climber
Durango CO
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Not too fond of the biner to biner.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
bomber
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
Biner to biner? What is going to happen?
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
Not too fond of the biner to biner.

Do tell. I've been wanting to hear the argument against it. Most people when pressed will say, "It's just... you know... bad"
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
In this case, the argument could be that there is a 3 point load on one of the carabiners. That being said, I would have NO ISSUE with that anchor.
froodish

Social climber
Portland, Oregon
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
I wouldn't have any problem trusting that anchor either, but aside from a possible three way load mentioned up thread, if shifting/twisting is a factor, they can pretty easily unclip. That said, I clipped many a bolt with a biner-on-biner arrangement before QDs became popular an never had them unclip.
Googlymoogly

climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:31pm PT
In this case, the argument could be that there is a 3 point load on one of the carabiners.
Since the direction of pull is really only 2 directions I wouldn't say it counts as tri-loaded. So as you said, not a big deal.

I always thought part of the idea was that metal to metal could get cross-loaded easier however this does seem to be one of those rules every climber has heard and that classes tend to teach but it never is really supported with a reason.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
That quickdraw chain linking all three pieces could be cleaned up with a sling equalizing them instead.

Just sayin'.
MisterE

Social climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
This guy is killing the walls in great style, and you want to pick apart his anchor?

Get real, people.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
That quickdraw chain linking all three pieces could be cleaned up with a sling.

Yes, but would it be increase your safety by a significant factor or would your improvement basically be a non issue?

Is there anyone who would refuse to sleep hanging from this anchor deeming it "unsafe"?
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
Not with the three 3/8" bolts nearby!
Ljohnson

Social climber
The land of ice, snow and rocks
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
A wall anchor built from 3 cams and 2 QD's, for hauling only, backed up to two bolts by the rope clove hitched to biners.
Simple
Efficient
Bomber
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
Hell, if I had three or four more cams as good as those further up the crack and no bolts, I'd be happy as a clam and sleep like a baby!
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
I would sleep on that all night long!
WBraun

climber
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
Way homo!

Ya should have yarded out the 3 bolts and belayed on the cams only .....

:-)
hairyapeman

Trad climber
Fres-yes
Nov 7, 2012 - 06:52pm PT
I've hung from less! I'd trust it....but secretly clip into one of those bolts with my daisy while I sleep!
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