Batso and Wizard's WOTEML Friend Gizmo- Who Is He?

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 20, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
Among the many items in my collection is this signed and unfortunately mounted copy of what I am assuming is the Life magazine article about the FA of the Wall Of The Early Morning Light.





Who is Gizmo? Anyone know?

Also, can anyone confirm the Life magazine source? I assume it is by the page size.
Norton

Social climber
the Wastelands
Feb 20, 2012 - 03:23pm PT
Steve, I would like to read that article.

Is it available online, or can you possibly post it for reading?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
Will do...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 20, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
WAREN HARDING FOR PRESIDENT! The second time would have been the charm.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 20, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
I've always found it pretty remarkable that Harding was 47 at the time of the ascent. How much older was he than Robbins, Pratt, Frost and those guys of the times?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
Jim- Revisit Batso's "Reflections of a Broken Down Rock Climber" in Ascent.

It wasn't a term of endearment...

Malemute- Thanks for the link and the missing page.

I am having Photobucket trouble at the moment so better text scans soon.
captain chaos

climber
Feb 20, 2012 - 05:46pm PT
Just a guess, but I think it may be Roger Derryberry...
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Feb 20, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
steve, cool article about some great men on a great route. this route has always been one of my favorites. i think robbins removed bolts on the first couple pitches before realizing the route was of very high quality nailing and then stopped removing the bolts. i'm pretty sure steve gerberding put those back in (early 90's ?) and sue and i did the ascent after that, really, really, good. heres a few pics
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
Nice shots Dan!

Derryberry= Gizmo?!?
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 20, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Steve,
My Wild Arsed Guess is also Roger Derryberry.
You can probably reach him directly. I'd also guess that he'll know who Gizmo is.
http://theprojectstudio.net/pages/contact.html
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 20, 2012 - 07:35pm PT
To get back to someone upthread regarding the ages of the principal climbers:

Pratt: born 3.5.1939
Robbins: born 2.1935
Frost: ? similar to RR?

Harding: 6.18.1924

Harding was about 11-15 years older than all his compatriots except of course Salathe himself. This age difference was quite significant in how socially everything played out. He was from an entirely different, older generation.

AND, Gizmo was a nickname for President Warren G. Harding. I don't know where that leads us however. Perhaps this was our Warren spoofing a relation to the President.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2012 - 11:25am PT
The plot thickens...
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 21, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
It also appears that the message is written by Caldwell, not Harding. Notice the pen color difference and where the sigs are in relationship to the message. I have sent Dean a message this morning to see if he can shed any Early Morning Light" on this.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2012 - 11:47am PT
Please ask Dean about the origin of the "Wizard" nickname.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 22, 2012 - 11:59am PT
Will do... he has not responded yet... might have to go bug him at the Farmers' Market!
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Feb 22, 2012 - 12:30pm PT
How much traffic does WOTEML get these days as a route onto itself? I'm not talking about Dawn Wall or where other routes share pitches.

TIA
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 22, 2012 - 03:06pm PT
That first shot, with the roofs, is spectacular Dan, Thanks!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
Gizmo Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
Yager Bump...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 10, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
...and Gizmo?

who he be??
Messages 1 - 20 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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