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| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 25, 2006 - 06:18pm PT
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Hi all, I am planning a trip to Dome Rock this weekend. Any wisemen out there have an idea if snow will be a factor at this point? Also i'm trying to find a guidebook to the area . Any recomendations on must-do routes? Any nice camping ? Any fun stories about the place? I've never checked it out , i hope it is not to wet to climb on right now..... thanks
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 25, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
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Which dome rock? State, longitude?
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 06:31pm PT
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good call , i'm refering to Dome rock off Hwy 190 on the west side of the southern Sierra , near the Needles....in CA
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Apr 25, 2006 - 06:41pm PT
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Caltrans is reporting that 190 is open. Snow levels are around 9000 feet and Dome is south facing at 7000 so the climbing should be great. Tell me what level you climb at and I will try to recommend some routes.
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 07:30pm PT
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thanks for the info ... we could get on routes up to 10c .
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susan peplow
climber
Winner of Diet Challenge!!!
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Apr 25, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
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What would EVER possess you to go climb there? SLAB, RUNOUT, Vegitation in cracks, Crap by comparison to other local attractions.
No approach, I'll give you that, but good grief! A place to never return.
Enjoy!?!
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Apr 25, 2006 - 07:53pm PT
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To answer your other questions first. You can camp on top of the dome, walk down the left side as you are facing down. The guidebook is the Needles guide which is out of print and costs a lot if you can find a used one. Your best bet is to find someone with one and make a copy. Bring your bug juice for morning and evenings.
Seeing as I can't remember anything anymore, I will go thru the guide and write a few route names down and post tomorrow.
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Apr 25, 2006 - 07:59pm PT
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Wow, Susan doesn't like to be challenged I guess. But she is right about most of that stuff. The real highlights of Dome Rock are the 5.11 and 5.12s, many of which were put up by Herb Leager or Ron Carson. There are some amazingly hard and sustained climbs in that difficulty range there and if you are into the pain of thin edge climbing there is almost no where any better.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Apr 25, 2006 - 08:08pm PT
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Like .10c? Do "Saucer Full of Secrets." It is brilliant, and a little on the bold side but not crazy. Also "Lightnings Hand."
Windjammer is classic too. Easier but interesting with a rope toss over a horn to protect the start/crux and then nothing but tied knobs for the whole first pitch.
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funkness
climber
Ca.
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Apr 25, 2006 - 08:26pm PT
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Lol..."A place to never return"
I agree with Shortimer, there are some worldclass slab routes there, "Saucer Full of Secrets" is one of them, it's 10c. Here's Kris Solem on "Pipe Dreams", 11d.
Spring and Fall are the best seasons to climb there, or late afternoon in the summer. The Tree Route is spltter 5.6 finger crack, 3 pitches. Great solo. You can car to car it in a few minutes...
Oh, and the knob climbs are what makes Dome Rock soooo special. "Between Nothingness and Eternity",11a. If that one was the first route you tried to lead there, you might go away saying.... "A place to never return" :)
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G_Gnome
Social climber
Tendonitis City
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Apr 25, 2006 - 09:00pm PT
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Other routes at the top of the list would be Anti-Jello Crack just left of The Tree Route (pictured above) as you first walk down. The big dihedral that Rob is leading above is Tobin's Dihedral and is a great 10d but remember to use the knobs on the left face. Way over on the left side of the dome is Red Mushrooms at 10b/c (the left most bolted route on the dome). A few routes right of that is Just Lovely at about 10b/c also that goes up the right slanting dike. It's pretty hard to give much more beta without a guide to look at.
Enjoy!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Apr 25, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
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Any place with Donna Reed doin' OW looks cool to me!
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PDHMAN
Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
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Apr 25, 2006 - 09:54pm PT
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"Vianosurous" @ 11a is one of the Best knob/slab routes on this planet! That is not only my opininion, but that of two local Old farts, Ron Carson and Patrick Paul. You gotta do it! Cheers.
(PS:You can thank the ASCA folks for all them new bolts/hangars all over the dome.)
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 25, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
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Gotta be one of the best roadside crags anywhere.
Seems like every time we left the Needles someone would pipe up with "We have time to do the Tree Route". Near the top of the list for the finest .6 in the state.
Never passed it up.
How many crags have a downhill approach and a downhill finish to the beer, as well as plenty of very good routes? It's reputation as a runout slab only applies to the upper pitches. All the first pitches are pretty darn steep.
Early in the year there may be some snow at the base, the climbing more comfortable than later on. It's a solar oven later in the season.
Oh! make sure you can tie a slip knot one handed with either hand before jumping on the knobier routes.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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A friend told me he spent 3+ weeks at the Needles, but never thought to go to Dome Rock. All I could do was shake my head. Sure, there ain't no Don Juan's at Dome. But then again there ain't no Nothiningness at the Needles.
PDHMAN, where is "Vianosurous" @ 11a is one of the Best knob/slab routes on this planet!" It isn't in the Needles guide.
Side note: Eppi's pic of Ron on Carson-Ogenic is one of my all-time favorite snaps. Yet another killer route...
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2006 - 02:57am PT
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Dome rock , The Needles are not accesible right now . we drove all the way up the 190 from springvalle in the dark of night only to be shut down by a road closed sign near ponderosa lodge . maybe we should have come in from the south ....hmmmm i didn't think of that at the time . still a lot of snow at 7000 feet , leave the rack , bring your sled.....
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dome rock is one of the best places to climb at. It's best to sleep till noon, and then go down and- as the climbs come into the shade, jump on them and climb till dark. Slab??!! Heck go try "Between nothingness and eternity" or "Asteroid crack" or "Save the Wales" or "Chemotherapy" or "Wind jamer" also the forest surrounding the base is really cool. Just beware of bozos who toss stuff off the top.
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PDHMAN
Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
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It is the first route just left of Tobin's D. It is obvioius and it is "STIFF"!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Susan - a casual poll of the jury has overruled you. You been hanging out with cavemen or somethin?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dome Rock bump. Looks like lots of potential for more HARD routes. Are there any topo's someone could post up of routes to the left of Tobin's?
Amazing rock, can't wait to get back in cooler temps.
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| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
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