Castle Rock Climing Video - Leavenworth, WA

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Sol Wertkin

climber
Leavenworth, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 2, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
I know there's a number of folks here who have spend some time climbing around Leavenworth, WA. Been a good spring season around these parts, pretty dry, not too hot. This is a short video produced by Icicle TV of myself and Grant Sutherland climbing a few classic Castle Rock Routes, enjoy:


http://icicle.tv/Blog/SPORTS-OUTOORS/Castle-Rock-Climbing-with-Sol-and-Grant.html
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
May 2, 2012 - 01:37pm PT
primo!

thanks
Slinky00

Trad climber
Carson City, NV
May 2, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
Very cool, thanks for posting. My dad told me he free soloed Midway when his partner flaked out sometime in the early 80's. Also he said he had run into Peter Croft there a few times back in the day.
Sol Wertkin

climber
Leavenworth, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
Oh Tami, you're funny!!!!!

Just because you've climbed at Castle Rock doesn't make you Old Skool... BUTTTT, if you climbed the first ascent of Midway in 1948, or bouldered Angel Crack in boots in the 50's, that sure does!!!

You nailed it though, every route at Castle is awesome and deserves to be highlighted.

FWIW, the hordes were on Damnation all day long, love that route!
Sol Wertkin

climber
Leavenworth, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
That's funny you asked about the South Face, just yesterday I was discussing the grade with Jim Nelson on fb.

Kramar's current guidebook list it as 5.8+, seems fair to me considering Castle grades, but i'm sure many a sketched out newbie would beg to differ. As I tell anyone venturing up that route for the first time, "sew it up and don't deck!"

Stories... YES, bring em on!!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 2, 2012 - 02:03pm PT
Tami, Yellowbird is on Midnight and its 5.9!
Sol Wertkin

climber
Leavenworth, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
Must be thinking about "Scary" Canary..
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 2, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
Nice vid!

That thing is still there? Have the trees Fred chopped down grown back yet?
They should be about ready for a second-growth harvest.

Tami, don't talk to me about dino-sores - my left knee sounded like a castanet
this morning.
Damnation in boots, baby, the only way to fly! Really, it is 5.7 in boots.

edit: isn't a canary a yellow bird?

Keith Leaman

Trad climber
Seattle
May 2, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
Sol,
Nice video! This might be the crux you mentioned on South Face 5.8+ on Castle Rock. Many classics there! Phil G 1999.
Hardly Visible

Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
May 2, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
This be the step across you be speakin of Tami?

Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 2, 2012 - 03:15pm PT
Tami, chimney on the other side of Jello Tower is Damnation Crack. Such a classic, first did it in 1976 with hexes and a hope and a prayer.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
May 2, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
Sollllllllllllllllllllll...................... NO "Castle Rock" video is complete without a grand shot of that trouser-filler. Gnarliest 5.7 in WA.

Or so I think. I bet Ghost hazzanuther opinion :-)

I don't know if I'd call it "gnarly." More like "elegant." But if you think you're hot stuff cuz you can lead 5.9 somewhere else, Scary Canary will be a pant-loader for sure.

Edit: There's pretty spacey move on The Bone, too, if I remember correctly.
MH2

climber
May 2, 2012 - 04:47pm PT
Did enjoy. Thanks.

I too wonder what one-time climbing partner Dan Lapesca is doing these days.
Sol Wertkin

climber
Leavenworth, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
All images pilfered shamelessly from the internets..

"The Move" on Canary


What in Damnation..


The only sport route at Castle, the classic Daz Muzak:

The step across move on Midway:


NOT Castle Rock, the obscure Chumstick Crag, any of you folks climb this one?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 3, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
We didn't pronounce the 'h'.

I would have thought the rain would have washed that thing away by now.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
May 4, 2012 - 12:29am PT
Thanks for sharing, Sol.
Obviously, for quite a few of us, you got the ole Tumwater juices flowing.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 4, 2012 - 12:45am PT
Super cool video looks like some serious old school climbing!
MisterE

Social climber
May 4, 2012 - 01:36am PT
Nice Sol - and congratulations on your new position.

Now, let's see some ROTC footage - those pod moves perplexed me...
Russ S.

climber
was Seattle, now Spokane
May 4, 2012 - 07:19am PT
Are people still allowed to climb at Peshastin Pinnacles, or is it private property now? And, are the Apple Orchards still there at Peshastin?

The pinnacles and part of the orchard were purchased many years ago by climbers and corporate support, then turned over to the State to manage as part of the park system. Tried to climb there early this sprimg, but was turn away by a ranger keeping people off for their own protection....and that of the trails.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 4, 2012 - 10:53am PT
Tried to climb there early this sprimg, but was turn away by a ranger keeping people off for their own protection....and that of the trails.

Huh? What, they're worried about the trails' dirt? And it is about time
the state finally started worrying about our protection. Just the other day
I was wondering when they would ban climbing. After all, suicide is illegal, isn't it?
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