Point Mugu Rock.

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 68 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 11, 2012 - 01:17am PT
located North L.A right off Highway 1.
Credit: pyro
This thing is so fun.

The traverse is a great pump.
Cole

Trad climber
los angeles
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:30am PT
Yo Pyro! I love that little rock too. Some really fun highball cracks. I usually try to run a few laps when I take the 1 on my way up to Ojai to visit my mom.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:40am PT
With such a flat/ innoxuous landing a harness looks a little out of place, but sweet yeah.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:40am PT
That thing looks like kick ass fun!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2012 - 01:47am PT

lots of people come to watch whale's, surf and the climber!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:53am PT
It f*#king west of LA, almost in Ventura County, for gosh sakes! Good for you it's HIGHWAY ONE!!!

Ha-ha?

It's benign neighbor is a choss heap that gets in more TV commercials than El Capitan, Half Dome, and Mount Shasta combined.

It's a lovely five minutes for the ladies type of summit.

Bob Dylan's ranch is not more than a ten minute drive up the hill from just EAST of the Mugus.

Woo hoo?
Kenygl

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Sep 11, 2012 - 10:29am PT
Credit: Kenygl
My best friend pulled off a hold when topping out at Point Magu back in 87'. He crushed both of his heels and still hobbles around today. I met him for the first time at Stoney point a few weeks after his fall. I was bouldering at Stoney and this dude on canes was shaking his head at me saying I should really be roped up. I thought "who the f@(k is this guy". We've been best friends ever since. I think he was on the 5.11 something face on the right. I think about that particular fall every time I see that piece of rock.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2012 - 10:35am PT
Ha, ha, ha....brings back some memories, climbed there with Chouinard a "few" years ago.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 11, 2012 - 10:35am PT
best l'il crack workhorsehouse in the west. but that's point mugu pebble, lad. the main rock has climbing too, technically a no-no, but climbed nevertheless and, as i understand, not all that bad.
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Sep 11, 2012 - 11:19am PT
Ha, ha, ha....brings back some memories, climbed there with Chouinard a "few" years ago.



Interesting topo....

According to the modern day ratings, I am jumping leaps and bounds. I guess the select few of us back in the late 70's early 80's were .12b climbers. That includes old YC, TM (with his ole VW Beetle) and the late Don Whillans etal. Wednesday afternoons were the get together's actually.

We never really TR'd that stuff though. Just went and did em bouldering style with no pads either. I have to admit that the PBR's and whacky tobacco may have had a thing or two in motivating us.

Yup Tony... the big rock has several lines. BITD there were NO access restrictions. Just tons of attacking nesting gulls and the NAS WEPS DEPT shooting range just north of the rock, would send chills up our asses when frolicking on em.

A hand full of us were stationed at NAS Pt. Mugu from '78-84. Between Mugu Rock and the surfing at the Point just behind the Jet Shop, we had some very memorable beer bashes and crazy ass times. I remember one afternoon, CHP came by and told us to cease climbing as it was creating a traffic hazard. We simply moved over to the Big Rock.

Good stuff.

Will post some photos later. Most have the original graffiti and no paint over crap that ultimately fkd up the original quality of the rock. Probably why they are rated as they are today.

.12b????? Now that is funny. I aint no .12b cranker.... until today.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 11, 2012 - 11:27am PT
medusa reported that a CHP dude stopped at the tunnel crags recently and told him, "i don't even think that's legal". he replied that he has talked to many rangers there who have never had any problem with it, and it's been climbed regularly for a good 15 years. dude went away.

amazes me the people we get enforcing the law who don't even know the law. i got a ticket for driving past a "road closed" sign on mt. pinos last winter, a full two inches of melting snow on pavement. i was cited for violating a statute which restricts traffic for road construction. the judge asked a simple question and dismissed it outright. "ignorance to the law is no excuse." i want the interest on the $193 of bail they sat on for four weeks.

"i don't even think that's legal." these guys need to get a little better education than cadet school.
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Sep 11, 2012 - 11:29am PT
Looks like fun, but I am bummed that they don't allow you to go left
Kenygl

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Sep 11, 2012 - 11:36am PT
I'm sure the memory fades as you get older chief. The guy who drew the topo is one of the most prolific climbers I've ever known. To anyone who was active in the so cal scene on the 70's and 80's he was a standout. Not so much for climbing accomplishments, although he climber thousands of routes at a very enviable grade, but for sheer knowledge of the sport and technical skill. His father preceeded him as a river guide, climber, actor, educator and in general brilliant guy. Maybe you WERE a 5.12 climber on a good day, we all have good days, which some of us actually remember. Anywho just thought I'd throw the subjective topo into the mix since the subject of Mugu came up.
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Sep 11, 2012 - 11:38am PT
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Like I said, most likely the dozen or so PBR's and Whacky Tabacky were the prime movers...
Kenygl

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Sep 11, 2012 - 11:47am PT
Absolutely ;)
nutjob

Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
I was speaking at some work conference in LA about a decade ago, and took a diversion after my session to drive up there and spend an afternoon. It was disappointing as a destination for multiple hours of driving, but it's a great spot for what it is. Lot's of graffiti when I was there.

The cracks are definitely cool, and highball enough to get your blood pumping but not cause self-recriminations.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Sep 11, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
Wow it would be a real bummer to get hobbled by Magu rock .

He should change his story to , "fell off the crux of Sea of Dreams in a hailstorm " or something .
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Sep 11, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
amazes me the people we get enforcing the law who don't even know the law.


Not amazing at all when you consider the amount of new laws and regulations passed each year. Adding to that many of the new laws have some amount of overlap/conflict with prior laws. This is partly due to a regulation happy government that wants to pass a new law for every new situation rather than develop a wider set of principals by which to govern. Another contributing factor (region dependent) is the propositions that get passed by voters. Propositions are not fully vetted before being placed on the ballot. These propositions often conflict with prior laws and need to be taken to court. Soon there will be so many laws no one will be able to keep track of them all and it will become increasingly easy to get falsely busted by confused police or to get busted for a legit but obscure law (same applies to lawsuits).





This is just the pages in the tax code!!! Imagine how much more there is for other federal laws, state laws, county laws and local laws! How can anyone keep up and possibly know if what they are doing is right or wrong?


RANT/OT THREAD DRIFT OVER


back to climbing...
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
Credit: pyro
random people watch and say hello!
Credit: pyro
the guy in the picture said hello!
he then walked onto my rope!!!
Matty good to hear from ya!

P.S Donini ur a fossil! :)
chief lets see some old mugu rock stuff.
The Chief

climber
Climber from the Land Mongols under the Whites
Sep 11, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
Yup... circa Aug 1979

The Real Mugu Rock with no over spray.

Jimmy Bleau on what the topo states as an .11. Notice the Mustang, Datsun and the VW


The Datsun was mine. The Mustang was Jimmys

We named each line via the graffiti names. Pretty simple.
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