Rescue on Ancient Art

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 46 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 25, 2012 - 11:48am PT
http://moabsunnews.com/news/article_f9992732-8e38-11e1-b94b-0019bb30f31a.html
eKat

Trad climber
BITD3
Apr 25, 2012 - 11:51am PT
YIKES!

:-(

TFPU!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 25, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
Hope she's gonna be ok.

Where's Jeremy when you need him?
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Apr 25, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
Thanks CitiCard. Said sarcastically


Hope she heals well and fast.


Susan
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Apr 25, 2012 - 01:15pm PT

I hope she's okay and heals up fast.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Apr 25, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
Best wishes to the injured climber for a speedy recovery!
SeanH

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 25, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Jeremy - It's a major cluster because a lot of people want to climb it because it's a great summit. What's your point?
schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Apr 25, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
ill say it if no one else wants to...

clusterf*#k = lots of people without the requisite experience for their chosen objectives out there these days

my last trip a few weeks ago included a run up castleton...what a f*#kin nightmare of noobs. people clueless on a roadside single pitch stuck up on a tower needing basic skills, beta, help getting up and rapping down...

whats so wrong with earning your wings so to speak?
Chickenhead Climbing Gear

Social climber
Philadelphia, PA
Apr 25, 2012 - 02:41pm PT
whats so wrong with earning your wings so to speak?

I'm undecided whether to answer "It takes too long" or "Isn't that what the gym belay test is for?", so will pitch both.
schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Apr 25, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
yeah jer i'm with ya man...but sometimes honesty hurts ya know?

but do you think the place to start is on the sharp end on desert towers?

sure there are some people who do that and do it well...

for most of todays crop i think some more basic training is in order
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
I've climbed AA over 40 times and have seen some crazy things out there, but that is the first major accident that I am aware of. Yes, it is surprising that it doesn't happen more. I didn't get her name. Hopefully someone that knows her will post an update on her condition. I hope she has a full recovery.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 25, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
clusterf*#k = lots of people without the requisite experience for their chosen objectives out there these days

Climbing is anarchy.

Under 2 years ago I did my first multi-pitch climb- Snake dike on Half Dome. In prime season (September) on a Saturday. We were at the base first, and went up. We were slow. Every lead was a big deal, but we were not care less. IMO everyone who decides to sack up, deserves to be there (noob or a pro). Climbers are not suicidal. Everyone has fear, and knows their limits. At times accidents happen.


PS: I was up Castleton last weekend. Kor Inglis. It was a big cluster f*#k for very good climbers too.

Prod

Trad climber
Apr 25, 2012 - 07:02pm PT
IMO everyone who decides to sack up, deserves to be there (noob or a pro).

agreed! Aid, free, noob, pro, whomever shows up first has the right to climb first. If you don't like the cluster climb something else.

Prod.
Dirka

Trad climber
SF
Apr 25, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
Big thanks to the rescue service. And a HEAL UP to the lady.
Daphne

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Apr 25, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
I could type the names of very good, very experienced climbers who have injured or killed themselves while climbing. It is interesting to me that some jump to the conclusion that injuries only happen to noobs when the details are unknown.

What if we simply had compassion for the injured and remind ourselves to have a heightened vigilance when we go out? But then we wouldn't get to feel better than someone else, thereby not receiving an ego boost through judging.

Healing vibes to the injured climber.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Apr 25, 2012 - 11:45pm PT

PS: I was up Castleton last weekend. Kor Inglis. It was a big cluster f*#k for very good climbers too.

Kor Ingils is such a sandbag. And just because it's listed in "50 Crowded Climbs" doesn't mean anything. Sure, the easy lower pitches will situate you up high. But the OW to come ain't no 5.9. I've heard the moans, seen the traxion pulleys. The North Chimney is a 4* 5.9 classic, with just a few OW moves.

nOObs have no business on these routes. If they want a taste, go over to the 1 pitch routes on Wall Street. As I've posted earlier, AA is a serious free rock climb - and it's the easiest climb in the Fishers, probably one of the most dangerous venues in the country ('cept for maybe Monument Basin, also Cutler Sandstone, only looser)

Kevin used to tell me that visiting climbers would drop in, and ask if there were any Sport Climbs in the Fishers. His answer was to show them my little photo album of Kingfisher Colorado NE Ridge.

To fall on a route like AA speaks to inexperience, with all due respect and best wishes to the injured (who could have been a 5.9+ leader for all I know). It must have taken me a good 15 years in Yosemite and elsewhere before I felt ready to face the overhanging crack and face, the loose rock, pro that would pull with a jerk test, drilled baby angle belay anchors you could remove with your fingers...and...difficult climbing...before I'd commit my precious time off,with a 2 day drive e/w from Bishop, to venture. And, Indian Creek was at the bottom of my list. Perfect crack climbs, these, now worn smooth from the crowds of even a weekday. Eve watch a guy fall UP Super Crack?

But, in addition to the Towers are the Lines, none of which I'll consider if there's so much as a single car in the parking turnoff.
labrat

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Apr 26, 2012 - 12:16am PT
Get well soonest. Good thoughts going your way.
James Wilcox

Boulder climber
The Coast
Apr 26, 2012 - 12:18am PT
Wishing her a fast recovery.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Apr 26, 2012 - 12:32am PT
IMO everyone who decides to sack up, deserves to be there (noob or a pro). Climbers are not suicidal. Everyone has fear, and knows their limits.

Ah, but I'd disagree.

Specifically on the assumption that everyone has fear and knows their limits.

Climbers may not (or may) be suicidal.

But absence of a death wish does not necessarily mean the decision was made with good judgment, with knowledge, etc.

Therefore, not everyone who's chosen to be there has actually sacked up.

Some are just stupid or ignorant.
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Apr 26, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
Kabala states: To fall on a route like AA speaks to inexperience

Kabala - big assumption there my friend. The spot where she fell is pretty hard and runout, certainly got my attention when I was there last month. I have been climbing for 20+ years, just climbed clean the north face of Castleton (a substantially harder route), and felt sketched where the injured climber fell. The reach to the bolt is also height dependent, making the clip further sketchy for someone who is shorter than average.

So if I fall last month - I am "inexperienced"? Or I don't belong? Nope - would not have been true in my situation and might not have been true in her situation.

Climb ohn, climb safe. Wally
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