Jeremy
Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 4, 2012 - 10:28am PT
|
So check this out...
Recently Paul and I were out in the Fisher Towers and got shut down on a new line due to blankness....what a frigging drag. So anyway...we have all this crap we carried out there to new route and camp. What are two Dudes to do? Carry everything back to the car with our heads hung low? HELL NO. We have all this crapola...might as well get some climbing in!
We try to think of routes we haven't done that we would want to do...hmmm...we also don't want to carry this crap all over the place so it has to be relatively close.
What to do?
I'll tell ya what to do...WORLD'S END BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
World's End is an old (1987) Jim Beyer route on the Titan about 50 feet to the right of the Sundevil Chimney. I remember seeing this thing when I was a Fishers n00b walking past it on the way to the Finger of Fate. Super steep, super thin,super hard and super bitchin! I had always wanted to do it and so did Paul. Nuff said.
LET'S DO THIS!
 Missing photo ID#243290
Beyer totally scored on this one. The route starts out on in a thin crack that shoots
into the sky. This thing is WAY overhanging for pretty much the whole deal.
The climb starts just above the tree in the picture below...you can see Sundevil to the left.
Missing photo ID#243291
Here is Paul getting some free climbing in on the first pitch...hard core Dude. BTW, for future suitors...the first pitch is about 190 feet! Pretty casual pitch...bring stoppers.
Missing photo ID#243292
The next pitch is more of the same. Super cool crack in perfect rock (for the Fishers). Paul even got some cams in! Kind of a crappy picture but it shows how steep it is.
Missing photo ID#243293
Soon the day turns to sh#t and a storm starts moving in. WTF? The flakes were HUGE. Luckily it was so overhanging that is was no big deal.
Missing photo ID#243294
Missing photo ID#243295
Missing photo ID#243296
We get all of our stuff to the top of the second pitch and are able to check out the third crux pitch...supposed to have many head placements and be pretty dicey. Unfortunately we have to bail and go back to work for The Man.
Missing photo ID#243297
Note the "fixed" copperhead in the bottom of the pic above.
We both end up spending nights in hotels on the way home due to the dangerous driving conditions (I did a 360 outside of Cortez). Geez Louise...
And before you know it...we are back! WOO HOO!!!!!! Forecast is supposed to be SPLITTER. Paul gets out there a day before me so he has everything sorted and the camp set up. I stroll up early in the morning and we slowly get our act together.
Missing photo ID#243300
Missing photo ID#243301
Missing photo ID#243303
As you can see...we are PUMPED!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After some coffee and lounging we head up the ropes to tackle the third crux pitch. Up till now, the route has been AWESOME...but it is on the third pitch that we start to see them...trenched heads. I am able to bypass a bunch (as well as some drilled hooks) with Peckers and those teeny little Pika beaks but I end up having to place 5 or so on this pitch. All the fixed ones came out in my fingers. Eventually I reach the belay with a bad taste in my mouth over the trenches...if it was me, I would have drilled bolts. Go figure. Pretty thin pitch with big whipper potential if you blew it...but not too bad. Low end A4? Sh#t,..what do I know.
Anyhoo...check it out.
Missing photo ID#243304
Missing photo ID#243305
The next morning we are back up on the ropes so Paul can bust a move on the fourth pitch. This is another cool/dicey pitch that has a fair amount of free climbing. Paul cruises it.
Missing photo ID#243306
We have one more pitch to do before World's End joins the Sundevil at the bivy ledge. Our plan is to bivy there so we can crank the final two pitches early in the morning and have enough time to hike all of our crap back and drive home. Plus...neither of us had ever bivied in the Fishers and the weather was supposed to be sweet! BIVY BABY!!!!!!!!!!
We get the next pitch done and soon we are chilling on the ledge having a beer and enjoying the view!!! Luckily we brought a stove so we have some chow and make sure to save enough water for coffee in the morning. DIG IT.
Missing photo ID#243307
Missing photo ID#243308
Missing photo ID#243309
Missing photo ID#243310
Missing photo ID#243313
Missing photo ID#243314
Soon we get ready to crash out...then it starts...f*#king wind...
The wind carries on all night...perfectly calm to rager...then calm again...not a cloud in the sky...what the...Eventually it gets light and we bust some moves on making coffee and chilling.
Missing photo ID#243315
Missing photo ID#243316
Missing photo ID#243317
We quickly cruise the last two pitches and we are on top!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WOO FRIGGING HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Missing photo ID#243319
Missing photo ID#243320
Great route despite the trenched heads!!! Eventually we make it down to terra firma after rapping the Sundevil. Super easy and fast...definitely better than rapping The Finger.
Despite getting shut down on our main objective, we still had an AWESOME TIME! I would definitely recommend the route if you are looking for other things to do on the Titan!
Well there you have it...and as my Grama always says....GET SOME BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jeremy Aslaksen
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
|
|
Nothing like a father and son team to warm the heart! Good job!
WOOO_HOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
Jeremy
Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2012 - 10:41am PT
|
HAHAHAHAHAHAAAA!!!!
WAY HOMO!
|
|
wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
|
|
Great trip report on a route that looks amazing. Perhaps the Beyer mystique takes a bit more of a hit.
|
|
Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
|
|
So basically a super-sweet A3 line with a shitty, dangerous pitch of trenched heads in the middle? Weak-sauce or is that Way Homo?
Nice (psyched) TR as usual.
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
|
|
"Well there you have it...and as my Grama always says....GET SOME BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"
Great line and great TR!
Thanks!
|
|
neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
|
|
Good stuff.
|
|
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
|
Mud grubbers.........(awesome job;.....)......kick butt...
|
|
David Wilson
climber
CA
|
|
great job. another scare fest under the belt. way to go !
|
|
rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
|
|
I am freaking green with envy.
work sucks for climbing.....
|
|
Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
|
|
Animal man,, just animal!
|
|
FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
|
|
WOOO HOOO! NICE WORK. VERY JEALOUS!
You shoulda just freed past those heads; looks like only 5.9 or so.
|
|
crunch
Social climber
CO
|
|
Great report and pics--muddy woohooooooo!
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
great TR and photos, thanks!
|
|
Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
Way, way cool!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Most entertaining! So do you guys take like jeweler's hammers up there?
I'd be afraid to use a big one. And how much Visine do you go through?
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
awesome TR!
was that an exposed bivy? looks like you hunkered down with belay jackets. Given the snowfall on Round 1, I'm guessing that wasn't a cozy night
rack?
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
WHOA!
That actually looked like good STONE!!!
WTF HAPPENED TO THE CHOSS BRO's????
Oh and pretty light, WHERE IS THE BEER?
So much pecker play.....figures!
Thanks dude.
WHOOOP!
|
|
KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
|
|
looks like only 5.9 or so.
They all do.
BTW, the last photo is reversed. Understandably, because if you climb in the
Fishers'-
You're gonna Die!
|
|
Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
|
|
Yeehaw! Gettin some as always- WOOHOOOO!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!