Bolting is OUT OF CONTROL!!!!

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 21 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 22, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
The Horror! When will it end?

jfailing

Trad climber
Lone Pine
Feb 22, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 22, 2012 - 02:54pm PT
DMT, I guess you've not been to Castle Rock in WA. Quite a number of trees
of that size or better were cut down BITD for better photo lines. Some big
names got some 'splainin' to do to the Karma Keeper.

But no glue-ons the last I checked.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Feb 22, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
Could you add a topo to clarify where the lines run? I sure want to visit that area!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 22, 2012 - 02:59pm PT
^^^ That's different! Them guys is jess lettin' a little daylight into the swamp.
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 22, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Thats just stupid.
Phil_B

Social climber
Hercules, CA
Feb 22, 2012 - 03:24pm PT
Looks to me those bolts are holding the rock in place. I'd guess it's next to a roadcut.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 22, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
PNW people are known to hate trees.

Dude, you don't understand. Up here, the trees are winning. We gotta fight them every chance we get.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 22, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
I know.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 22, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
Not just the PNW, I believe Harvey had a chainsaw out at Independence Pass BITD...
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 22, 2012 - 04:35pm PT
It also looks like Castle Rock, CA, thanks Mr. Morris!
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Feb 22, 2012 - 05:17pm PT
Times are tough when you want to do a little gym climbing and you have to
settle for rock instead.
Good to see that some folks can take the initiative!
coloradohigh

Trad climber
rocky mountain trench
Feb 22, 2012 - 07:16pm PT
holy hell, i mean ... the dang cliff is so perfect. it even comes with ropes!!
slabbo

Trad climber
fort garland, colo
Feb 22, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
Stevie Wonder Wall
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 22, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
Stevie Wonder? Try Helen Keller.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Here's another from the same place as the opening pic.


And another...


Halfway between Cliff and Reserve, NM off the less-traveled NM180 lies Catwalk National Recreation Trail. Built in the 1930's by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) the Catwalk National Recreation Trail is a hanging walkway following the path of an old pipeline that brought water down the Whitewater Canyon to the former mining town of Graham.
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Feb 22, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
those bolts in the first pic are holding the rock together
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
In places you could see physical reminders of previous attempts to secure pipelines through the canyon.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Feb 23, 2012 - 12:33am PT
Part of this is that for the young turks, bolts are no big deal. They are wicked strong from sport climbing. Sport climbing was widely reviled when it came around.

The NERVE of somebody putting in a route on rappel.

Now 5.14 is nothing. About a zillion climbers can do 5.14 now. Hayden Kennedy is a super strong sport climber, as well as an alpinist.

Stuff like the bitchfest over Growing Up on Half Dome is just not accepted by the old crowd. Even though it wasn't a bolt ladder and scouting from the top is nothing new. Tommy is working the Dawn Wall top down, figuring out the line, and placing bolts on rappel.

You can't bolt from a stance when a route overhangs 20 degrees, and almost all sport climbs have little trad pro. If Rifle was a trad area, there would be about a dozen crappy routes and nobody would even go there. Now it is the training ground of some wicked good climbers.

It took me a while to get used to rap bolting sport climbs. The debate is over. The young climbers won, and standards of difficulty blow the old guard out of the water.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2012 - 01:50am PT
Locker...

This quote:

In places you could see physical reminders of previous attempts to secure pipelines through the canyon.

accompanied the first picture.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 21 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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