Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2012 - 08:36pm PT
The American Alpine Club International Climbers Meet invites you to
A presentation by Hans Florine
"Yosemite Climbing From 1955 to 2012, It's gone by fast"
Hans Florine, current speed record holder of the Nose, is giving a show on the History of climbing in Yosemite, emphasis on technique, tools, and style leading up to ever decreasing amount of time needed to ascend routes like The Nose.
When: October 12th, Friday,
Where: Yosemite Valley, East auditorium, Behind the Visitor Center and Ansel Adams Gallery!
6:30pm Meet and greet
7pm Show - The presentation goes over climbing from the 1950s to the present. Hans will focus on the speed with which it took to climb the huge walls of Yosemite.
I wrote somewhere once that to speed climb was like
making love and trying to see how fast you can do it.
Yet I appreciate Hans and these focused athletes who make speed their goal.
I also believe it's every bit as valid to climb at slower rates,
the rate you simply have a mood for or what ability and judgment
dictate. We never really surpass the achievements of our
Similarly it's a mistake to suggest that because someone
does something especially well, such as solo, this is something to
which others should aspire. Like music, there are so many different
ways to express climbing. And one approach doesn't necessarily
take away from or negate another.
(It's 2:30 a.m. here, and I'm half asleep, so this may sound a
little silly in the morning when I wake up...)
Since speed climbing techniques assisted Tommy and Alex in their unbelievable accomplishment of free climbing the Yosemite trifecta in a day (El Cap, Half Dome, and Mt. Watkins), if I get faster at love making maybe I'll have a shot at making love to three women in a day. Let's see 5 minutes, 11:50 to recover, 5 minutes, 11:55 to recover, 5 minutes! I think it's possible!
Great post from Pat, too. The walls I've done, some of the best times are the times between the action: belaying, eating breakfast or dinner, watching the swifts flitting around and the long shadows of the trees gradually sliding across the meadows.
But I can see also how, as equipment, techniques, and expectations change, today's fast climbers can haul less stuff and have less impact. The rock gets treated more lightly by haulbags, urine, trash, etc.