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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Get 'er done, Ladd!!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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CRANK ON RANGER!!!
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2012 - 10:24pm PT
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Son bump for evening first pagers...
...crack size--black to blue Alien
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Respect going out to you and your boy for getting after it together - thanks for sharing these.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nice Ladd!
That crack is THIN...so cool to see him getting some good fingers in that!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 25, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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What is the timing between the efforts on the OP and the successful try?
I see different shoes, and Ladd seems to be a different climber.
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Gene
climber
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Jan 25, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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Wonderful.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 25, 2012 - 03:16pm PT
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Holy Cow!
So cool, his technique improved tremendously through the course of videos (which was probably a few days!)
Different shoes and everything.
Thanks for the peak into the next generation!
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Ladd's never been too keen on the Sportiva Sharks--they're a very stiff shoe that is meant to fit snug and precise. I brought them specifically for him to see if shoes mattered...
I warmed them by the small fire we built on a rock flake to help soften them. His Mammut shoes are looser for growth (adjustable back band) and smear like fear, but don't hold small edges and crystals too well.
The time signatures are posted the next day after we went each time, so 2+ weeks difference--a big incentivisor may have been the reason for his motivation. We found a large Lego set that was half-price, which he has REALLY wanted, and I bought it so that he knew that his prize for the crack tri-fecta was within grasp :-)
edit: Less than 50 tries ( but not by many)...
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jan 25, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
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Only 2+ weeks!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 25, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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What are the other two cracks Kev?
EDIT: Is this one of em?
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
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That isn't one (anymore) because it's not the quite the challenge anymore. One is uphill from the A tlantis Crack in the Trailers, just up a bit from the Night Free Solo Dude Fall On Me boulder. It's pretty awkward as the crack slices an arete' at a steep angle.
The other two are roadside--the first is 50-100' N of Motor Runnin' and is an overhanging finger crack in a dihedral, maybe 10' tall; and the other is named in a that one guy's small photo guide to the Desert. It looks like a 12' less than vert boulder with 2 thin cracks on it--regular people can reach over the right crack for a V0- romp, or try to use the left seam to try and smear up it.
We're going in 5 minutes to feel out a couple...
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jan 25, 2012 - 04:36pm PT
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Nice!
I know which ones you're talking about. Go get it Ladd!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jan 25, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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i became an engineer by accident.
im a dirtbag and sufferer on purpose,
with purpose.
on my first project i would
keep my laborers and carpenters busy where they were most productive,
then i would 'dive into the trenches' and shake out a few tons
of steel embeds, torch a few anomoloies (much to the consternation of the union), and otherwise toil wherever the oportunity arose,
i'd come back to the job trailer with torch-soot all my brow,
wet concrete filling my boots,
bloody knuckles. and a huge-asse grin of accomplishment.
my manager would ask,
"is all your engineering done?"
he didn't even have to ask cause he knew it was.
then he'd turn me out loose again.
the crew would buy me tahoe beers thill i couldn't stand,
then the president would take me out to sushi,
then the architect would take me out on a yaht,
but most,
i love the trenches of toil.
every night,
i'd wander with my rucksack out into the woods and bivy.
my manager would ask for my hotel bills,
but he knew he didn't have to cause i is a woodsman and he knew it.
once though, the president of the company
had a talk with me regarding my inferior hygiene,
and perhaps it's offensiveness to clients.
i am was.
i might be never.
i love hate.
and rocks are my pillow.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
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Fine prose there, Norwegian--tfpu :-)
Ladd's 2nd day and 10-12 tries in on project climb #2...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
edit: He decided to try the Mammuts since it was colder today--hand warmers in his hooded parka helped, but he underdressed and wasn't feeling "it" as much today.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jan 25, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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Feet Ladd... Feeeet!!
Nice work!!
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