Five Days & Nights on the Lost Arrow Anton Nelson SCB 1948

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 27 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 29, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
This classic adventure was the first real wall climb in Yosemite involving repeated bivouacs and truly grueling climbing. Anton Nelson and John Salathé combined to establish the most demanding technical rock climb in North America. Nelson the pastor and Salathé the clever craftsman set the standard for elemental climbing style drawing deeply upon inner character and strength to accomplish this amazing climb.

This account first appeared in the 1948 Sierra Club Bulletin and was reprinted as shown here in Galen Rowell's Vertical World of Yosemite, 1974.

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matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Aug 29, 2012 - 07:45pm PT
Thanks Steve. Always like your contributions. Was nice to reread this and get psyched to climb the spire this fall.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 29, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
Those guys really knew how to stretch out a good experience.......probably didn't wolf down there food either.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2012 - 01:19pm PT
Evan at the Ansel Adams Gallery relayed a story about Anton and John having dinner at Ansel Adams' house after they all got down. Ansel had hauled his camera gear all the way up the Falls Trail.

John ate his usual pile of nuts and fruit while Anton dispatched several steaks!
steve shea

climber
Aug 31, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
thanks Steve
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
It's just us...

The depth of their effort is pretty staggering if you try to imagine what they went through on less than two quarts per man per day for five sweltering days. The original HARD MEN!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
High Adventure Bump...

Come and hear about the history of the early ascents of this route at the Oakdale Climbers Festival October 26-28, 2012.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1902674&msg=1927875#msg1927875
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 26, 2012 - 06:41pm PT
Article by Bob Swift, 1955 SC Bulletin.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 26, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
Them boys knew how to suffer in style and with dignity.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 29, 2012 - 06:55am PT
While at Oakdale, I met Bob Swift, and a more gracious gent one seldom meets.
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Oct 29, 2012 - 10:18am PT
Climbed this excellent route, the" 5.9 " OW on pitch 2 was burly. Second error bivy is awesome.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 29, 2012 - 10:36am PT
Ah...the leisurely place of gentleman climbers. Why is everyone in such a rush these days?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 31, 2012 - 12:50am PT
The Lost Arrow horizontal piton is based on the design of John Salathe. Common knowledge among older climbers who have used them. But the naming belongs to Yvon, according to Tom Frost. He named it firstly to honor his mentor, the inventive Swiss. Its shape evoked the Lost Arrow istself, especially so when the imaginary eye of the upright piton is attached to the wall of Yosemite Falls and Point.

Draw your own mental picture.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 31, 2012 - 01:38am PT
THIS IS DEFINITELY A CLICK TO ENLARGE SHOT!
Does that spire resemble a Lost Arrow wedge or a LA short thick or is it just another cock-shaped rock? All three, IMO.

The oddest thing just happened, too; but then the odd is the regular in Middle Earth, so....

I went over to the TR posted by the dynamic young Vitaliy M. and it turns out that he and his partner Amy did the LA Direct and he laid some fine photos out. This is what exactamente I needed and couldn't find to finish my last post above.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Lost-Arrow-Spire-Direct-Cragger-and-Taper-get-WORKED/t11743n.html

Vitaliy, I tellya, it's Batso! It is!

He and the Dolt been havin' some Middle Earth-type fun the last few days...
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
Nov 4, 2012 - 07:04pm PT
Very cool!
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Nov 4, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
Once upon a time (maybe '60 or '61) when I was a rookie ranger working on the front desk, Ax Nelson came in. He introduced himself and I congratulated him on the Arrow Chimney. He asked if anyone had ever repeated the route, and I said they had. Upon which he said, "Well, I'm darn sure no one will ever do it in less than four days!"

I didn't tell him.
Swifter

Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 21, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
Photo by Mary Ann "Corky" Matthews
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
Nice shot Bob!

Here's one of yours from the Stanford Alpine Club history. Very cool photo.

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Is this anywhere near the scene of the rescue story involving John Salathé that you told at the Oakdale Festival?
stonefly

Social climber
Alameda, California
Nov 22, 2012 - 11:54am PT
Swifter

Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 22, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
Messages 1 - 20 of total 27 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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