REVERSO 4 is coming out...

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Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic

laughingman

Mountain climber

Seattle WA

Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 20, 2011 - 12:23am PT

Weight: 59 grams

I wonder how Durable it will be at that weight?

Any opinions?

nature

climber

Aridzona for now Denver.... here I come...

Dec 20, 2011 - 12:27am PT

i'm so confused

http://www.allhandsfire.com/PETZL-REVERSO-BELAY-DEVICE-AND-DESCENDER

(actually, I'm not... really... just the folks at allhandsfire cleary are).

I'd like to check the 4. I'm happy with my 3, or 2, or whatever it is. It's not the original (I think that's the original in the above link - it sure wore out quickly).

it look pretty in the petzl-gold color. heh

Studly

Trad climber

Dec 20, 2011 - 01:15am PT

An ATC will set you free...

Big Mike

Trad climber

Dec 20, 2011 - 01:52am PT

look at the design. very similar to the other ones. my guess is probably so. when i had a reverso 1 and 2 i used to go through one every year.

I got my bd guide 2 seasons ago and it's still going strong and just barely showing any wear.

tom Carter

Social climber

Dec 20, 2011 - 02:17am PT

Is the "spine" in between the slots "elevated" to allow the biner flexibility so it feeds easier, like the BD Guide?

Rattlesnake Arch

Social climber

Home is where we park it

Dec 20, 2011 - 08:07am PT

Seems like a planned obsolescence strategy to me.

Realistically you don't get much advantage by shaving 20 grams off your belay device. Now take 20 grams off every biner on your rack and the savings adds up. A kilo off your rope weight is likewise significant.

To be really weight conscious, skip the fries with your Big Mac. Saves weight and money at the same time. I could save alot that way....

BTW I like my Reverso 3

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Dec 20, 2011 - 11:50am PT

Seen one in action and belayed/lowered with one a couple of times. Nice update to an already nice belay device.

Thumbs up.

philo

Trad climber

Somewhere halfway over the rainbow

Dec 20, 2011 - 11:56am PT

Here is my choice.

the Toucan from Simond.

jfs

Trad climber

Upper Leftish

Dec 20, 2011 - 12:01pm PT

Yup, I seem to go through maybe two or three belay devices a year as it is...even using a gri gri for a lot of my climbing. Not an area I really need to drop any weight in.

John Butler

Social climber

SLC, Utah

Dec 20, 2011 - 01:05pm PT

That would explain why Reverso 3s are on sale everywhere right now

;-)

laughingman

Mountain climber

Seattle WA

Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2011 - 01:36pm PT

Yup, I seem to go through maybe two or three belay devices a year as it is...even using a gri gri for a lot of my climbing. Not an area I really need to drop any weight in.

Find an old DMM v twin belay device (made from stainless steel) I find myself unable to mess up mine.

Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Dec 20, 2011 - 01:58pm PT

I created a page for the Petzl Reverso 4 at OutdoorGearLab. As soon as we get our hands on one, we will post a review. If you have any experience with the 4, please post it up!

crunch

Social climber

Dec 20, 2011 - 02:13pm PT

I bought a DMM steel belay device a couple years ago. Best belay/rappel device ever. It'll outlive me. I'd never choose to go back to soft aluminum. Feels no heavier than the aluminum ones. Doesn't leave all that black aluminum oxide stuff all over the rope and your hands.

But I see DMM have stopped making these. Doh....

the Fet

climber

Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La

Dec 20, 2011 - 03:01pm PT

I think belaying doesn't cause sharp grooves on the reverso, rappeling does. They seem to wear pretty even on both sides and I almost never belay on the one side of it.

If you extend the belay device 12" from your harness it will reduce the angle and the grooves.