Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 10, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
|
Great Pumpkin, Fairview Dome
Tuolumne Meadows
Ed Hartouni
Gary Carpenter
Trip Report - June 9, 2012
Bob Kamps and Bud Couch did the FA of this route on the west face of Fairview Dome in July of 1969. Gary and I had last done it about 10 years ago with our buddy Cowboy Steve... the choice on Saturday followed a list of elimination... American Wet Dream, Vicious Thing, Roseanne. Well we got up on the first little ledge of Roseanne and traversed over into Great Pumpkin.
we had delayed our start waiting for some of the Sunrise tribe to show up on a weekend that might have included getting together and climbing, but that didn't materialize.
Of Great Pumpkin I had only general memories of knob pulling, a great ledge, and the single bolt protected final pitch... at 5.8 it seemed like a good re-hab climb to swap leads with Gary on. He had the rack on so he took off on the first lead, actually with the 80m rope he did two pitches.
The cold morning had us moving stiffly getting into the flow of the climb, I went up through the hollow flakes and up to the ledge, the next two pitches. It was mostly fun, and I always have a great time on that side of Fairview, not many people up on the dome, so we had that remote climb stoke going, all alone on a granite dome.
Gary below getting ready to climb.
Gary getting ready for the next two pitches, the crux is right off the ledge and up the knob encrusted face above
These finishing pitches are short, and Gary could have ended up on the top making it a 3 pitch climb, but he brought me up and I got to go to the top on a very short 4th pitch (for us).
Here's Gary making the moves over and under the only protection to the top.
It turns out that that was all we did, but so mellow and complete that it was enough.
|
|
WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
|
Cool! Always wanted to get on that climb.
|
|
ec
climber
ca
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
|
Hey!
What ever happened to Cowboy Steve?
 ec
|
|
Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 12:45pm PT
|
Nice, Ed.
That one is on my list for this summer.
Rick
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 12:49pm PT
|
Thanks for the TR Ed!
I'm like you were before June 9. Did it a long time ago and remember it being really fun but that's about all I remember. Its on the list for this summer.
EDIT: Rick and I not only posted at the same moment, we posted the same thing
|
|
MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
|
Made me heartsick. Loved the pictures. TFPU, Ed!
|
|
east side underground
climber
Hilton crk,ca
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
|
thanks Ed, love the great pumkin,done it many times. hope the retro bolt crew never get their mitts on it. Hey Murry lol!
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
|
Another fine understated TR. That's a route I always meant to get 'round to, but didn't.
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
|
Yay!
Eric
|
|
Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
|
Did GP 30 years ago TFPU.
|
|
Daphne
Trad climber
In transit...
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
|
Yay! This climb is one of my favorite TM memories. When Jay and I did it last year the bergshrund was all the way up the wall. Looks like you guys didn't have to negotiate it that much.
|
|
Gary Carpenter
climber
SF Bay Area
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
|
Love that shot from the Ledge. When I looked up, all I could see was your legs hanging off the ledge.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 07:53pm PT
|
Yup, tons 'o' fun! I'll never forget Daphne the mtneer on the initial 'schrund. I got the heady step move, and she ran the last part together in a bold sweep of slab mastery!
Perfect weather, Laughs the whole way!
That's what great days at the crags with great friends are all about!
|
|
Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
|
awesome, its on the list now!
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2012 - 12:47am PT
|
good bumpin into you guys up there!
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2012 - 01:00am PT
|
sometimes that's all you need
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2012 - 09:12am PT
|
...not many people up on the dome, so we had that remote climb stoke going, all alone on a granite dome.
This, along with the pictures, brought back some great memories that are worth re-doing. Up on the dome, smell of the pines, a bird here or there, a breeze going through my [singular] hair...
Touching God, I say.
|
|
nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2012 - 11:45am PT
|
Nice! I looked over at it from Lucky Streaks a few years ago, seems a little skeeeeery with the run-out cheese-grater potential!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!