Patrick Henner
Trad climber
Arlington VA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2012 - 07:37am PT
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I have made the approach twice from Young Lakes and been turned back twice; once because of weather and the other time because we spent too much time looking for the beginning of the climb. Tow questions:
1) What is the most straightforward approach from Young Lakes?
2) A pic or more specific beta on where the first pitch begins? I know there are variations but want to be in the ballpark.
Thanks!
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10b4me
Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
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From the lowest Young lake, go north kind of following the drainage to Roosevelt lake
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Patrick Henner
Trad climber
Arlington VA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2012 - 09:59am PT
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Yes; That is what I have basically done in the past. Any beta of where to start the first pitch?
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pglee
Boulder climber
Oakland, CA
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Rope up at the top of the highest talus past the face. There will be a corner on your left. I made the mistake of scrambling up to a false ledge. There is no ledge, so you need to rope up at the talus heap. Protection is sparse. You can also start up on the slabs on the other side of the corner, but I think you're doing another climb if you do that.
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monolith
climber
albany,ca
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Someone's got to have some pics. I remember my first time hiking in from Youngs is that the west ridge is facing you, so it really doesn't look like a ridge. The North ridge skyline is easily seen. Once you walk into the bowl of Conness, then the west ridge becomes more prominent when looking to the left. The ST topo start (pglee describes above I think) doesn't start on the ridge, but in the depression to the south/right of the ridge and joins the ridge a pitch or two up. I've always started on the ridge itself, which means you scramble/climb something like 30 ft to gain the ridge.
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nature
climber
SoSlo, CO
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Dingus for the Three pointer - nothing but net. well done, sir. well done....
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
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got the flip side- N peak to Conness ridge by chance? (hehe)
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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The best approach from Young Lakes is to hike back to the car. Start Over. Drive to Sawmill Campground/Saddlebag Lake and approach from that side.
More vertical gain, but 1/2 the distance, and most of the gain is in one big push when you climb to the Plateau.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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I know a lot of people who have been shut down coming from Young Lakes, but not nearly as many from Saddlebag.
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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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There was a party in the corner when we climbed it, so we started out on the face to the left of the corner. This variation was excellent and I think is the preferred line (though maybe slightly harder, like 5.7 instead of 5.6).
It's a pretty indistinct route. Just pick a way and start climbing. It's all sub-5.9
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khanom
Trad climber
The Dessert
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There's no point in obsessing over the "exact" start. I mean, there is a reason that older guides (and Croft) say things like "start on the obvious ridge". It's all good...
I've done this route a gazillion times and make a point of starting it differently every time -- all variations I've tried are just dandy in their own way.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I followed a trail to the top lake, then once I got on it kind of went a bee line with losing as little elevation as possible. I think a really fun way to do that peak would be to backpack to Roosevelt lake and camp beneath its hulking massif :)))
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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HOLY F*#K! Dingus, there's NO SNOW up there! WTF? A friend and I climbed the Harding Route on the SW Face last August, and you couldn't believe how much snow was up there at that time.
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John M
climber
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Last year we had 200 percent of normal snowfall with some places even higher. This year we had 50 percent of normal.
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Cragman
Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
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The best approach to the West Ridge is as follows....
Climb the North Ridge of North Peak, then descend it's south flank and gain the North Ridge of Conness. Follow that line to the summit of Conness, then descend the "secret gully". Gain the West Ridge anywhere at it's base, and bomb it to the summit.
My favorite trifecta.
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Quote The best approach to the West Ridge is as follows....
Climb the North Ridge of North Peak, then descend it's south flank and gain the North Ridge of Conness. Follow that line to the summit of Conness, then descend the "secret gully". Gain the West Ridge anywhere at it's base, and bomb it to the summit.
My favorite trifectaHere
oh hell ya!!!
I'm on that...fo sure!!
that is exactly the kind of advice i was looking for...
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Cragman
Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
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Yeah Riley, go get after that triple! That is a super fun day!
I parked at the Saddlebag Lake parking lot, and was 12 1/2 hours car to car.
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