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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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Grats on the first grade!
From 8a.nu
"After some 20 days of work including two days of bolting, Adam Ondra did today establish The Change, 9b+ in Hansehelleren in Flatanger, which is the name of a fisherman district midways up in Norway. The ascent was filmed by Petr Pavlíček for his new film which is going to be amazing because the floor of the cave follows the 45 - 60 grade over hanging route almost all the way.
The Change is some 55 meters long and it starts with a 25 meters first pitch 9a+ (b) with a bad rest followed by a 9a extension. At the first anchor, he did a safety knot and pulled the rope in order to make it possible for the belayer to to move upwards reducing the rope drag.
Adam did his first 9b more than two years ago and in total he has done five including giving a personal grade for the first suggested 9b+ in the world, which he did after 2-3 days. The 19 year old is known for giving very hard personal grades and it was not until yesterday, Petr reported on facebook, "After long denial, after long doubts, Adam finally and unwillingly admits it is 9b+."
Regarding the name, Adam has said that Norway will be his main target for the comming summers and he has also named a boulder, Into the Wild, "2 days of riding the boat and hiking to get there, great experience, what a beauty around!"
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nopantsben
climber
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wait until that kid shows up in the valley...
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nopantsben
climber
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everything outside of cali is a myth, actually... ;-)
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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I can't wait for the send video. I wonder if he screams louder falling, or sending the hardest route in the world?
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Such a beautiful, big wall of sweeping granite.. not surprising that climbers that push the level of the sport do so on such amazing pieces of rock... the cliffs compel them to do it!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!
TFPU, Marlow
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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all that yellin' and screaming bugs me.
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hb81
climber
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Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!
If I'm reading the description right thats not even the crux move as the video only shows the first pitch...
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raymond phule
climber
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I believe that the first pitch is 9a+ (or 9b) and the second is 9a and that linking the pitches is 9b+.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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So now the most difficult route in the world is on granite? Awesome! Having taken a backseat to limestone for many years, it's good to see granite's place on the world's elite climbing scene.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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Bump for La Dura Dura, his second 5.15c first ascent, 2nd of it's grade in the world!
Sharma also established a 5.15b yesterday.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Is that any good?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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It's a bit harder then Snake Dike
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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when are they coming to the Valley?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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That young whipper snapper can't do no 5.9 OW in Yosemite I bet! (just kidding)
Incredible! Actually would be awesome to see him free a new route on El Cap.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Saying Ondra couldn't climb in the Valley is like saying Robert Pattinson couldn't fuk a banged out old crack whore.
Not implying that Ondra is gay, just sayin.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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I love how all you f*#ks denounce the achievement of someone pushing far beyond you can imagine.
"It's Not in the Valley, what a puss, he can't climb"
You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad, but give no credit to someone who can pull on v15 moves stacked on one another, with easier terrain being v10.
You guys get pissed and moan when Honnold solo's your lifetime projects.
Guess Supertopo is for 5.8 only climbers who rather socialize and complain about politics and friends getting banned from a forum for being f*#king morons, then any kind of climbing.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad, but give no credit to someone who can pull on v15 moves stacked on one another, with easier terrain being v10.
Actually we beat off to 5.6 first ascents too, especially if it is an OW. :)
This forum has some serious haters.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
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Yeh it does. You're not a hater vitals
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