Adam Ondra, The Change 9b+ (5.15c) sent!

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michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Grats on the first grade!

From 8a.nu

"After some 20 days of work including two days of bolting, Adam Ondra did today establish The Change, 9b+ in Hansehelleren in Flatanger, which is the name of a fisherman district midways up in Norway. The ascent was filmed by Petr Pavlíèek for his new film which is going to be amazing because the floor of the cave follows the 45 - 60 grade over hanging route almost all the way.

The Change is some 55 meters long and it starts with a 25 meters first pitch 9a+ (b) with a bad rest followed by a 9a extension. At the first anchor, he did a safety knot and pulled the rope in order to make it possible for the belayer to to move upwards reducing the rope drag.

Adam did his first 9b more than two years ago and in total he has done five including giving a personal grade for the first suggested 9b+ in the world, which he did after 2-3 days. The 19 year old is known for giving very hard personal grades and it was not until yesterday, Petr reported on facebook, "After long denial, after long doubts, Adam finally and unwillingly admits it is 9b+."

Regarding the name, Adam has said that Norway will be his main target for the comming summers and he has also named a boulder, Into the Wild, "2 days of riding the boat and hiking to get there, great experience, what a beauty around!"
nopantsben

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
wait until that kid shows up in the valley...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 4, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
5.15 is a myth....Right?
nopantsben

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
everything outside of cali is a myth, actually... ;-)
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 4, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
BITCHIN.

Looks like killer spot.

VIVA NORWAY BABY!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 4, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
http://vimeo.com/45805681
Earlier video.
A different breed.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
I can't wait for the send video. I wonder if he screams louder falling, or sending the hardest route in the world?
Baggins

Boulder climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
Such a beautiful, big wall of sweeping granite.. not surprising that climbers that push the level of the sport do so on such amazing pieces of rock... the cliffs compel them to do it!
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!

TFPU, Marlow
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
all that yellin' and screaming bugs me.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Dano would have flashed that calling it 14B..;-)Nary a scream would have been heard.
hb81

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!

If I'm reading the description right thats not even the crux move as the video only shows the first pitch...
raymond phule

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
I believe that the first pitch is 9a+ (or 9b) and the second is 9a and that linking the pitches is 9b+.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Oct 4, 2012 - 04:09pm PT
So now the most difficult route in the world is on granite? Awesome! Having taken a backseat to limestone for many years, it's good to see granite's place on the world's elite climbing scene.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
Bump for La Dura Dura, his second 5.15c first ascent, 2nd of it's grade in the world!

Sharma also established a 5.15b yesterday.
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
Is that any good?
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
It's a bit harder then Snake Dike
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
when are they coming to the Valley?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:39pm PT
That young whipper snapper can't do no 5.9 OW in Yosemite I bet! (just kidding)

Incredible! Actually would be awesome to see him free a new route on El Cap.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
Saying Ondra couldn't climb in the Valley is like saying Robert Pattinson couldn't fuk a banged out old crack whore.

Not implying that Ondra is gay, just sayin.
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