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Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 31, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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I am going to be hiking the Teton Crest Trail in a couple of weeks and wondering if I can approach (and climb) either the Grand or Middle Teton from the west. Has anybody done this?
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Aug 31, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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It's been done Aaron. Long and somewhat tedious approach up Dartsmouth Basin to a talus filled couloir that ends near the Black Dike just above Lower Saddle. Best to leave trail a little north of junction of North and South Fork Cascade Canyon trails to "bushwack" up to Dartsmouth Basin.
Best Wishes on climb.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Aug 31, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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I've never done anything from the Teton Crest Trail, but there are surely routes on the west side of the Grand--West Face, Black Ice, Northwest Ridge, Enclosure routes, etc., usually approached via Valhalla Canyon(which itself is usually reached from Cascade Canyon) or, in the case of the full NW Ridge directly from near the forks of Cascade Canyon. So, presuming that you can access upper Cascade Canyon from the Crest Trail, then you can get to the Grand. If you want to do one of the easier routes more around on the southern side of the mountain (such as the Exum or Owen-Spaulding), then you can reverse the Valhalla Traverse, which basically follows a ledge system around the Enclosure,from Valhalla Canyon to the Lower Saddle and get on those routes from there.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Elk Creek, Idaho
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Aug 31, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Middle Teton may be acessed from west by walking up broad obvious west
ridge of South Teton then traversing north
through easy couloirs to Middle Teton/South Teton Saddle then climb SW couloir to summit.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 31, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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Before or after your hike - drive to the Lupine Meadows trailhead and climb the Grand.
Do you plan to free solo the thing? If not, the extra gear on your back sounds like a bad idea - in addition to the crappy approach. There are many walk-ups along the Teton Crest trail, depending on your route. I would look into those. They will be less crowded, for starters.
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Aaron Johnson
climber
Bear Valley, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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Thanks everybody for the beta & suggestions. Doesn't sound particularly straight forward from the westside. I will be backpacking with somebody who is more of a backpacker than climber so I would need to bring a rope & light rack for bigger & technical routes.
That said I am still interested in finding a couple high quality peak to climb on the Teton Crest Trail. Route should be 5.6 or easier. I don't mind carrying a short skinny rope and using natural anchors between soloing and scrambling.
We will be spending 4-5 days on the trails travelilng south to north from Marion Lake and Cascade Canyon (may include Paintbrush Canyon if we are moving well).
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 31, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Static Peak is the easist. I think Buck has a 4th class scramble, you'll want to get beta for that from Jenny Lake, maybe a few photos. Table Mountain might also work. These are the major peaks. Once you drop below Hurricane Pass, you're much further from the summits. Pretty much Static Peak...
EDIT: Looks like Google points to a lot of info on each of these 3 peaks.
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